newbie69

Another good review about them Coil-over adjustment is great all-right but it makes sense to pay for it only if you need it. 99% would just need one good setting and to forget about them which is why I suggest shocks over coilovers for most occasions.

No links of reviews on the Superb but I have read several reviews about the B6 series over the years and they all boil down to the same conclusion: Firmer ride but not crashy, noticeably more controllable car and a more enjoyable drive overall. Haven't come across someone who wasn't happy with them really. They are tuned for that one step further of improvement, hence why they can be used with stock springs too, but they are not track-oriented to be overly punishing. Coilovers for me have two drawbacks for daily cars: a) They come with at least 30-40mm of lowering which is not something everybody is ok to sacrifice and b) You don't want to go cheap on them. I would only consider stuff like KW V2 and above which start from around 1000EUR as far as I remember. What most people are after though can be achieved by simply upgrading shocks at half that price with the milder series of Bilstein and Koni so why bother with something more complicated?

As @Roscio said above the extra 15-20 bhp would only make a difference if chasing acceleration figures or generally working the engine at high rpm, for the most part of daily part-throttle applications it will feel just as strong as higher stage 1's. It's clearly a conservative map all-right, that is not bad in itself, however 1.6bar is the default stage 1 peak boost almost every stage 1 2.0 TSI I've seen works at (and I've seen a few dozens over the last 4 years) mine from REVO does too (actually 1.58). And this is the typical max boost figure when flooring it from low rpm, it then gradually drops to ~1.2 near the rev limiter. It's not that other stronger stage 1 cars run at 1.8bar, that's excessive for cars on the stock downpipe anyway, but most probably that your tuner has tapered the boost quicker/to a lower figure as revs rise, again, for a safer operation I'm assuming. That is the way he decided to write the map and he could have his reasons, some bigger tuners have spent thousands of hours tuning vehciles around the world to be able to squeeze every last drop still withing the factory tolerances but they also charge a few hundred $ more so there's that too. At the end of the day does it matter? Only you know that but I'd say unless you race often or chase times don't even bother if the cars feels strong and healthy in the way it delivers power, that's more important.

Unfortunately this is a stock-for-stock replacement meaning he does not have to transplant the boot from one assembly to the other which apparently is the hardest part of fitting a Kodiaq knob and is where I also got stuck... Yeah because as I wrote above he removes and re-installs a new unit as a whole, not transferring any items from one to the other I haven;t managed to remove the boot from the stick with the 4hands 3 knives method in the original link but I did manage to damage the new knob (the external casing) when I pushed a screwdriver too hard against it from the inside So currently I have left it in a drawer and will have another final go in a few days time with a friend who likes to waste time on such stuff . If we don't succeed, I'll smash it with a hammer, at least that way I'll get some satisfaction, seriously one of the most frustrating little stupid things I;ve ever attempted, I'd take a 6hr suspension removal any day over this!

I knew it had to be wrong but I was just curious if that syntax was "OK" for some sort of slang I'm unaware of, sounds like it's just plain lack of proper English then? Which means there should be a way to customize this, I wonder if @SashaGrace knows anything about it? I don't remember any relevant menu entry...

English is not my mother language but is "Got all everything" even correct?? Mine just says "don't forget your mobile phone" I think...

Trying to understand where the misunderstanding lied, I believe "pitch" in the one external reference a couple of posts before, was used for "diametral pitch" (number of teeth per inch of the pitch circle diameter), as opposed to module which i assume is what you were referring to?

PS. Nevermind the last question, I saw you replied to this by editing your post which at least seems to make things clearer.

Not trying to be impolite but in 2020 you are asking about technology which is available since the late 90's early 00's in a way that implies doubting it really is what automotive manufacturers claim it is, all while theoretically being able to comprehend the terminology and concepts involved so it was a genuine question from my side, don't be too sensitive about it. So, what would you call this gearing then? Would you say it doesn't feature a variable ratio as (universally) claimed?

Well you must be missing some theory then, it is a commonly used technical solution on several brands and manufacturers, or maybe you are trying to call every automotive designer that claims they offer this a fraud? Hard to tell what this is all about really. Another link out of the many that come up regardin variable steering ratio: Steering Variable Gear Ratio Steering It would be good to have a linear, predictable steering response, but sometimes varying the steering ratio could enhance the driving experience. For example, when cruising on highway we want the steering to be "calmer" to enhance stability and ease of driving, so a slower ratio would be welcomed. In contrast, when turning into a tight corner a quicker steering ratio could speed up the response and reduce driver effort considerably. Variable gear ratio steering is the answer. It is able to vary the steering ratio according to speed and steering angle. In addition to the variable assistance of power steering, you have a fully variable steering. Honda VGR - Honda Accord (1997) Debuted on the Japanese market Accord in 1997, Honda's VGR (Variable Gear Ratio) was claimed to be the world's first electrical power steering featuring variable gear ratio function. As seen in the photo below, this is a simple, pure mechanical design implemented by means of a special steering rack. The teeth on the rack are closer together near the center and farther apart near the sides. This means it reacts slower on the straight ahead and quicker at larger steering angle. BTW, Mercedes uses the same means in its "Direct Steer" option.

"...Some cars have variable-ratio steering, which uses a rack-and-pinion gearset that has a different tooth pitch (number of teeth per inch) in the center than it has on the outside. This makes the car respond quickly when starting a turn (the rack is near the center), and also reduces effort near the wheel's turning limits."

Well... from VW's website:

KW DDC Some serious upgrade there, together with the arb I thick the handling result will be shocking (in a positive way) and together with the JB4 I bet you'll be looking for better brakes within the next months Can you PLEASE report back on your findings about the KW in particular??

Another good point as to why some cars might feel different than others: @TheBinarySheep does yours have the Progressive steering option or is it on the fixed one?

PS. Also Koni dampers ( think it was FSDs? ) would provide similar results, some have tried them on stock springs and were really praising them afterwards as having sorted all of the stock suspension's issues

From what I have read, I believe springs are not the best option to adress what you're after in a non-DCC car. The DCC suspension in Sport firms up nicely and can control the car even with the shorter suspension travel provided from a set of lowering springs under most occassions but the non-DCC one being softer will probably struggle. Another reason is that the Eibach Pro-Kit is hardly stiffer than stock, they are mostly designed for reducing the ride height so don't expect the effect of an uprated suspension at all. If I were you and wasn't worrying about looks I'd consider a set of Bilstein B6 dampers on the stock springs. No useability trade-off but a much improved body control. Otherwise if you're looking to remove some of the stock arch gap as well, B6 + Eibachs should work well together.

Ditch the stock alloys! Especially if they are 19", they weigh as much as an anchor... (14.7kg ) I switched to aftermarket 19" at 10.5kg and the steering came alive immediately. If you are fine with 18" you can get to 9kg easily which is a huge difference compared to stock. Just sayin... In my experience this was mostly a placebo effect due to probably the name of the VCDS Module the mod was in (Steering Response). I'm not aware of any software setting, at least of all the known ones that I've tried including "Audi throttle mod" etc. that would really change steering feel.

Are you kidding? I would love to still be looking into modifying my car like you are, at your age. Although I have a feeling there won't even be cars in the current form by then...

When speccing my MY19 back in 2018 (In Sweden) I remember asking my dealer about this option and he told me the driver's seat is electrically adjusted with 3 memory slots as standard so the option concerned solely the passenger's seat, for which I decided it was too expensive to justify electrical adjustability and I spent the money on other more appealing options. Of-course trim levels vary between countries but from what I read it sounds as this is your case too (driver has it as standard, passenger at an extra cost).

In that case I believe the part number should be the one meant for a MK7 Golf Estate FWD, i can't find the part number right now unfortunately. In theory, there are no H&R sway bars for the MK3 Superb officially as H&R hasn't bothered certifying them for our cars so people have simply gone with them based on the rear axle being identical between say a Golf R estate and a Superb AWD or Golf Estate FWD and a Superb FWD (saloon & estate). Also most shops only sell them as a front & rear package which makes it harder to locate the correct part number of only the rear one.

PS. I forgot the part where I still haven't figured the process of how to to remove the boots from the knobs with the 2 knives and 4 hands he describes... I think an intercooler install might be simpler than this

Ok so I went out just to get a "feel" for the installation. Removed the DSG boot and realized there's a metal clamp that keeps the knob assembly fixed on the gear stick. This need to be cut off apparently but nothing is mentioned about its replacement... Even if one gets the same VAG item clamp i believe it needs a particular type of pliers to be installed which I don't think I have. I wonder if a strong zip tie could be used instead although I don't like to improvize on this stuff too much. There is no mention of it at all in the installation post as far as I could tell Also, I had a look at the service manual for removing/installing the DSG handle and i believe I am in the situation described where the knob button has been already pushed in (and that's why I wrote it felt fixed and fully depressed a couple of posts above). According to the manual that could end up destroying stuff if attempted to be installed like that so a special tool is needed to push the button back out which *guess what* i also don't have, although I could come up with something. I believe the guy in the installation post resolved this via lots of patience and some fishing line? Sounds like that's what he refers to. Oh and the red plastic shaft shown in the installation being inside the knob assembly is not included in my replacement knob so i guess i need to transplant it from my current knob, before I fix the button out It doesn't seem a trivial installation at all to be honest...

I assumed he meant an AWD estate, if it's an FWD then yes the model number is different @Sandgroper what car is it?

This might come as a shock but different items are tested against vastly different criteria to get the TUV (or any other) certification, as such comparing footpumps or toys to car alloys is a bit of a stretch... The latter usually involve an evaluation of the manufacturer's premises, production tolerances, load testing etc. I don't think anybody would expect 600EUR will buy them the best alloy in the world, but Wheelworld GmbH (who own V1) is a rather known supplier and you can at least expect some decent performance over other cheap sets of unknown origin that lack any quality control but still are on sale for similar prices. The alloy market is quite a weird one with many "traps" so to speak in which price, unfortunately, doesn't always reflect the quality. All of the above said, I don't speak on behalf of any company here neither will I benefit if somebody chooses one brand or another... I merely suggest options that are worthy to be investigated further based on what I know and have experienced with them.