MikeTheThinker

If you feel down the B pillar (between the front and rear doors) behind the driver's seat there should be a button at about thigh height which disables the "in cab" alarm pro tem. To use it press it once as the last thing before closing the door and locking the car. It should disable the internal sensors until the next unlock.

If you budget a bit above the cheapest - say 200 squid - and explicitly state it needs to talk with your Thrustmaster setup then I'd say that would be a good deal. N.B. Not all Windows 10 versions are created equal and have various inherent limits on networking depending on the version - hence the above caution.

Caught him in a good moment Not sure his response will help you much but here it is anyway: "On IOS? Not really. On Mac OS, yes, using Parallels or VMWare, but I'm not sure that it would actually work (i.e. you might be able to run the program, but if the calibration would work, I have no clue)"

I can't claim any IOS expertise (other than that it's a variant of Linux) but I understamnd there's a Windows emulator available. In the words of the old AA adverts "I know a man who can" so I'll drop him a line and see what he has to say. He's Stateside so could be a day or two before I get a response.

I'll be interested to follow this as it develops. It reminded me of Ewan McGregor's "Long Way Up" trip on electric Harleys - anyone managed to watch this yet? https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/long-way-up-tv-/

Excellent article, thanks! One of my tasks at my folks' place is to make sense of ten or so "project" bikes left here by he who shall remain nameless (not my dad) ...

Looks like I was wrong about the seats being handed. From the parts catalogue for a 2006 Octy HERE the seat foam (item 40) and cover (item 50) are ambidextrous (or should that be ambi-bumstrous?) so you may well be able to do a swap. You'll have to check further if the seat base and back covers are separate but at first look I believe they are. Now I'm off to bed!

The seat mouldings are handed but I don't know if the squabs and cloths are. I'll see if I can find part numbers for the foam base tomorrow. What year is your VRS?

I have a full set of VRS seats if that's of any interest?

Pardon me if you've already covered this but could there be two sources of noise which are confusing the other? A failing wheel bearing would produce a running hum or groan which is engine independent and only varies with roadspeed, whereas a worn belt would produce a noise which was engine speed dependent.

My archeological expedition/dig into my parents' home en route to getting it sold has arrived at the garage, wherein I have discovered two suitcases full of old Motor Sport magazines in near-perfect order. The question now is - what do I do with them? They're not really of interest to me or my friends locally and I'm reluctant to recycle them if someone can use them. Anyone have any (polite and anatomically possible) suggestions, please?

Managed to swap the numbers :( Fixed now. Ta for the heads-up.

According to Mr Haynes it's 40 Nm / 30 lbft for the Octy 2.

I suspect you'll find the bolts aren't 6-point Torx but 12-point XZN (also known as triple square) which are often used by VAG for larger or higher torque fasteners. Using a Torx bit _may_ remove an XZN bolt but will most likely chew up the head and make it unuseable. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Triple-square_(XZN) Amtech does a cheap set - OK if you don't abuse the bits and don't want to use them daily. Euro offers them for 9 squid but I'm sure a quick Google{tm} will provide other offers.

Can't find a separate part number for the circlip but you may be able to find one via Googling{tm}. I put the post below together to help identify Octy 2 wheels and parts so it should help you confirm your wheels and wheel cap: What model year is your car?

This centre cap (55mm dia)? Or this one (50mm)?

Can you be a bit more specific? Are you talking about wheel centre caps?

The parts diagram for a 2007 Octy underbody trims is HERE, but I can't make it match exactly to your piccy? As far as I can see the trims are mounted by through screws going to brackets welded to the car body and using speednuts.

The "roaring" noise sounds like air intake roar - is that what you're hearing?

Have you checked the lobes on the camshaft for wear?

Interesting juxtaposition of "Summer house" and "blanket of snow"

The dealer is trying a standard "shuffle the deck whilst your attention is elsewhere" move and hoping you'll bite once he's stacked the deck against you. Also FYI in case you weren't aware he will make a commission on a finance deal if he sells you one. I suggest you do the following - IF the bike is the one you want and the deal is acceptable: Email him spelling out your offer using lLanguage such as this: "I confirm I am interested in buying motorcycle XXX XXXX for £xxx in cash / transfer / on finance (specify the terms) subject to the following: - what exactly is included (MoT, tyres, luggage, service - and which type, anything else) - what conditions apply to the transaction (completion period, delivery etc,) Please can you confirm your agreement within 48 hours in writing (email is acceptable) as I have other alternatives to consider." If you're part-exing you need to be very careful about the agreed condition of your part-ex or he's likely to try to ding you on that as well.

Parts diagrams for 2007 Octy 2 bumper options for standard saloon & estate, VRS saloon and estate and Scout. The main bumper cover (item 1 plus variants) has a different part number root for saloon (1z5) and estate (1z9) which makes me think the parts are different. The covers for the estate versions (combi) only differ as far as I understand in terms of their fiddly bits (such as reflectors and the side trims on the Scout) and the presence or absence of parking sensor cutouts.

Nice to see an Octy (or Laura) so well looked after.

The parts diagram with part numbers for a RHD 2002 Octavia is HERE, which may help you to understand what is happening.