newbie69

As I already wrote... V1 offer VAG wheel specs (fully compatible), decent weight, TUV certification and cost around 600EUR for a set of 18", hardly anything exotic about them.

Well I fully stand by that statement. I believe it was evident (or maybe not) that I was not comparing steel alloys vs OEMs but against some decent aftermarket options which are all significantly lighter. The Superb and all Skodas in general come with awfully heavy stock alloys (In particular 19" Supernovas on my 272 were 14.7kg...) so yes, if one cares about driving feel even a little bit, the improvement they can get from a set of decent, lighter aftermarket wheels is not to be ignored as they can get rid of several kg per wheel, and that's not something you can get by any steel wheel. Speaking of which, does anyone have any idea what those ID.3 18" or 19" steelies weigh? For the second part, I strongly oppose to cheap replicas in general so we agree there. I also don't consider the Ispiris (1340EUR for the 19x8.5) particularly expensive. One should be easily estimating at least 1200-1500 EUR for a quality 19" alloy set and that's actually a good price. As I said I consider wheels of almost equal importance as tires. Those 18" V1 I suggested above, coming in at 10.4kg costed 600EUR. Yes, they lack the attention to detail the Ispiris have, the finishing on the inside of the barrel and some transitions in some areas are not very refined but no-one would ever notice and all that is still perfectly acceptable I believe for a TUV certified wheel that will not break over the first pothole you drive over, especially when people buy alloys of unknown origin/quality on ebay for that price. AND they will considerably improve steering feel too as opposed to a set of steels (even if there was any acceptable design at 18" the OP is looking at)

Same item works across all MK3 Superbs

I guess quoting means you were replying to me? but I fail to see the relation between what I said and what you wrote. For sure cheap ebay replicas (as an example) are as you say but I did not advise going for them or any other random set that just looks good without some quality assurance. In my opinion alloys are a very important item of the car (often neglected) and one should ensure they come with specific load ratings, guaranties or other universal quality assurance stamps like TUV, VIA or JWL certification. Also, designing for a minimum strength that allows them to be a daily item, which is what all decent aftermarket alloy manufacturers do, does not have to compromise looks, that's why CAD and FEA tools are used in the process. Simply more material does not equal higher strength as every engineer would confirm, it's where it is placed that makes the difference. With that in mind, you can end up with a much lighter and strong enough alloy that noticeably improves driving feel (nothing new here) without putting your life at risk. My 19" Ispiri alloys (VIA and JWL certified with a 690kg load rating) didn't just improve the looks of the car (that can be subjective after all) but they certainly woke up the steering feel a lot by shoving a whooping 4.2kg of unsprung mass per wheel and the driving improvement was a big factor for deciding to ditch the OEM alloys. What is certain from my perspective, is that a steel wheel has no place on any even entry-level performance vehicle today, that is not particularly abused.

Makes sense, and I would expect on a left hand drive vehicle as mine that it's the thumb of the right hand that pushes the switch and the opposite "switch" to be static. Maybe it locks like that when it's removed and becomes operable again when it's installed on the gear lever? Looking closer at the pictures from the link above it seems as it might be the case as the in the first picture when it's off I think I see the right side of it sticking out while once in place it seems both sides are protruding equally, but the left one should be the actual switch (Russian car so left hand drive) I think I'll go ahead in the coming days and report back!

Ok the Kodiaq knob is here, however the "side switches" so to speak seem to have moved/shifted towards the right side and they seem locked in place there. I haven't had that type of DSG knob before so I don't know if both sides are meant to be pushed in when switching through the PRND positions and whether they should stay at the same distance (symmetrically) from the middle of the stick when in normal position. Here's what I mean, left side: Right side: It's visible the switch is pushed towards the right side and it won't move at it is, I wonder whether the guy that took it off messed up with it or if that's how it's supposed to be when removed, also because I read the guy in the Drive2 website had some issues when pressing the switch before installing which I am not very clear on what he meant and how fixed it in the end (says his friend did it but he didn't understand how...) And since that was a used part the return policy is rather strict which means I don't want to attempt an installation on something not in the right condition to begin with as that could end up voiding my return right. Ideas?

For the price you have set you might want to consider Wheelworld. They are a known mass wheel manufacturer in Germany whose wheels are also TUV certified (that's the important part compared to cheaper ebay replicas) with many designs and several sub-brands. I run the V2 from them in 18x8.5" for my winter set (and previously had their V1 too) and they have been fine https://v1-wheels.de/k1/Felgen They are also quite light at 10.5kg which improves the steering feel and turn-in of the car significantly. I would strongly advise going for a lighter alloy than the stock one and definitely not for steel wheels if you care about driving even a little bit.

Useful links however I prefer as OEM as possible so the knob from the Kodiaq with the same letter logo and identical text as the Superb suits me fine. I browsed a used parts website one hour ago and there were 3 such knobs from Kodiaqs in very good condition (essentially like new, at least from the pictures), cost: 100EUR so I ordered one and will be looking into fitting it in the coming weeks I will update with the results

You mean not every part is made to fit a Superb??? Outrageous... However I was just told from my dealership the "566 713 123 E EXY DSG 4x4 Black KODIAK" knob costs 230EUR and i may have to re-think about it, but then again my birthday is next month....

I plan on doing this on mine as the shape of the knob on the Superb is a cacophony, the Kodiaq one looks MUCH better, very "Audi style". However my understanding of Russian is zero and Translate doesn't do a great job. Maybe a stupid question but in your link, why does he need to take off the leather cover/boot since the new knob comes with its own boot?

It wasn't yesterday when I randomly checked up on my assists via the button on the steering wheel. Neither that nor the Rear Traffic Alert had the checkmark next to them so I re-enabled them, and then somehow I thought of trying the virtual pedal and it worked immediately. I never remember myself disabling those assists ( not a reason to do so anyway) so it must have taken place during the dealership visit. The weird thing is the dependency of the virtual pedal to either RTA or BSM being enabled for it to work, if my observation is correct and it wasn't just a huge coincidence of-course. I clearly recall the Virtual Pedal stopped working one day completely, there weren't any occasional hit n misses or that hesitation to pick up my foot movement, it just stopped immediately after having been working flawlessly for so far so I always felt a setting was messed up but couldn't find which one as "Easy Open" has been checked all the time. I should check whether RTA and BSM are still enabled today when I turn on again.

So something really weird has happened soon after I posted this. I realized by chance that the "Rear Traffic Alert" and "Blind Spot Monitor" assists were turned off without me remembering to have done so. Only explanation is this happened couple months ago when the car was dropped at the dealership briefly for another reason. I re-enabled them (I wonder how I didn't notice the Blind Spot being off all this time...), then gave another go to the Virtual Pedal and it worked like it was working since the beginning. I opened/closed it a few times and all worked at first try (a sign I hadn't forgotten the technique). Now I can't see why either the "Rear Traffic Alert" or "Blind Spot Monitor" assists would be a prerequisite for the Virtual Pedal to work but turning it off and trying my foot failed to open the boot! Re-enabled them, turned off and on it boot and Virtual Pedal was again working... Maybe it's a bug and these assists (probably just the Rear Traffic alert) need to be on on vehicles that come with them? Need to experiment some more but all i know is it is now working fully all the time as before after I enabled them, will keep an eye and report if it ceases again. Just for people who come across the same issue, check your assists are all ON! you never know...

I guess those are the minimum, free of charge features which I agree are nothing special. However for people who opt to get the "Care Connect - Remote Access" pack with Skoda there are some really useful features like: - "Door & Lights" showing the current status with the option of actually Locking or Unlocking the car via the app (I needed that once when I walked 10min to get to a car park only to realize the key was with my wife) - Activation and scheduling of the Webasto heater (invaluable for the winter but also good for the summer) - "Driving data" with all the info about previous journeys (distance, trip time, consumption) - Parking Position - Area notification (if the car moves outside of a predefined area you get an alert) I find them really useful especially due to the access from my smartphone so I bought a year's subscription for little less than 40EUR after the 1st free year was over: What I didn't renew was the "Infotainment Online" bit which is stuff like Online Traffic, POIS, Weather, News that never used even during my 1st free year of it as I get it much easier via my phone, seemed rather pointless especially since it needs an Internet Connection to work (can't be bothered with providing a hotspot from my phone all the time neither do I have the dedicated sim card for Internet access module. It seems it could be useful if you don't have a Smartphone and need/can bother to access all that via the car's infotainment

I couldn't care less starting a fight with you rest assured, in fact I don't think I directly offended you or made any statements regarding what you can do in an empty house or the rest of your intentions as you just did, and I won't do it now either. But when you are stating something that is far from the reality, it is normal to be corrected on it. So to prevent further derailing, this thread is about possible suspension improvements. And while every platform naturally has its limits, what is possible to be done on an MQB car like the Superb is already MUCH more than what people are looking for here. I appreciate you wouldn't know anything about it (and this is a mere fact rather than criticism) since you have not been in a position to quantify the issue, let alone try and remedy it but that's even more a reason to refrain from irrelevant generalizations that send out the wrong message about what are the solutions and don't help other members at all. You definitely don't need to radically change the strut design or worse the entire suspension to be able to control damping and rebound better on a Superb, that's hilarious. Shocks, springs, bushes, control arms, arbs, geometry all are readily available and all come before such radical changes like a "Superb bespoke suspension from scratch" and are probably an overkill for what people would like to achieve over the stock setup. Come to think about it, it was probably a poor interpretation from your side as to what people are complaining about in the first place, only to be further enhanced by the lack of hands-on experience that made you assume the problem was some orders of magnitude greater than it actually is, that's the only logical explanation.

Not changed anything on mine for two reasons: a) Downpipe I would be glad to upgrade but REVO does not offer yet a Stage 2 map for the 272 GPF engines. Will get a Milltek with HJS 200cell cat as soon as the maps are released. b) Cat-back is silly expensive in my eyes (or shall I say ears...) if you want to do it properly with an upgraded valved system, for the sound improvement it brings. No way I am paying 2K EUR for extra noise. There's cheaper options like a resonator delete but my experience says these approaches only make it worse for my taste so I've forgotten the idea all-together.

Ok now I know what you mean but personally I've never experienced this in the city, the speed is not enough to cause this (or maybe Swedish manhole covers are more forgiving? ) . I've only had that on the highway at 110-120km/h when going over a specific point on a road where there are metal bars installed across the road in connection to some road patches. However, even there, the effect is basically the same as almost every other car I have driven over the same spot as far as I can remember, not better not worse. Oh and definitely when I drive over that spot in Comfort or Normal it is worse than when driving in Sport, makes sense actually, and I imagine upgraded suspension would cure it even more (less bouncing) although it would transfer more vibrations to the steering wheel. But definitely not a behavior of the car that stands out as needing particular treatment, in my experience of-course, your mileage may vary.

When you say exhaust what do you mean specifically? Sound (cat-back) or performance (downpipe) or both? For the 280 there are several options and IF I'm not mistaken the items for the Golf R estate should be a direct fit for the Superb but double check with the supplier.

Never heard of or experienced bump-steer on the Superb till reading this post. How fast do you go over broken pavement or bad roads for this to become an issue? I have a tendency to slow down considerably when I'm driving over anything not an actual "road" (meaning half-decent tarmac) and I have never had an issue even after lowering which in theory can provocate additional bump-steer than stock on any car. Goes without saying that the car was aligned afterwards.

The arb upgrade has zero effect on the ride. You won't know it's there until you corner. Doing them at the same time makes sense from an installation economy point of view but you will not be able to appreciate how much each upgrade affected what and you will most probably (and unfairly!) attribute all of the improvement to the shocks. There's two things that will significantly change with those upgrades: - Body-roll and under-steer bias will be reduced and the rear end will be more active during cornering (that's the ARB) - Overall firmer response from the chassis, less squat/dive/roll, much better connection with the road (shocks) You're getting the same results no matter if you do them both or one at a time obviously, it's just for your own curiosity and evaluation of each upgrade that it would be preferable to do them separately, but I can also understand someone just wanting to improve the car overall without caring too much how this was done exactly. Please do report back on the B6 Damptronic when you get them. It's been the main upgrade many people have been waiting for to turn this into a truly great car.

Can we please stop discussing stuff which is not even accurate? The Golf R estate and the Superb are not on the same suspension and being based on the MQB is an infinitely good thing for owners in so many ways. Quite unfair to blame that for Skoda's decisions. Despite the shocks of a Superb and a Golf R sharing several common digits/letters in their part number (but not the entire part number) there is different DCC coding for the damping as the R (as anyone who has driven both would be able to confirm) is a clearly firmer car and there is not more than 50-70kg difference in weight between them depending on equipment. I have driven both the R and the R estate in several occasions, on one of them there were 3 people in the R estate and it was still not showing the same bounce tendency the Superb has. In fact if Skoda had fitted to the Superb the exact same suspension as the R estate we would probably not be having this discussion in the first place, it would have sufficed perfectly for most people. Instead they have clearly opted for a more compliant setup at the expense of body control, which at least is easily addressable.

So quick recap: You stated that the Superb essentially suffers from its MQB underpinnings and that the shock and spring modifications are not enough - Then when asked when/where/how this was proven true you replied you don't actually own (let alone have modified) the car. Thanks for the clarification. Unfortunately I can't say this is something one does not come across often on the internet today when asking for advice.

Wrong on so many levels it's impressive... This car wouldn't have been even possible if it wasn't based on the MQB platform to begin with. A car which let's not forget has received lots of praise from owners and reviewers repeatedly. Also, the MQB platform was not developed for the Golf exclusively, several bigger cars are built on it, some similarly sized to the Superb like the Arteon and the Passat, simply because the platform offers that sort of versatility. Now, apart from being able to offer a great powertrain and overall underpinnings, tech and equipment at a price which is probably half from the next real competitor in this segment (when stepping away from the MQB cars) the other great thing about it is the aftermarket upgrade and support on power, chassis, brakes, you name it. Skoda's decision (or shall I say obligation?) to tune it overly towards the comfort end and not even make a vRS version despite that it would have been entirely possible on this very same platform with little changes, has absolutely nothing to do with how good the MQB is and what capabilities it does offer. That statement is like saying living in a sunny place is basically bad because you can get sunburns if you decide to go out without sun-screen... But please do elaborate on this as I'm curious: To what did you you change your Superb's shocks and springs and what effect did it have exactly that left you un-satisfied? Also which variant do you drive? Because already owners that have upgraded their fixed rate shocks to Konis have reported that the car has become a joy to drive and I have personally found out that a Sportline DCC with just Eibachs and a rear arb is quite an improvement over stock that would be enough for most owners. Looking forward to hear your experiences.

Brave colour! Stands out for sure in that ocean of grey and silver (mine is grey lol). The best thing about this car apart from the great underpinnings is it's on a platform where everything is possible and off-the-shelf no matter if you plan on turning it into a drag weapon or a track car. PS. Re-reading my post above now and I realized "average" driver might have a negative meaning in English, In my native language the same term is used to refer to the statistical mean of some distribution and I was referring to exactly that, in terms of priorities and requirements, not about driving skills or anything like that!

FWD 150ps Diesel?? I'm sorry for your loss Shy! Hopefully one day you can go back in a AWD 280!

Oh and the thread regarding the availability of B6 Damptronic (full DCC retain) for the Superb: