newbie69

Yep, I can't have the compass displayed in the centre on mine at all, selecting the Navigation page just brings up the map and I'm not aware of a way to change it. @JR RS @Gizmo are maybe aware of whether the full map on the VC is only possible with the Columbus instead of just the Amundsen?

No idea what changed to the 2021 models but there was a rant a while ago about the deletion of the sub/Canton system on the 2020 iV. I guess that's going to make a few people furious when they will assume their 2020 cars will get Canton like in the newer iV models, only to discover it's not the case. The special "sound system" badge though is quite ridiculous.

I just realized you must have tried what I wrote already because I essentially access it as the guy in the full length video above does. So, when you select Navigation via the "pages" button and then the thumb wheel, how does your VC look like? Please take a pic and post it here as i'm really curious about it. PS. I think I have a bad feeling about this as in: You can only have the map on the VC if you have the Columbus 9.2" system.... That would explain why I can't even get a compass as my "main page" when I select Navigation, (i can only have it as a side dial from customizing the views) but you have just the compass showing up instead of a map when selecting Navigation. Otherwise it's impossible to get it wrong I think.

So it's really rather simple. Press once the button on the steering wheel that shows something like pages and a "Back" button over them: This should open up the selection of screens ON the center of the VC, and then by scrolling down/up via the rotary knob you arrive to the Navigation screen (it's above Audio) and there you have it. You can then enter full screen Navi mode but pushing the View button on the steering wheel and scrolling through the various views. IF there's not a Navigation option when you press the "page-back" button then something is missing or not set up properly.

I'm going to the garage soon I'll check how you bring up the Navi on the VC then for you.

You can check whether it's there (or not) even if it's not mentioned in the options list by checking pics of the interior and hopefully finding one showing the lower part of the front doors. If it's got Canton there will be a visible "Canton" badge down there next to the speaker, like this: If you're looking at a 2020 iV they have a badge in that same spot but it says "Sound System" instead as they got the sub deleted and no Canton so just the badge being there is not enough! It must say "CANTON"

Exactly. VC only displays navigation when the car has built-in Navi, not the input from SmartLink connected devices (Android Auto, CarPlay), that is only displayed in the infotainment screen. If the Bolero does not feature a Navi then it's not possible.

I apologize in advance if I am coming out a bit rude (not my intention) but these choices are after thorough research and defined goals that you're after or just a few days of Google browsing? nothing wrong with the latter it's just that there's a hundred ways to go stage 3 and not all of them are ideal for everyone neither price nor performance wise. If you can't provide more details about what is your end goal for the car (how much power, for what sort of use, how much racing-daily driving, which conditions) we can't provide any useful advice. Reason I ask is because i have got a feeling this is a bit rushed: you had the wrong downpipe earlier, you wrote you're going stage 2 but in fact you're after a full out stage 3, then in the last item (the bigger turbo) you ask: "is this needed?" Personally I'd remove some items from your list and choose a few others differently, some of which would command a significantly cheaper price also, but as I said before going into details we'd need to hear more of where you want to end up with the car.

You don't need to change the turbo for Stage 2. A stage 2 280 should make anywhere from 380 to 420bhp depending on the supporting upgrades, if you want more then you are looking at bigger turbos plus (possibly) DSG upgrades. What sort of performance are you after? You mention both stage 2 and turbo upgrade so it's unclear. For a stage 2 I'd suggest a DSG remap too which costs as much as the ECU remap (or more when it comes from the premium DSG tuners) This is one of the platforms with most aftermarket solutions in reality, you just have to look at the Golf Mk7 R / Audi S3 8V items as those are usually a straight fit on the Superb too, it's just that the demand from Superb owners is much smaller than from Golf R / Audi S3 owners so in many cases manufacturers don't bother certifying them as Superb compatible even though they are. All "engine-bay" items such as Intakes, downpipes, intercoolers are compatible, The difference is on cat-back systems due to the greater length of the Superb. For intakes I'd recommend either a R600 which has a reasonable price and good gains or the free DIY intake modification (snow guard delete plus opening up of the front duct) which also provides some gains and is for free. For intercoolers, the Unitronic one seems to be topping individual testings (MK7 intercooler comparisons) and Wagner is a popular choice too but essentially most will work fine. The one in your link is a I/C + DP combo but whilst the I/C is ok for your car (fits both FWD and AWD variants) the DP is for the FWD 220 Superb so you don't want that. Exhaust wise Milltek is the most popular choice with a good price/performance ratio, they offer everything from just a downpipe all the way to a full turbo back system (downpipe with a choice of catalysts, resonators and mufflers) and are proven on many cars. I'd also say choose your tuner wisely, both for the ECU and DSG, especially because seemingly EVERYONE out there says they can tune these engines, but as usual not all remaps are the same.

Ah, an opportunity missed then 😛 Glad you're getting sorted at no cost still!

They are right that it is very unusual to have the actuator fail on these turbos, it's the core/shaft that usually goes on the IS38's that fail, some luck you got there. I assume it's out of warranty? If it is then it's the perfect excuse to go for a bigger and stronger turbo some companies also provide a discount when you send yours in. You don't have to go with a full out 500bhp setup, you could still keep everything else stock and just upgrade your turbo to one that will have similar characteristics as the stock IS38 but with reinforced internals. Coupled with a remap (of-course) should provide some very nice gains (close to 400bhp) on what would be essentially a stock car still. It doesn't sound as you are after more performance in particular but if you are to pay full price for the replacement I see no reason putting an OEM IS38 turbo back in which always has a small (but real) percentage of failing at any point.

What the others have said. If it doesn't fit in a Superb even with a tall driver, it won't fit anywhere. On the other hand, personally I'm against such too fancy "solutions" for the child seats. It's almost twice as expensive as other great (and just as safe) child seats from Britax-Romer or Maxi-Cosy just because of the extra luxury of spinning the seat 90deg towards you? (can't think of an instance where we ever said "if we could only rotate the child's seat!" with our 5y.o. Plus it will stop serving you much sooner than those seats with a limit of 4 years /18kg.

Right. Well even more impressive then, non-GPF R estate stage 1 being nearly neck and neck with a slightly heavier, GPF equipped Superb stage 1, just shows how much of a non-limitation the GPF's are until stage 2 levels. He's going stage 2 right after stage 1? Lol... What is it? Couple of months since he bought it? So much for "perfect from factory" performance Tbh I don't blame him, these engines are so tempting to tune, although the stage 2 apart from being the worst "value for money" mod is also the beginning of a slippery slope modding-wise, which is why i am in a continuous effort of talking myself out off one... However, I must admit I don't know If I would have succeeded as well if the stage 2 maps were available already for my DNUA engine as they are for the non-GPF one in Penguin's car so I shouldn't judge really (REVO keeps saying they're working on them... ) Stage 2 REVO is not free though (unless he got some special deal), it's got a 70% discount which still leaves something in the range of 150-200EUR to be paid, really annoying from REVO...

I just saw he went for REVO's Stage 1 and is going for TVS Stage 2+ this week, seems I provided him with some... inspiration His times are surprisingly close to mine with the same mods (3.80" 0-60mph, 9.5" 0-100mph), i though there would be more between them but i guess the weight difference is not that great between an R estate and the Sportline hatch, can't remember what's the official value weight on the R, mine showed 1625kg on the scale.

But who asked that question?

Gotcha, all clear now. These brackets seem pretty handy if they can be installed without too much hassle which I understand is the case. So basically you insert them between the rails and the floor and through the seat's bolt? I might have to look into them as the first one is now forward facing but we are moving the young one in such a car seat soon so it'll be rear-facing all over again for some years (we gave up around 3, 3.5 years old with the older one). One of the beauties of having a Superb is that you can select any child seat you prefer without front passenger room worries @Cookievts This is what me and some other people were referring to when arguing about the extra comfort/space of the Superb regarding child seats. See how close to the back of the front seat the child seat stands, and that's on a Superb which has easily 10cm (if not more) extra leg-room at the back compared to the Golf.

I didn't quite get what you were trying to fit, our Britax Multi-Tech II does not need any extra modifications for installation. (in our model) when it's installed rear-facing the child seat is secured by the car's rear seatbelt and the two loop belts (supplied) that and are meant to be tightened around the two side supports of the front car seat and connected on to the child seat's back clips (similar to standard seat-belts) In your picture, those back clips seem loose and why are they entering the seat's back pocket? (scrap that! It seemed really strange so I looked closer and the belts are going where they should be, there were just hidden by the angle of the shot!, it's only the extra loos bits that are going in the pocket...) Seems like a different installation process?

Incredible figures regarding leasing cost in the UK, but it clearly boils down to a much worse depreciation in your market for whatever reason. Out of interest, comparing to Sweden, starting prices are not that more expensive, a 2016 2.0 TDI Superb would have costed the equivalent of £30K so roughly 10-15% more expensive, however, such cars from 2016 and 30-60K miles today are sold for around £20-22K, almost 80% more expensive than in the UK (or 80% less depreciated) Both my last two cars I had the option of leasing them but I chose to buy them fully and when I calculated my loss upon resale it ended up being more economical than If I had leased them (in Sweden), unfortunately it's not a good option here yet for most cars. In fact, setting the price and age criteria the same as in your car, you can mostly find Fabias, not even Octavias in the second hand market. With such a bad depreciation it's clearly the smarter move for someone switching cars every 3 years, just for the lack of re-sale hassle alone. Comparing buying a 6.y.o. car vs. buying new is clearly irrelevant in this case?! Again, missing the point completely. The topic is not "where you'd best spend 14K in 3 years" but a very clear: "buying new: buy cash/loan or lease" and is comparing the costs between those two options. People buy new for lots of reasons and are aware of the extra cost this deliberate choice brings upon them (or at least they should be...)

Well... that's what I've been trying to say all along, no?

That sounded weird so I had a look and apparently you got the 1 colour out of the 23 available which they don't show in the pictures but... if you use the drop-down menu you'll find it there! what are the odds right?

Absolutely, that's the whole attraction of those badges really, the perfect colour matching background. As you can see on Superskoda, next to each emblem's name there is a 3-digit code in parentheses, (for Carbon Steel Grey it's: F7Y), this code is the official paint code Skoda uses too so it's exactly the same tone.

Yes it fits, no need to go full black with Monte Carlo emblems if you don't like them, (I didn't, they looked too aftermarket for my taste). Many people, myself included have installed the FRONT Superskoda emblem on the rear too and it fits fine, it's the same diameter and IF there is some difference in curvature it is impossible to tell by naked eye, FRONT emblem on front and rear looks 100% OEM, no idea why Superskoda differentiate them. If you take some care during removal and don't rush it there won't be any marks. Use a plastic prying tool and my advice is to put a soft cloth between the tool and the body of the car to avoid scratches. Heat up the original emblem, then work your way in a circular movement, getting closer to the center as you go. Continue to heat the emblem if it's getting hard to move towards the center. After removal, clean the glue residue with stuff like tar remover.

This is how well VW plays the marketing and brand segregation cards, assisted also by minor engineering choices because of-course they are in the position to do so. Starting with the names, "Golf R", R for... Racecar right? whereas what's a Superb Sportline?? If the same car was called a "Superb vRS" it would have sounded much more attractive to performance car buyers (probably resulting in some of them giving it more consideration than they should over the Golf and the Leon). Then continue with some trivial tuning like free up some more bhp for the Golf (and the S3) over the Superb (and the Leon), put some stiffer springs and purposefully induce farting on gear changes, and top it off with shooting the car on a racetrack for the brochure and... somehow your practical family car with some oomph is now a "petrolhead's car", or at least that's what they'd like people to believe...

Try this?

DSG7 is even smoother in daily driving than the DSG6 which is not bad at all already. On the other hand DSG7 has its slight quirks in manual mode (harsher gear-changes). Reliability should be just as good as the DSG6, it's based on the "heavy duty" DQ500 after all, of-course the DSG6 is more proven as it's been out for 7 years now but I have no complaints from my DSG7 and I'd pick it again over the DSG6 simply for its extra smoothness and better economy, you'll appreciate the 7th gear on the highway. In fact the short 6th gear of the DSG6 was my only slight complaint when driving the DSG6. We are of similar size as you guys and with that car seat I mentioned, the front seat would only just clear it for my wife. If we were to switch places though I wasn't fully comfortable for longer trips, same for any passenger any taller than me. There is definitely no farting with the 272 GPF, but i think if you're too keen on them you can get them back with a resonator delete (not my cup of tea) or upgraded exhaust, the remap might also play a role there, some introduce the up-shift farting on purpose. It's not something your catalyst enjoys though on the long term, just sayin...