newbie69

First ride after the correct rear Eibachs were installed. With them and the thicker Audi pads car retains the OEM 1cm difference between front and rear but is overall 25mm lower than stock. Yeah I like it a lot now.

Just to add my recent experience with them: Ordered Skoda badges on the 1st of June, dispatched the same day from Czech rep, delivered to Sweden the 5th of June Maybe I was too lucky?

Yeap, all the same apart from Software Version being 0002 on mine, i wonder what that is about... Actually it's 1250EUR but maybe it's irrelevant as their SIII is rated for 700Nm and you are not going anywhere near those torque figures. In fact, their stage 2+ is rated for 600Nm which is i believe more than you currently make or even could make with some extra improvements and that one costs 799EUR (same as i got on mine). I wouldn't like to go above 600Nm anyway as you will be needing upgraded DSG clutches sooner or later. https://tvsengineering.com/en/performance/gearbox-software/#dsgTuning Did you pull the trigger on the KW DCC already?? Not sure i see the relation between the DSG map and the KW apart from relieving your pockets too much Yeah the wife comment is very clear in all languages

Yeah I know what you were referring to, what I meant was that via VCDS/OBDEleven you don't see that particular version you refer to (18.xx) but different formats of the box versions. Mine (from the ECU where I understood the issue lies according to your tuner) are: Hardware version: H13 Software number: 3G0906259J Software version: 0002 This was just to confirm whether we have the same versions, in which case you can claim that the auto up-shift can be maintained.

Do these documents help? I could not get a printout of the both the schematic and the list of part numbers on a single page as the latter is too long so i split it in two. list.pdf scheme.pdf

I think I'll wait to replace my stock ones if/when they're shot. I've read several aftermarket ones are noisy and it would annoy me for sure to hear new noises from the back going up and down the ramps on my garage and our neighborhood on a daily basis. I jacked the rear hubs up to the new, lowered ride height when wheels are on the car and it sits on the ground before tightening the bolts to remove some extra preload due to suspension extension and hopefully they will last longer than I'll keep the car for as was the case in the past, let's see. If they get shot I'll update this thread. Let us know how yours do after some miles though, if they're quiet I could consider them

Ideally the tuner you trust would be the best for both ECU and DSG but sometimes it's just not the case. In a sense, I prefer that everyone is an expert at their own field and not on everything, it just makes more sense in my eyes. Not saying it's impossible for someone to be both, and in many cases it is, but sometimes you just have to visit someone else if nothing else works out. Hopefully your tuner will be able to solve this for you. Maybe not a 1:1 comparison but do you go to the same place for the best pizza AND best pasta in town?? PS. My 272 was built January 2019. I pulled some S/W versions and data from OBDEleven out of curiosity but it doesn't state the version you refer to (any 18.xx version I mean). I am curious to see if they are the same so there could be a real difference of yours or not.

Ok, in that video it is clear something is not right in that run (or is every launch like this?) You can see the rpm hit 7000+ and instead of up-shifting to second gear, bounce back to ~6200, then up-shift at something like 6800. This is very similar to what I was getting when I had stock DSG and the JB4 on but it got resolved after the TVS map. No wonder you are seeing such 0-100 and 1/4 mile times, I'd say you are losing half a second right there. Try the 3000rpm launch though first, i think you will have better results. Mine is set at 3000 rpm and the process is super smooth, faster 0-30 than some 450-500bhp cars which makes me think there's a sweet point between rpm and available traction somewhere there, especially for cars which are mostly stock (no upgraded bushes/engine mounts etc.) 490bhp and 4500 rpm is brutal despite DSG software, you start looking at DSG clutch pack upgrades etc. Not optimal fuel, road and a hot day add a few tenths for sure. There's also some variation in every car's performance so to make sure you have the best picture you need to repeat a few times at optimal conditions (if you want to bother). Regarding the auto up-shifting I don't want to sound critical to you at all (quite the contrary), but to your tuner. He can't blame the gearbox for this as it's been shown that other DQ381 maps have overcome this. Yes it's a trickier gearbox, REVO hasn't even released a DQ381 map after almost 2 years of it being out, which means more time has to be spent on writing the DSG software than previous 'boxes but we have seen it can be done. My GTI Clubsport had the auto up-shift function disabled previously, the tuner who mapped that car could also not explain to me why this was deleted even though it should be on, and when I hit the limiter it was very unpleasant...

Don't brake so late then into a corner and you don't need any mods it seems Jokes aside, I find driving the Superb fast after the suspension upgrades is very do-able, but you need to drive it "slow", meaning brake early and stick to your line patiently until you hit the apex, then floor it. Its size/weight and the lack of a real diff or more advanced suspension in general mean there is no point in trying to force excessive speed out of it during corners, but with a point and go attitude it can now be impressively capable. I gave up on Comfort after the first couple of months even for the highway. Yes the "cloud feeling" going over bumps is fun but any sudden brake/acceleration/direction change and it spoiled the drive. I mean Normal is still very compliant (even with upgraded springs) so it's not as if you absolutely have to switch to Comfort to have a good ride as in more focused machinery. In fact it's Normal mode is is more comfortable than our 2015 Opel Corsa - why do they make those cars so stiff yet they roll so easily at the same time... Another thing I realized recently after the arb and the springs came on: For several months before those changes I had subconsciously settled with the fact the car is just a roomy family carrier, despite some straight line speed. The stock car's behavior, had slowly eliminated any desire to chase anything outside a straight line and even straight lines all-together at some point, probably because I knew what would follow if I did: Too much body roll, dive and squating the moment I would up or down the pace, and coming from much firmer and sportier cars it was something I found more and more unpleasant. I had bought the car with the hope it could also provide small doses of fun - maybe with the help of a few upgrades - but hadn't done anything to achieve this and it was killing this driving need slowly. I am sure I would be now looking at a second fun car for me alone if i hadn't proceeded with the modifications. But the arb and the springs upgrade have given it just the character and behaviour I expected from a large but sporty MQB car. Now i really look forward to find "driver's occasions" when I enter in it, in fact I modify some trips particularly for that reason. It's an element that was completely not present before and is now as much a strong point of the car as it's its space probably. If i get something done on the brakes also, I will be taking it to the local track for sure just for a fun comparison with my previous cars, it can definitely handle some fast driving now. Essentially, for someone like me, those suspension mods (and anything related that might follow) might just have extended my partnership with the car significantly, compared to if I didn't touch it at all. PS. Sure it's not an M4 as you say, but I would never consider an M4/M3 as our family driver at this period of our life anyway. It's much much better than the car I drove out of the dealer though and rather close to cars I've done many happy km's with so it's rather good!

UPDATE: Eibach have acknowledged their mistake on the PDF catalog and offered to send me the correct rear springs free of charge. According to them, the correct spring will sit around 10mm higher, which I believe will make the drop just perfect overall. In fact the rear is what gave me some second thoughts because as I measured recently after settling, it sat even 2-3mm lower than the front when unloaded which clearly didn't seem right. Will update when I receive and install the new rear springs with some photos and precise drop measurements.

I would be on the same boat if I were you. Your 0-100 and 1/4" mile times show that the launch is not the best. It doesn't make sense for me to be hitting 0-100 in 4.1" and 1/4" mile in 12.2" with just 390bhp. How does the car feel when launching? Is it a smooth process or? At which RPM is the Launch Control set at? I had said the best and most noticeable improvement on mine after the REVO + TVS combo was the gearbox behaviour, including launching. The DQ381 is a trickier gearbox than the DQ250 6-speed, that needs really good software to show its potential, otherwise especially with raised power it suffers from weird hiccups. Can you upload a 0-100 log too? It would be clear then to see which part of the launch you have issues with. The other reason is maybe the slightly later spool of the TTE535. On the 100-200 run with the launch out of the way of-course the situation improves and the car starts to show its real power, but still, with 480+ bhp peak I'd expect to see 8's I think. Would be interesting to weigh your car and know where you're at. You've already ditched the heavy stock wheels so you should be close to the 1625kg value I measured on mine with ligthweight 19's. Maybe your tuner has gone for a milder approach that peaks later? Could it be related to the fueling worries on the 272? I didn't get this: Does he mean that when you use Manual mode the auto up-shift has to be disabled and you can hit the limiter? If so, that's not the case with my TVS map: A few times when I wanted to manually change as late as possible it just auto up-shifted to the next gear after 7000 or so.

Depends on the use I would say. I would be willing to do this on my Golf GTI that saw more performance driving more often but a coilover (i guess that's what you refer to) would definitely sacrifice some comfort on the Superb. And I say this while not using Comfort mode ever like you say you occassionally do. Eibachs and the rear arb have completely changed the driving of the car for me and I would definitely recommend the combo if someone is ok with 25mm lower ride height. I would also claim that for 99% of the Superb owners, those upgrades will provide all the improvement they are after while retaining the damping adjustability when needed, I would happily provide a test-drive to anyone being close. The only asterisk is whether this improvement is partly down to a slightly firmer DCC setup on the Sportline than on the L&K, which means the results wouldn't be as satisfactory on the L&K and you'd be looking for more still? But at least as far as my preference and my car are concerned, at the current state upgrading dampers is not something I am considering at all.

Sportline alone doesn't tell much really, the suspension is still set up towards comfort. The DCC is where the difference is made. Sportline DCC in Sport mode is the firmest of all the available variants, then I believe L&K DCC in Sport comes second, then Sportline non-DCC, then the standard Superb.

Software reset? I wonder if there is something like that available via VCDS... I will try my foot luck again today just in case, i'd really like to avoid taking it in for something like this.

I know but it's 18 months of ownership and after the first week i got the hang of it and have never failed to operate it successfully ever since. The one or two occasions that I did, I succeeded after only a second try. This has been going on for the last two weeks every time I try it the same old way that had been working so far so I'm thinking it must be something else. Unless, my rare usage of the system (and the car) nowadays made me forget the exact way I need to move my feet?! Hmm... I need to go out and vary my movements to make sure it's not something as dumb as that. Also, I have confirmed "Easy Open" is checked in the menu.

It's a couple of weeks I think (not sure as I don't use the car daily lately) that moving my foot below the virtual pedal sensor has stopped opening or closing the boot. This had happened once in the winter when the car was quite dirty and muddy but now it's been washed a few times since I first noticed and it still doesn't work. Ideas what to look for before taking it in? (if i can even bother)

Of-course he would say that, he just took 3 seconds to put your car model in the catalog and repeat to you what the page was showing, really helpful of them So the Golf R variant shocks are the same for B4 DampTronic and B8 standard , but somehow not for B6 Damptronic, lol... That web page is so accurate, or shall I say complete, that it only mentions a front B4 model for the Superb, so you can't have the rears if you go for B4 Damtronic I bet someone has been really lazy with the Skoda/Superb entries. I wouldn't think you can resolve this by a quick chat on their page, you would need to involve either some dealer with access to their technical department or contact Bilstein yourself and explain why they share shock numbers in all other series but B6 Damptronic, and also why their site does not list a rear B4 Damptronic but only a front...

That's not true, at least not on my MY19: You have to physically place your hand inside the door handle and only then it will unlock. Simply walking close to it or even standing next to it won't do it (for the better imo).

It really was very high on my list until last Saturday when I put the Eibachs on. Frankly, a 272 Sportline with Eibachs and a rear arb upgrade, in Sport mode feels almost like a GTI. I got all the extra control and response I could ask for so I just can't justify such an expense (they are rather pricey at around 1300EUR) at the moment. But if/when the stock shocks go, I am definitely replacing them with B6 Damptronic, i'd like to retain DCC modes and they are even cheaper than OEM shocks so, a win-win. That's after I verify compatibility with the Golf R variant models via Bilstein.

B8 yes you need a DCC delete kit, i was referring to it simply as to where it stands in the Bilstein series in terms of firmness and improvent with respect to the other models. But B6 no, there exists a B6 DampTronic series which means DCC compatibility. This firms up the ride nicely while retaining some levels of comfort in Comfort mode (although it's noticeably firmer). Imo this is the ideal option for our cars when looking for a clearly sportier drive that is still bearable. B8s are becoming too much for daily use from my experience https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/collections/bilstein-b6-damptronic The problem is verifying part numbers for the B6 DampTronic for a Superb. It's weird because if I remember correctly, the part numbers given from Bilstein between a Golf R variant and a Superb are the same for the B4 series but for the B6 there is no Superb compatibility suddenly. It sounds as they didn't bother confirming the B6 Damptronic for the Superb due to much lower interest compared to the Golf market, I can't imagine why it shares the R variant shocks on the B4 but not on the B6...

As it's a direct replacement I don't think it will need coding, but for a certain answer a Bilstein dealer would be better to answer this. Why would you consider B4 for yours? They are an OEM replacement item, meaning they provide the same characteristics as the OEM item, I thought you were looking for some improvement? B6 DampTronic is probably the sweet spot for a daily driver Superb. Firmer with more control tham OEM but nothing too stiff, also compatible with stock springs. Then there's the B8 but those are set up for performance driving and for use with lowering springs, and they would definitely compromise comfort to some extent. That's how the Bilstein series are designed in general.

I doubt it would be undriveable in any case. Even when people put non-DCC shocks to DCC cars the car drives normal but you get dash errors. My thread keeps getting referred to but to no use for the OP . @Roscio: He is not deleting the DCC, he is putting B4's in that are a OEM replacement item, supporting DCC. Is that right F1Sparks?

But I only replaced springs on a DCC car, those don't interfere with DCC anyway. The OP is asking about a possible damper replacement. B4 should be a direct replacement item but that's the theory. No idea if they actually require some coding or not...

============= IMPORTANT UPDATE =============== I was investigating further the rear drop, as I was puzzled as to how it ended up being at the exact same height as the front even though I used the 6.5mm thicker rear Audi pads. I mean yes, the even drop front and rear on mine looks very good and sporty but what about people that just install the springs without Audi pads? They shouldn't end up with a whole 6.5mm lower rear end surely?? Turns out I was half-screwed by Eibachs own catalog, well to some extent. For buying my springs I used the "Eibach product catalog 2017" which was available from one of their websites until last year when I also downloaded it, I attach it in this message. There the kit number for 2.0 4x4 is given as: E10-85-042-03-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front, F11-15-007-04-HA rear. However going on their online part search: http://web2.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?10=60730C6FF832499EA965D097B657382D279004&14=4&12=100 the kit showing up now for both 280 and 272 is a different one: E10-79-012-04-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front (same as in the PDF and the one i put on) but F11-79-008-01-HA rear! Weirdly enough, my F11-15-007-04-HA rears have somehow lost 30kg from their old rating. In the PDF they are rated for 1250kg but on-line they show up as 1220kg if one searches for that part number. So all in all, and according to the on-line catalog right now (who knows if and when that changes), I have installed rear springs with slightly lower rear axle load rating (1220kg vs 1253kg). Is that enough to cause a greater drop, and in particular this 6.5mm that I got back from the Audi pads? I happened to replace the pads with thicker ones so the car sits nice, but I would probably have gained another 5-6mm rear with the correct rear ones. I could just buy two updated rears and install them but not sure if it's worth the hassle considering I don't tow or generally go anywhere near the max load, and the car sits evenly front and back... I also contacted Eibach explaining the situation but I doubt they will look into it. In any case, anyone going with Eibachs double check the correct kit for your car via their online parts catalog as any other consolidated documentation you might have already might be out of date. eibach-produktkatalog_2.pdf

I never believed the Sportline would have a different shock (hardware wise) from the L&K and the pics show that they don't, it's the same 3Q0413031AK damper used. Considering the DCC's capabilities though and how much it's able to vary compression and rebound settings between its Comfort, Normal and Sport modes already, it wouldn't come as a surprise to find out that it's set up with slightly firmer settings in the Sportline, at least in Sport mode. Thinking about it it doesn't make sense not to, considering the car comes with different springs, so a slight adjustment of the damping to match those would seem reasonable. Still, this is all guessing. I wonder whether there could be any module coding comparison, i'm no VCDS expert though...