booke23

Guys, I get that you are not happy with the result, but you might be at risk of making yourselves look a bit silly.

That is definitely the DMF. It sounds like it is in an advanced state of failure......most people replace the DSG flywheel before it gets to the juddering stage. As soon as mine started juddering I got it replaced.....just in the nick of time as one of the springs in my flywheel had broke and freed itself from within the flywheel by punching a hole on the edge of the flywheel. I was very lucky not to have had it fly apart completely and hole the gearbox. I'd avoid driving it until you get it replaced.

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/ have them for £43.80 so with postage will come in around the £50 mark.

P0401 is the code for EGR "Insufficient Flow". Basically the EGR isn't opening enough......happened to me last week. It's worth cleaning the valve and clearing the code to see if that fixes it......it didn't work for me and I had to replace the EGR valve. However I think this P0401 code can also be caused by an out of spec MAF sensor as the engine actually uses the MAF value to measure EGR. It might be worth unplugging the MAF sensor to see if it makes a difference......ie if it is faulty the car should run a lot better with it unplugged. The other symptoms sound a lot like DMF. I've been there too and had mine replaced last year on my 2.0 PD DSG. When it is rattling on idle, try putting it in D with your foot on the brake.....if the rattle stops it is the DMF. Good luck.

On the bigger engines, fitting a SMF is somewhat experimental. As mentioned on the petrol vrs models you will probably have to go down the route of upgraded race type clutch with SMF and will probably result in poorer driveability.

The first post of this thread said the problem was brake imbalance, hence my advice......which I stand by as the first thing you should try with those symptoms (ie imbalance). If the brakes are juddering then the discs are warped and need replacing along with the pads......although not at £276. A dealer would probably charge less than that. Awww.......thanks!

Take it out and do some very heavy braking from speed. (Obvs where it is safe to do so) Sometimes the calipers go a bit out of balance over time if you are gentle on the brakes, and an Italian tune up can restore balance. Of course a proper garage would have taken the car out and tried this themselves......My Octavia had front brake balance problems at the last MOT that was sorted with a few harsh brake applications.

I replaced the screen on my wifes S5 a few months ago. It was so well smashed up that I couldn't remove the glass from the LCD display.....if I could it would have only cost about £10 to fix it. I had to replace the whole class and LCD assembly at a cost of £100. It is fairly easy to do if you have a heat gun....wouldn't fancy trying to melt the glue with a hair dryer! Plenty of videos online to show the process.

For the type of driving you are doing, I'd be looking at a 1.6 FSI. No DMF to fail, no turbo to fail and no timing belt to change. It'll cost you much less to buy than an equivalent age/mileage diesel.

Depends whether or not the original buyer specced (and paid) for them.....my 2006 L&K has factory Xenons, but it cost the original buyer £500......I know because the car has been in the family since new.

As willydog says, a 2006 L&K will have halogen headlights as standard. Xenons were a £500 option then. However Xenons were standard on L&K's not long after.....2007/8 I think.

I'd say the cam sensor sounds like the likely culprit. It's quite a common failure mode to only stop working when it gets hot and work fine once it has cooled down. Next time it does it there should be a fault code stored.

The OP has a 7 speed dsg, so the dealer is correct that the fluid is good for life. As for why it's slipping......Maybe the clutch pack needs replaced or the mechatronics unit is faulty. It really needs proper diagnostics carried out to find out exactly what's wrong.

Me too!....you live and learn.

Good stuff. Sounds like it has probably been worth it in your case. I knew pretty much right away that the new thermostat hadn't made a difference.

I'm pretty sure the DSG diesels have 288mm front discs.

I suspect turbo oil seals. So I really need a new turbo, but as it is running fine I can't bring myself to spend the money on it!

There will always be a coating of oil in the boost pipes......that is normal. What you don't want is puddles of oil accumulating in the boost pipes......complete with oil seepage at all the boost pipe joints which is what I've got!

It needs to get really low to put the amber low oil light on.....below the min mark on the dipstick on both my 1.9pd and 2.0pd.

My 2.0pd has recently started to do this. I'm pretty sure it's down to oil being released into the boost pipes. There is certainly a lot more oil in them than there used to be. This points to my turbo oil seals.....it's done just over 100,000 miles but as your turbo is new you'd expect the seals to be OK. Worth taking a boost pipe off and having a look.

Sorry.....double post.

It's probably the side airbag in the side of the seat. The cause is the yellow plug under the seat. Even if it looks ok it will have a bad connection in it. Simply cut the plug out and solder the wires together under the seat (disconnect the battery). This will in all probability fix the fault. However even when fixed, the airbag light will remain on until cleared with VCDS. All the above is no more of a faff than sourcing and connecting a resistor.

I think so.....explain the symptoms and I'm sure they'll scan it.

If they look ok, I wouldn't bother touching them. Although VAG cars tend to wear out lower arm bushes quite nicely, they don't seem to wear out ARB bushes very fast.

I assume you are actually referring to the FL Mk2 Octavia that you just bought rather than the Mk1 in your sig? A flashing EML light can be caused by any number of faults....usually some sensor or the like....It really needs scanning. Odd that the speedo has failed too....Possible that it's related.