newbie69

If actually needing to replace definitely go with Bilstein B4 DampTronic instead of OEM. It's an OEM-compatible damper that provides similar ride but twin-tube technology and much more reliable in general. Ebay shows it's available for £265.61 per unit, also have them installed at a reputable third-party garage instead of paying Skoda's labour prices. Like that you should end up several hundred £££ less than what Skoda quoted you and with better dampers.

Absolutely brakes are a great upgrade, especially after power and chassis mods that change the way you use the car, I just could not put them in any of the two categories, lol

Jb4 is removable although a bit of a pain the a$$ to do every time, I only did remove the unit and left some of the cables in when I still had it, no warranty issues, it's practically impossible to prove it was there as the ECU does not see (let alone store) the increased fueling and boost.

You mean the links in my signature? They are always there, but no worries! Maybe you find something useful there. My "necessary mods" for this car, with order of importance and value for money are: POWER: 1) Stage 1 2) Nothing... (because the next best mod is already far far less value for the money spent) 3) Downpipe & Stage 2 (this is not possible yet with most tuners as they don't offer a stage 2 map for these GPF cars but they say that they are working on it...) 4) Intake & Turbo inlet pipe 5) Intercooler 6) Burn money (meaning: Bigger Turbo kit with upgraded fuel pumps etc. etc. CHASSIS & Handling: 1) Rear anti-roll bar 2) Eibach springs or even better: KW V2 3) Wider, lightweight alloys (at most 10-11kg) 4) Nothing 5) Camber plates, Lower control arms, aluminium sub-frame 6) Remaining bushes?? (not even sure what is available) But seriously at this point, with a Superb, you'd better be taking it to the track every week-end, otherwise just stop already

Did he tell you the price? Asking only out of curiosity as personally I'd never be able to justify a few thousand EUR simply for more noise, there's much more important (to me) mods before that in my list. As for control arms, yes there exist upgraded ones that allow camber and caster improvement (used on the MQB Golf GTI/R) but it's probably one of the last items to upgrade, and still, only worth it in my opinion if you were tracking the car. I would start from a rear anti-roll bar, springs & shocks or coilovers as those can provide significant handling improvement before moving to items like camber plates and control arms. The more you mod, the less improvement you see and the more specialized the item is. The M5 is a very different car (obviously) so different mods have different impact and a different approach/mod order is probably needed so not a direct comparison really. You need to address the issues that are bigger on this platform that might not be as big or present at all in other platforms.

You can't look at ET independently without looking at rim width, together they impact how far out/in the wheel will sit. Which is why ideally you should use an online wheel calculator to quickly see the result you would get: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=235&aspect=40&diameter=19&wheelwidth=8.0&offset=44&width2=235&aspect2=40&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=37 In the link above I have used the stock tire and wheel size vs the new alloys I have put on mine (Ispiri FFP2 8.5x19 ET37). As you can read in the left side of the page, with that combo the wheel sits 13.4mm further outside and it fits perfectly fine, still inside the arches, nothing extreme, no rubbing etc. It doesn't even look like an aftermarket size. That's because the stock tracks of the Superb are ridiculously narrow. So roughly, for a 8.5J wheel ET could be as low as 35, For 9.0J you should go up to ET40 at least, in general any width & ET combo that pushes the wheels out as far as 15mm more still fits fine, after that you could be risking tire rubbing, so use that calculator above with that 15mm as your target value to evaluate your options. In terms of inch size 20" fit very well, but 21" even though fits in theory with a 235/35/20 tire being the closest to the stock wheel diameter it would be worryingly low profile and I would personally advise against it. Below is mine on the the 8.5x19 ET37 Ispiris (and Eiback Pro-Kit)

As Roscio said, make sure the sound is still bearable when you want it to be before splashing out the cash for a valved system like this. A couple of Youtube clips might seem exciting when you listen to them from your computer, but it can be quite different living with such a car on a daily basis, depending on your noise and comfort tolerance... Also, I am not aware of anyone "needing" to run a DSG cooler, especially for street use, and i've seen probably over a hundred tuned Golf R's, Cupras and S3's over the last 5 years running some serious torque, way above a JB4 or even a full stage 2 without issues in DSG cooling. The item says it's compatible with 7R and Cupra 5F which makes me think it means the DQ250 gearbox rather than the DQ381 in your car (maybe it's compatible with that too though). In any case, I doubt this DSG cooler has a good reason to be in the mod list of anyone not running a big turbo AND spending hours on the racetrack thrashing it, and even then, an upgraded oil management system like this: https://www.racingline.com/vwr13g700 is of much more importance. If you're starting to find your way around tuning, (or at least in this platform) that's fine, but my advice is make your research and cross-check thoroughly anything you come across, as there's plenty of items that might look cool but you won't ever really need for the type of driving you'd be doing, and don't hesitate to question stuff, this engine and gearbox have been around for a while so there's good knowledge and advice to be shared by people who've tuned their cars through various stages already, and welcome!

Nah I just removed them as I don't like any of the lettering so they are just waiting in my drawer till the day I do a clean-up and throw them away.

Plenty of Golf Mk7 owners that have done this, kits *should* be compatible with the Superb too I guess? https://www.killallwipers.com/product/vw-golf-mk6-mk7-flush-wiper-delete-kit/ I just ordered mine without a rear wiper from factory

30eur, jeez... I could send you mine for free if you'd like to spray them in black metallic and give it a go, you'd need some 3M tape too though I believe. PS. Just noticed you're in Australia and for some reason it's not in the listed of selectable destinations even though I got New Zealand for example

Who in their right mind reviews a Superb and calls the Sportline's suspension "firm" is beyond me. Even a Sportline with DCC in Sport which is the "firmer" option available is never crashy or tiring, it just controls the body better. That been said, on non-DCC cars, a shock upgrade to Koni Sports on stock springs has been reported to provide great results with a significantly less bouncy ride while remaining just as comfortable, and at quite reasonable cost.

Yeah 150 EUR might seem a bit pricey but then it's as if you've got your own dyno you can directly see the effect of any change/mod you do on the car plus where you're standing against other cars modded or stock. It's a very nice tool once you got it.

Power and torque curves look pretty good Absolute dyno figures are more of a lottery though and personally I'm much more interested in real world, slope corrected acceleration data from the likes of Dragy/P-gear/Racebox/Q-Starz, @lowey any chance of getting hold of such a device to measure your times?

My understanding was he is after some 3rd party app (no Skoda apps provide fault scans anyway) to get more detailed info about the fault he got and also being able to monitor engine and other data. In that case Torque / Torque Pro is a good option and pretty affordable. Then if the OP is after some adaptations and tuning OBDEleven would be an even better (but more expensive) choice.

Nearing 2 years with my MY19 (VC & Columbus) and haven't ever come across this issue. I wonder if the system/SW is any different on the MY2020....

The H&R has left everyone happy so far (just in case you guys missed that one)

Your engine is the gen3B unit with Budack cycle right? It seems there is a product available for those, but I don't know what "Beta" does exactly mean since they sell it along their normal product line: https://burgertuning.com/collections/volkswagen/products/group-8-jb4-gen3b-beta As I said, it's best to double-check with George.

Contact BMS and George who is the VAG development responsible: [email protected] I also suggest buying from BMS directly as you'll have lifetime support from their part.

LOL, nice try but those lines are actually the reflections of the pillars at the back (circled in red for you ) This was from the same day, earlier outside: And anyway, apart from the very organised pattern, it would impossible for these lines to be soot traces on a GPF car as everything is burned down there before it hits the tail-pipes (one of the few bonuses of GPFs), As a GPF car owner you should know your car better! The only thing accumulating there is dust but they are almost enitrely soot-free.

What options you've got when you've just washed it and spot an almost empty, closed parking?!

Front badge will be JUST FINE at the back. It fits exactly as it should in the badge pocket and if there really is a difference in curvature is almost impossible to tell by naked eye. Many of us have used the body colored badges which are also labeled "FRONT only" without any issues. But don't put full black! choose the one that matches the body colour of yours, much nicer http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Superb-III-original-Skoda-emblem-INT-version-FRONT

One detail: Are you just browsing a PDF on your phone? If that's the case I agree it's a PITA to view and organize content as desired. However, if you download the "MySkoda" app and add your VIN, it downloads the manual for your car (and it will always be the latest version without worrying about the dealer ordering it etc.) but even more important the content is well arranged for phone viewing, with a very well working Search function plus a Bookmark feature to save the content you use often or like to re-read. On a medium-sized phone with a good screen it's a breeze to use, 10x faster and more efficient than getting a manual out and trying to search for "view" for example. Even though my manual seems written ok, (Superb MY2019) I have left it at home permanently and have found everything I ever needed via that app.

If you buy access to erWin Skoda can you also access erWin VW at the same time or each needs its own subscription?

Was about to say the same thing, no need for messing with external apps, I believe even Windows 7 had it?

Changed the rear indicator bulbs to Philips X-tremeUltinon LED PY21W as per Gizmo's recommendations the other day. The indicator light is now brighter and does not fade in/out when flashing but for 50EUR maybe I expected a stronger effect? That's probably down to my own ignorance regarding lighting in general and how much of an upgrade is possible (lol) and not because of the bulbs themselves which seem like a quality item. On another note, while removing the light units, I noticed a little plastic shim on top of the light unit that came off and on the left light, a bit of that shim got broken too (I guess while removing? - they look quite fragile) Are these items critical for the light's positioning? They both seem to have got unglued so I didn't put them back in and the lights fit in position mostly from the two studs from the looks of it. However, on my left light I notice the the bumper below it now sticks out by 1-1.5mm, or maybe it was like that from factory and only now I noticed it? Hmm... I checked the two studs at the back and they are threaded and can be turned - Are they meant to provide regulation? Because I undid them slightly but when screwing the two Torx screws back, the light is forced into the same position, and there is still that offset between the light's edge and the bumper. The only way I can think of regulating the light's position would be by using a 1mm washer between the screw head and the hole to prevent it from fastening as deep. It's not too obvious but once I saw I keep thinking about it. Any ideas?