MCAMRA

‘Pinterest’ is your friend….it is a fantastic app for house renovation……or any other hobby. I have learnt so much from that site. Even railing up walls and all the things you can do. So many hacks and tricks to learn. It’s addictive Pics…these are just random I found. But there are many things you can do. * What I do is go to Leroy and ask them to laser cut a 2.5 x 1.20 MDF board into strips. So you have 12 strips of 0.10 x 2.50 MDf.

I have variations of all the tools. Apart from the cutter. Some better than others. To be honest using rails is a last resort for me. Although I used a lot last summer so I am getting the hang of it. In terms of joints, what you can do is batten board the bottom half of the plasterboard. So 10 cms mdf strip horizontal and 7 cms strips vertical over the joints Then you only have to do worry about making flush the top half of the joints. Then you have a chic wood trim look at the bottom and flat wall at the top. Looks great especially painted different colours. Some people batten board all the way up. 10 cms mdf strips over the joints. Its a neat trick because actually looks really nice. If you have a hand held defonceuse with a 45 degree bit, you can bevel mdf strip edges. Glue them side by side and you now have lambris. Da da. Another trick If the wall can be saved is to use 0.1 grade sand (point p) mixed with chaux. Slap it on with a glove and the when it is setting use a wet sponge to make the wall neat and flat like plaster. It drys just slightly textured which nicer that that flat placo look. Then you simply paint it. 8 sq metre wall will take 1 hr max. It is so quick to do. Cost 12 euros. A whole room…20-40 euros. Placo….200 euros ? I do that on that horrible crepi you find on all walls. Most people would glue or rail placo to hide it. You don’t need to unless you are hiding electrics or insulation. So to put it into context, you learn new tricks when you only have a Yeti at your disposal when renovating.

60 cm plaster plasterboard over 120 cms is just one more joint. But you can pay people to do the joint for you 🤔 I can do joints. Lol But also, for 1.20 plasterboard you will need to hire a van, buy a van or get it delivered at a cost. So I reckon 60cm’s is quite cost effective in a Yeti. Name me a Skoda (or any brand of small/medium car) that can put 2.5 x 0.6 plasterboard in it. Bet you cant 😀 Yours Wuss

The part fitted like a treat. Everything is back to normal. Boot opens, lights work, and the back windscreen wiper does its stuff. Again, thank you very much for your help.

You can easily put 2.5 x 0.6 plasterboard in a yeti. Not using the roof BTW. I have carried 6 sheets at a time. Take off the parcel shelf. Fold down half of the back seat. Take off the headrest from the front passenger seat and recline all the way back so it touches the back seat. Slide in plasterboard so that it rests on seats and on the dashboard. Protect dasboard and the front ends of the plasterboard. Et voila. You can easily put rails in it as well. The Yeti is a fantastic brico car. I have built many walls with it.

With my transporter van I check all the levels every 2 k kms. Water, oil, brake fluid etc. At the same time I top up the adblue until it is full. It that’s simple. Ps…don’t get adblu on your hands…apparently. Wear gloves.

I live in France and go skiing very often. Tyres…smaller the better in my opinion. Skis…try doing ‘la chasse neige’ in fat skis. You go backwards not forwards. I remember 20 years ago going up the chicanes of Alpe du Huez in an old Renault 5. As is snowed everyone was putting chains on and we just overtook the lot of them. I remember in the UK as a kid being taken to school by my dad in snow (proper snow) in a Vauxhall Chevette. Lol. Today, that school would be closed because the fat wheel tyre suv brigade can’t get out of their drives. Lol

When skiing…….I prefer narrow skis than wide skis anyday. Is it that the same principle as a tyre…? A smaller width tyre is better in the snow IMHO. Think of a saab 900 classic that is regarded as one of the best cars in snow. Very narrow tyres. But that might not work for everyone.

You have these in Redhill…..which I guess you have tried ? ? https://www.vdsperformance.co.uk/ or these.. https://www.tcgarage.com/ I would go for a more rural garage to be honest. Even if means driving further. I wish you all the luck in world to solve your problem. We have all been there and share your pain. Kindest.

I get your point…but I am guessing here that whole exercise is going to cost 2.5 - 4 k maybe if you go down the replacing the engine route. Then you are going to drive it around and thinking…..have they done this right ? What you really need is to find an age old wise mechanic that can give you an idea of what is going on. In my day there was one in every town and village. Now you just have garages that want the most expensive and easiest solution. The engine could be fine ! You need a mechanic to solve your problems.

You clearly like the car…..but I personally think this is a lost cause. Especially at the prices you are being quoted. I was checking prices on autotrader for a similar spec car to yours and they come out at about 5k in the UK. Just thinking out the box here, would it not be best to spend your dosh on a similar car and keep the one you have as a clone. Lets be honest, you will have a lot of spare parts when something goes wrong. Just a thought.

The choice of car whilst being blind in one eye must be very driver specific. I actually just googled it and there are no cars that stand out. Last November I hired in the UK a RHD. It was the first time I had driven a RHD in 20 years or so. I thought I would struggle but I had no problems whatsoever. My conclusion after a couple of days that it is far more comfortable and easier to drive a RHD than a LHD. It felt more natural. For me. And I have driven mostly (90%) LHD. Blame Napoleon.

One thing that has never been dicussed or mentioned by reviewers is that the Yeti is a very easy car to drive on the wrong side of the road. It is probably is the most ambidextrous car ever made. My yeti (living in France) is left hand drive and I find it such an easy car to drive in the UK. The visibility you have, the size of the mirrors etc makes it perfectly safe to the point that it does not make a difference. And you can see the potholes coming lol. Other left hand drive cars I have driven in the UK can be a handful. Especially in cities or joining busy duel carriageways. Yeti…no problems. I guess it is the same the other way around….driving a right hand drive Yeti in Europe must be very easy. The Troc or the skoda/seat equivalents do not have that same visibility. There you ago, the Yeti is a true European car.

Many many years ago I said on this forum that the Yeti would become a classic car. Most Yeti owning peeps at that time on this forum scoffed at my stupidity. Most of those I guess have since replaced their cars. Ha ha. The Yeti is still the best all round car ever invented. It can do everything. And it is still the best looking suv. We bought ours new in 2011 and it will stay with us until it dies.

I’m getting you. Electrical stuff is not my forte. In cars or houses. But…we all have a purpose in life. Just need to find mine. 😀 Thks for your help. Kindest.

Done and ordered. Thanks mate.

Thanks for everyone's help. Very much appreciated. Last question...how to I fix that ? Crimps ?

There is the break.

My apologies…the wiring on the left gaitor (as you look into the boot) resembles your picture. I can’t see no break in the wires…but I am guessing it somewhere. How do I find the break ?

That is way above my pay grade to be honest. The wires have not broken somewhere. There is something else causing this.

I live in France. There is a very expensive VAG garage two minutes from where I live. They service the car and are very good in what they do. Just hoping there is a quick fix to this before I spend money.

Thanks for the reply. I checked that as far as I could….and they seem fine. There are only two wires that go through the gaitor on each side. And besides, that would take out the the back lights. Which work fine. Something else is going here….and less expensively to fix….I hope.

Ok 1) Boot won’t open…just happened randomly at Lidl when trying to load my shopping. 2) Number plate lights don’t work….although just checking now… one bulb has gone. 3) Brake light (the one on top of the boot) don’t work now. I’m guessing all these gremlins are all connected (excuse the pun)….but what is it ? Can the blown number plate bulb cause all the problems ? Any help would be gladly received and hopefully prevent me from paying stupid money at some vag dealership. Kindest

I appreciate it is your last word. But if you have time….look … at this… https://www.lyon-france.net/2023/04/explications-zfe-lyon.html This is just for Lyon. Get it ? I can read it…so I get it ?…….ummmm no actually…..lol. You ask anyone in France what Crit Air means……and they will just shake their head. So how is Johney Foreigner supposed to know ? Will you get fined being a foreigner ?………no. Anyway it is 4O degrees outside today. Prefect time to visit France in Crit Air 1 car. Vivre la France.

That is from RAC website. The reality is different, Actually, Cit Air was introduced to only allow cars above a certain Crit air staus to enter a given city on high pollution days. Lets say Lyon, Greonble, Paris…etc. So if you are Crit Air 1-3 you are fine. Crappy cars…no good. Parisian range rover 4x4 sports are OK ?? Before, you would alternate on your number plate on high pollution days. Cars ending in an odd number for example could not enter. The next day it would be even. Now it is the Crit Air system . So yeah, unless you need a Crit Air to commute to work in a high pollution city, you don’t need one. You can still go skiing In France in a Yeti without a crit air sticker. I think. Nobody knows.