newbie69

Just to wrap this up, there seemed to be nothing wrong with the sensors or wiring and after a limbo of like 3-4 weeks, the system magically became fully operational again a few days ago. It's funny but I actually needed the feature of virtual pedal opening twice during that time while stupidly opting to carry a few boxes of groceries on my hands instead of taking a trolley (thanks COVID19 OCD...) and ended up cursing a lot when it wasn't working. It works now though, let's see if it comes back...

Lol, you're asking the wrong person I mean, if we're not here for writing our own tutorials on every work we do on the car, what are we doing?? I'd love one yes!

The Haldex job is on my to-do list next spring when it will be 2 years old although i'll probably have done only just around 20K km in total. Any tips about the process or guide that you used? i've pinned a few posts from MK7 forums but usually more tips never hurt on these jobs.

It's really annoying the "we only sell them as a pair" thing from some shops but eventually you should be able to find one that is happy to sell you just the rear one. Worst case I can buy the H&R from the local shop I got mine and ship it to you if you really can't find any other solution, turns out for 2600SEK + 500SEK (shipping to Australia) the total cost is ~ 492 AUD, no idea how that compares to the prices you get there though just being imaginative... I see that officially neither Whiteline nor SuperPro offer any item for the Superb but given that the car shares the rear suspension fully with the Golf R, the rear arb for that car fits our vehicles (both estate and hatch) just fine, same as with H&R. Here's Whiteline's model: Whiteline 24mm 2 way MK7 Golf R And here's SuperPro's model for the Golf R: SuperPro rear arb 24mm 2way MK7 Golf R Incidentally they are both 24mm and 2 way adjustable, identical design, the H&R is 25mm fixed. -------------- I have no experience with towing and how it can be affected from lowering but but there are temporary options that can be installed to raise the back especially for towing (coil spring buffers) or more permanently (Audi's thicker top mounts). I've used the latter ones when I lowered mine on Eibachs just to maintain the stock, slightly raised rear stance to not compromise loading as with the Eibachs the rear drops around 10mm more than the front which i guess is something you want to avoid if loading the car often or towing. Maybe have a look at that thread too, especially on how the end result looks like with and without the thicker top mounts:

Nothing to do with Sweden in particular, any modification on the engine be it a piggyback or remap is a valid reason to reject warranty of engine related claims worldwide. Meaning that If you ever had a big warranty claim and went to a dealership with the JB4 still connected to the car then you'd most surely be denied. The thing with the JB4 is that since it is not modifying any actual software and the ECU sensors still only see stock values of boost, fueling etc. it is essentially impossible to trace after removal. I don't know yet of any warranty claim having been rejected due to a discovery of a JB4 previously on the car. I do know plenty cases of warranty rejection due to being flashed (remap) though. Not really. What that merely means is that the remap process is carried out by connecting a cable to the OBD port, as opposed to removing and opening up the actual ECU unit as in older vehicles, it;s still 100% traceable though as it triggers an inherent flash counter.

I found it too much of a luxury to pay an extra $100+ merely for the capabiltiy to be able to move my phone around freely when connected. The BMS data cable provides the same functionality and you can buy a USB adapter and an Android app for 15$ to connect to the unit and adjust it. More importantly, unless you plan on fiddling with custom map settings all the time, it's going to be a plug n forget thing so no need to worry about the easiest or fastest connection option imo. Of-course the BT kit is an extra asset that you could get some of your money back on. The data cable less so and if you purchase the Android/iOS control app they are tied to your account and are not transferrable, but it's still quite a cheaper option (cable+adapter+app)

Cheers Shy, it's great that you like them but they confirm my suspicion that the Superb arches make the 235/35/19 look rather on the small side. ...and now i feel a little bit better that I sold a little used set of the absolutely best tire I've ever had (Michelin PS4S) in 235/35 when I switched to the Superb, as I couldn't have stood their look on this car

Life is short right? I mean I am being honest because what's best for my goals and requirements might not be the best for every other owner so I need to make recommendations as objectively as possible, not simply to defend my own choices! You don't get that often when asking around for advice and it's annoying. I believe their low torque file is meant mainly for the manual transmission cars which suffer from clutch slippage even on stage 1 (not even an option on the Superb though) and the "high torque" is essentially what every other tuner runs so he should be fine with it. Imo one should run these engines on 98 even stock, no discussion when mapped be it high, low or lower torque. Yes they will work on 95 but when you break down all factors involved, 95 is a false economy. The free stage 2 remap from APR when buying their downpipe is a very nice condition actually. REVO merely offer 70% discount, which on a say 700EUR worth of remap, leaves a 210EUR rest to be paid which annoys the heck out of me. You are a returning customer paying full price for their hardware so adjusting the software should be free.

The reasonable choice in your case, as in: someone who is not racing their car and is not worrying over every last drop of performance, would the JB4. For the same reason, you don't really need the Bluetooth kit but rather just the data cable, bringing the whole cost down by at least 150AUD. Unless you want to fiddle with settings and custom maps (sounds like you don't) you'll be fitting it and forgetting about it, apart from trying Map 1 and Map 2 and settling with one. I had it on my 272 for over a year and it was faultless, great driveability and very strong gains. Switching to a full remap MIGHT provide more gains although that's not a given in all cases, especially with the APR low torque map (why go low torque on a DSG? defeats the whole purpose of a remap vs a JB4), but it does come with a warranty void in case you ever need it. It's a remote possibility but it's still not 0. Driveability will not be that much different because the JB4 does a much better job at this than the rest of tuning boxes, to the point that is very comparable to a remap. I had a JB4 on my Superb 272 for over a year (and another one on my GTI before the 272), and this spring i switched to REVO's stage 1. I made that choice for the extra gains that were shown between REVO's maps and the JB4 on this particular GPF engine of the 272, which proved to be a 1.2" difference in the 100-200kmh sprint, and due to the fact i was getting the DSG7 mapped too so i was anyway going to give up my powertrain warranty (partially) and at that point, it wouldn't matter so much if i kept the ECU un-touched. Am I happy? Yes I am, as I saw a further improvement in power (small but noticeable) and more importantly i consciously wanted to satisfy my curiosity and take the risk (that's the biggest aspect probably). Did the extra improvement justify the cost and the risk? Probably not, it's better but it's not a night and day difference by any means. Would I recommend the switch to a remap from JB4 to someone else? Probably not unless I knew I was speaking to someone wanting everything the car could give him. Also, your cost comparison should be adjusted like this: An APR map is 1300 that are never coming back in your pocket. The JB4 without the BT kit is around 800 but at any point that you decide to sell it or change the car you can easily get back 60-70% of the JB4's price as they hold value exceptionally well, all in all a cost of a mere 300 probably. I have sold both of my JB4s for 70% of the price I paid for them. So it's nowhere near as close an expense as it might originally seem. An important factor to consider if you don't have long-term plans for the car. To close with this: I am not against remaps, in fact i believe a good remap from a reputable and tested company still does a better job in making the extra power than any box. It's just that the JB4 has managed to do such a fine job, while at the same time offering the warranty and resale features which not everyone can ignore easily for the sake of some more bhp and a some less tenths of a second.

I share the exact same views as your mechanic. There's too much (unjustified) scaremongering with end-links, maybe it carries over from other platforms or other much more extreme lowerings. They're not a necessity on these cars at all especially with mild lowering springs as Eibachs. Mine has dropped 25mm equally because I used the Audi top mounts (check the thread for results and effect of those), i don't classify this as a lot of lowering. In general i'm all for upgrading but it annoys me when the upgrade can cause more headaches than it solves, plastic is not always bad

Yeap, just as fine as the day it went on the car. Granted I have put barely 2k km since then due to current conditions but nothing unusual has shown up. If you don't plan on lowering don't bother with the end-links, they might introduce more issues than they solve. I've even lowered mine after the arb and kept the stock end-links and no issues yet (although this doesn't say much with such low miles still). If/when they go, they will be replaced as needed, it's an easy DIY job anyway. Ideally we'd need to know stiffness of those vs the H&R to really make a fact-based recommendation, without those it's more like "bigger is better" feeling that most are relying on... Both should be an upgrade though.

Depends if you're looking to improve handling at the same time. With DCC you're limited in options unless you go for DCC delete and then are able to fit any shock out there. Bilstein make B4 DCC as a OEM replacement so i'd at least consider those. The sportier model the B6 is a weird case. There's a B6 DCC available for the Golf but weirdly not for the Superb although i;m convinced the Golf model fits the Superb too. They share the B4 DCC model so no reason why the B6 DCC is not common, but you'd need Bilstein to look into this and confirm. In any case even for an as stock behaviour i'd go with Bilstein B4 DCC over the stock ones.

It's more complicated because it's also a more sophisticated option with better control over the ECU than the rest of the tuning boxes, resulting in a more OEM power delivery with better boost and AFR curves, which is why it's considered the top of tuning boxes, comparable even to a full remap. It's also got more features than just providing extra bhp, (remote logging, boost by gear, meth controller, custom map setup), a huge client database all over the world that has allowed them to idnetify engine/gearbox issues before even some tuners themselves, and a great support from BMS that's really knowledgeable on these engines. I know people will say "i had my DTUK/Racechip/whatever box on for years and it was great" which in most cases translates to "i installed it - car felt faster - it hasn't blown up" but i wonder how many are really aware of how these ECUs work on making power, let alone having logged their cars to verify data looks safe and within factory tolerances. And yes even a Jb4 doesn't have the full access to operating parameters a remap has but it's the closest thing to it in the form of a removable box.

I'm sure, JB4 does a great job, very comparable in some cases with full remaps, you should be close to 300ps with that setup.

Looking great!

Yeah I figured you'd have by now! Your post was too long ago for someone to wait when he's got a tuning option waiting I actually didn't know about this sub-forum, most would post their questions to the related model sub-forum to get more attention, what car did you install it on?

I agree it doesn't look very neat, let alone "OEM" but on the POSItive (pun intended) side I had no issues with mine on two different units for a total of 3 years. Is it looks or something else that worries you? Maybe George at BMS has a suggestion of how to alternatively connect it to the AFR wire?

It definitely won't start to oversteer left and right I can guarantee that, just a nicer, more neutral behaviour with the rear end actually taking part in the cornering. That been said, on extreme conditions (pushing hard on a tight corner and average road surface) it could occasionally catch you out as it will be more aggressive so you would need to get familiar with the car again after its install, nothing too worrying though for probably 99% of the occasions.

The rear is a must on these cars due to their stock setup and it will be a very noticeable improvement with zero effect on the ride. I can't see the need to do the front unless chasing lap times or similar, the car will become too stiff and will retain the understeer bias which ideally you'd like to tone down by going for just the rear arb. There's a link to the rear arb thread with more info on this below in my signature.

True but is the OP's car one of those MIB3 cars you refer to? I was under the impression it's a 2.5 altohugh it's not stated anywhere.

The question is not fully clear: When you stream music via Bluetooth yes, you see artist and song info on the vc. However when you stream while connected to Android Auto (or I guess CarPlay also) then all you see is "Android Auto" / Carplay which i agree is dumb. You can still see music info from the infotainment screen though but that's not what the OP is after obviously.

Do you mean if you can use the same pads on the Octavia? I believe you should as from the schematics, it seems the "top mounts" at the rear (item no.5) are the same part 5Q0512149A for both the multi-link and torsion beam versions. In both setups the spring and shock are placed independently anyway.

Just make sure he uses the online catalog to get you the correct part numbers instead of any downloaded PDF. The kit number for the estate is the same as for the hatch (same as mine) so: E10-79-012-04-22 (at least till today...) Audi pads cost next to nothing really, the cost of all the replacement bolts is 4x times more. As I said, I think without them the car looks good on photos as front and rear are level when unloaded, but loses some of its practicality unless you don't mind the zero arch gap situation when loaded. With them, you retain the - as stock - slightly raised rear ensuring OEM useability. It's nice to have both options.

WRAP UP: So, the correct F11-79-008-01-HA rear springs were sent to me from Eibach for free and I installed them couple of days ago. I again used the thicker Audi pads on top of them to gain 6.5mm at the back as i was worried about practicality. The correct springs for the Superb are around 20mm longer (uncompressed) than the ones for the Passat (on the right) that I originally got. The measurements show: 355mm front, -25mm from 380mm stock Sportline DCC 363mm* rear, -27mm from 390mm stock Sportline DCC (360mm if not using the Audi pads) * The rear would be closer to 355-356mm if I hadn't used the 6.5mm Audi pads, so for anyone just putting the springs on the arch gap would be the same front and rear, more like in my previous pictures with the Passat rear springs. I understand Eibach deliberately drop the rear more than the front as usually people that lower their cars put looks very high in their priorities and indeed a car with identical arch gap front and rear looks nice and purposeful but considering how the car is not say, a coupe, and can occasionally be full with passengers and cargo I was worried it would result in those silly (to me) images of zero arch gap at the top and I wanted to avoid that. As a matter of fact, even as stock the front also sits 10mm higher than the rear (380mm vs 390mm wheel to fender) Here's a comparison picture between the previous situation with the Passat rear springs (bottom) vs the current ones (top): The angle of the photos slightly complements the lower Passat springs. In reality, with those the rear of the car strongly suggested it was lowered under most angles and situations, not something extreme, but it definitely caught the attention. Now it looks even more OEM which is something I like in general. But at least you can essentially choose between the two stances by just going for Eibachs and the car looking very much like the bottom pic (plus 2-3mm), or adding the Audi pads and looking as the top pic. With the Audi pads, loading the car with a couple of passengers it still does not sit lower than the bottom pic, so full use-ability is retained. One thing which I think got slightly worse with the correct springs is how the car drives. I was very excited about the improvement I got originally in terms of preciser handling and firmer rebound as you can read a few posts back. I don't know how it's possible for just the rear springs to affect this so noticeably but with the correct springs it seems as the car moved closer to its original damping behaviour In all modes, I notice a slightly looser damping. Going over the speed bump outside my driveway the car seems to want to do a second oscillation after it "lands" the first time which is ultimately stopped by the dampers but still you can feel that there is a tendency towards comfort. It's still better than stock, but not as much of an improvement as before. A damper upgrade is slowly creeping back in but i probably will avoid that as I will be drawing a line on the "driving mods/upgrades" on this car after some long consideration over its role and long-term plan. This might be actually very good for people who want to only correct the stock gap but not sacrifice much/anything in terms of comfort but with the wrong rear springs it seemed i had got two birds with one shot for my like. Now it's more like a half-way improvement. I wonder if the Passat springs are indeed of a higher spring rate compared to the Superb's or whether the fact that I hadn't driven the car much in-between the spring changes is messing with my impressions, but i'm almost sure it's the first, i will try to see if Eibach can assist in this. Couple more pics after the first evening drive:

Well if you bought Premium just for streaming music via Android Auto I'd agree it's a waste of money as there are other free apps for that. However i don't think that's the (primary) intention of the Premium subscription and if you're deeply involved with music, nothing else comes close to the service provided by Spotify premium. That been said, I am a bit confused with your setup, what do you mean by "the account linked to AA"? I just plug my phone in the usb, switch to AA from the in-car menu and launch Spotify through the AA app. I never specifically "linked" my Spotify account to AA, it just uses the account set up already on my phone's Spotify app. Also, I haven't tried the voice command thing but you can't be playing two different streams (on the phone and on the car) simultaneously when connected to AA so I wonder why that would be the limitation. If you launch a track on the phone;s app while connected to AA it should stream it there directly, no?