maccy

Thanks for all of the replies,I will see what happens at the MOT next week.

A question here for the team.My 6Y5 is coming up for MOT shortly, everything looks OK except for both front brake backplates are quite corroded now.The backplates are easy to get but when I ask about the mounting bolts I have drawn a blank.Does anyone know what size the bolts are so I can buy them before I strip it down to replace the backplates ? Thanks in anticipation.

Try SGS,I fitted a pair of struts on my Combi from them,and they have been on for about 4 yrs now with no problems/leaks etc.

You forgot the snorkel mate 😂

This is exactly how mine works on my Ambiente Combi.I know be because I had to change it a couple of years ago.The pump runs in both directions depending which screen is selected,front or rear.

Last time I went to my local TPS(Derby),they told me they do not sell to the public anymore, so I went elsewhere.

I thought that TPS were trade only, my local one wouldn’t sell to me a couple of years ago.

Whilst you have the belly plate off and are repairing the alternator wiring under the starter motor,you may as well do the same job on the aircon cables in the same place, if the alternator connections have corroded the aircon ones will be in the same condition.

The third block of connectors may be there for when the car has a multi CD player fitted under the passenger seat. I have a piece of kit that I originally had in my previous Fabia, it is a plug in cable connected to an iPad that tricks the stereo into thinking that there is a multiple CD unit fitted under the passenger seat, and it plays the iPad tracks perfectly.So if like both of my Fabias there was none fitted there would be an empty connector block from new.

A Dowty seal is designed to be fitted on hydraulic connectors (usually in a banjo type) it is a washer with an built in rubber seal so that when the hydraulic pressure in the connection rises it pushes the rubber part of the seal tighter onto it’s mating faces to make it oil tight.

No, remove the old washer as the Dowty seal needs 2 good faces to seal on.If you replace any washer you should never leave the old worn one in place, unless of course it is being used as a shim of some sort.

Just go to your local hydraulic pipe supplier and ask for a 14mm “Dowty” seal,it’s an aluminium washer with a built in O-ring seal.

No sorry I have no idea.

Sounds a lot like fuel running back overnight.Try a non-return valve on the line from tank to filter ?

Shouldn’t be a problem with glowplugs in the weather we are having at the moment.They are only needed when the ambient is around 5 deg.C.or colder.

“Exterior sump heaters, a heat plate bonded to the outside of the oil sump pan. Interior sump heaters or "pokers".” I am not a fan of these having had experience with them on small air cooled emergency generators at places like police stations etc, The heat from the exterior heater bolted to the sump causes a lump of black sludge to form inside the sump which does not drain away when the oil is changed.Unfortunately this is nearly always in the area of the oil pickup screen with disastrous results when the engine is started. Coolant heaters are now pretty well universal in emergency generators as it keeps the block/pistons warm etc and able to take load more or less straight away after starting.

Aah,so it works on a resistance reading and not whether the probes are immersed or not .Thanks.

Thanks for your replies everyone,I am aware of how everything on the cooling system works as I am a retired diesel engineer,I was just curious if anyone had played with a header tank to see where the low level alarm came on. Happy New Year to all of the forum members, and let’s hope 2021 is better for everyone

I use a piece of electrical insulation board on my 1.9Tdi every year from about November to March.It covers the whole of the top section of the grill and is held by two tie-wraps through holes that I drilled in it.Only the bottom section of the air intake grill below the bumper is open to cooling air.When I first got the car it took ages to get up to normal temperature in the winter so I fitted a new thermostat, no difference whatsoever.It still takes longer than petrol cars I have had but once it gets to 90deg.C.it never moves from there unless it idles for a long time with the heater fan on full.

Slightly off this topic but, this morning I thought as the car has not been run for over a week and it was covered in snow,I thought I would start up and warm up the engine as well as putting some charge back in the battery as I need to do a food shop.Started first time but after a few seconds the coolant hi-temp light came on and then started beeping,first thing I thought of was coolant level.I checked it and it was dead on the “min” level on the header tank.I let it run for 5 mins and it was still on.So I put just enough coolant in to take the level to half way.Still flashing on dash.Stopped the engine and restarted, light had gone off. So my question for the team is: has anyone any idea at what level in the header tank does the “Low coolant level” light come on ?

Slightly off this topic but, this morning I thought as the car has not been run for over a week and it was covered in snow,I thought I would start up and warm up the engine as well as putting some charge back in the battery as I need to do a food shop.Started first time but after a few seconds the coolant hi-temp light came on and then started beeping,first thing I thought of was coolant level.I checked it and it was dead on the “min” level on the header tank.I let it run for 5 mins and it was still on.So I put just enough coolant in to take the level to half way.Still flashing on dash.Stopped the engine and restarted, light had gone off. So my question for the team is: has anyone any idea at what level in the header tank does the “Low coolant level” light come on ?

As a follow up to the broken spring, when the leg was removed the top bearing was broken,I would have thought I might have heard something whilst driving.Garage replaced spring and bearing,£110 inc VAT.He left the parts out so I could have a look,and the bearing had broken in two places, virtually diametrically opposite to each other.

As we are on “Failed MOTs”,my 6Y5 failed this morning on a broken OSF spring, and a “slightly dragging “,OSR brake.Sorted the brake this afternoon, the usual pad rusted into the carrier,and car is booked in for the spring on Thursday,quoted between £80 to £90.I would have done this myself 5yrs.ago no problem, but the arthritis in my knees and hip have beaten me at last. I had no idea about the spring, there is about 2inches boken from the top of the coil.

Its much easier to buy a set of headlight deflectors for your car from ebay,the place to stick them onto the headlight lens is in the package.When you get back simply peel them off.

Every 60,000.miles for the belt and tensioner ,plus I change the water pump at the same time.There is no time limitation in my manual that I can find.