Lofty79

Valve stem seals or turbo seals.

Has your coolant level dropped at all? oil level? any overheating issues? What colour is the smoke?

Some of us will now be using summer diesel which is better. some will still have the antifreeze diesel which isnt quite as good, and the upturn temp will kill mpg a bit. so there will be folk noticing different things. mine has a needle that goes to right when i fill up, i then use the car and when its nearly all the way left i fill up again. Mpg? I dunno

And theres an example of how to do it in real life. i wasnt far off anyway.

erm no you dont dont the police pull you over for that smudged number plate?

ive had a blocked fuel filter do this before

aye warm air and the supply of winter diesel is still kicking around

this is true, working on the assumption that the rear axle was ok, my response was aimed at finding a front end issue, especially as there is a camber issue, rear axle issues wont cause camber problems on the front, so all im saying is my best guess would be............... these are cost free visual checks to try. hers hoping its front end

Here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243533-the-mr-muscle-vnt-turbo-treatment-thought-we-needed-a-guide-of-sorts/ overboost caused by sticky vanes in your VNT turbo - common, worth a shot at least

Oh yes and another issue is a pattern wishbone, non genuine stuff can be made wrong length and cause it. the camber is adjustable a little by loosening the 3 bolts for the ball joint and pushing it in, then retightening and as above front wheel alignment is all you need to do really on those

Sounds like you may have a bush away, console bush may be likely. Kick front of the tyre and see if it wobles. If not you may have a bent strut, or a bent hub. ive had a few hubs buckle when someone changing a bearing has been a bit heavy with the mallet. i would say in my mind a bent strut may be the problem, jack her up and get someone tto go lock to lock, it may show to the eye

To the OP you will probably need 1.5 degrees of camber, to make it drivable, and on that offset would look ace. but remember you will need 1.5 negative camber but also 0.5 track camber as the shims sit diagonally with the axle pointing upwards, so itll be toeing in too much. The 0.5 at front will straighten it up. Then a wee bit arch rolling and itll be able to brush the deck.

no need to delete the post. Just a kindly reminder of a better way to approach someone elses thread. bowders made positive comments first then showed an example of his chintzy vrs effort haha. Your spiders do look good, but its just good also to remember who posted the thread. If i were you id start a thread anyway as its a tidy wagon you have. One thing must be said though 'COILOVERS!!!!!!QUICK!!!'

To satys you might find it nicer etiquette to comment on the OP's wheels before you express your disinterest by posting your own photos. better still would be to start your own 'new wheels' thread. But then they are just spiders - the OP has gone a bit more stanced. I like them si1986 a big improvement over the stock. They must me et33 or something?

Tbh at the level you are looking at i dont see the reason for concern. i know its a different platform of car but principly the same, when i was down 110mm on cheapo coilies and different top mounts to squeeze more - i worried about how long my subframe would take to wear out on the road, and whether a 4 inch hole in the chassis would affect safety when cut for the drive shaft to clear it. 10mm spacers? I wouldnt worry too much about the health of the vehicle. Oh and i did 25k a year on that car and it was hellish - but looked good, i enjoyed showing it to my chiropractor

These can suffer from the brake light switch being dickie. But that would interfere with the lights too. if its only happened once it may not be a major issue, i would just label it a feature.

My 68bhp octy 1 would whip you all hahahahaha. 0-62 in 18.6 seconds, its like the skin on your face is about to peel off

Thats cool, on initial look its hard to tell someones situation and finances. in which case have at it ;-) the 7d i believe carries some rather handy tricks to enhance photography and has been a highly recommended body in alot of magazines around a year or two ago. of course where you are now is annoying to me haha im in north scotland that even at 2pm in august its classed as a low light situation. need a tripod about everywhere

In my opinion photography is totally different from car ownership in the upgrades department yes its easy to get sucked in but really if you cant get show stoppers with a 550d then you need to do more to improve your skill. The prime nifty fifty you are awaiting is an outstanding lens. personally i would be trying different techniques and spending money on going places that offer more potential for great shots. The prime lens will allow much better low light capability and should keep you occupied. its the subject more than the camera. I can only dream of your camera, but still love photography. my 2 pennies worth :-)

Thats the inlet manifold, it needs to be removed and soaked in diesel the egr the same, dont put mr m in these the smaller pipe with the ridges needs to be removed completely and the mr muscle put directly to turbo from manifold. all this info and many pics are in the thread buddy, there are no new questions here. familiarise yourself by reading it all it will sort your issue

price cheap £15 a pair just look on ebay, good cheap alternative

no bad bowders, no bad back in a skoda so where i should be aye mine was almost undrivably low, and had to have a notch are there longer drop links available? think the ones for the merc vito vans are just right for lowered vrs. few guys on another forum use them

might find the drive shaft is rubbing on the chassis? I had to cut a notch. that was tdi though, dont know if the 1.8t is same, shafts maybe thinner due to the tiny torque figures hahaha ps when im past 350k miles ill nip back and give yous guys a lift to 500k hi bowders

Go vw golf Yeah chintzy suspension

Or a manifold crack perhaps?