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VW Group also have engines that turn off and turn on while coasting, then ones that are mild hybrids that are regenerating so charging the battery while coasting or regen can be increased to slow down. Then they have ones that know by GPS when the power will be required, or cylinder deactivation can happen or the engine shut down. They are hardly going backwards while chasing low Average C02 g/km's. ? Do older manual petrol cars really have no spark and no fuel used when the accelerator is not touched and the ignition is on, and diesels just keep on running on heat with no fuel being fed to cylinders? I cant see any recent guides showing 'coasting'.

Best remember it is a 2 pedal car and called an Auto, but really it is a semi automatic, automated manual so tiptronic. You can use the gears with the shifter or the paddles if you have them. S is good for point and shoot, holding the rpm longer before shifting up. The issue for me is that in S you can not shift the shifter across to manual without going into D. I like 'Coasting' and manual downshifts in a DQ200 DSG. It is all good practice for Mild Hybrids, Plug in's or EV's. With EV's you are coasting unless using regen when off the accelerator.

@KenONeillWe know what happens if we think, rather than do. Do you ever drive DSG's? I read what he posted. They need not feel like that. Trying a reset will do no harm.

Remembering that towing a caravan on single carriageway roads you are stuck with a 50 mph speed limit.

Round 2, from Senagal. Today it is on ITV, so now. 3pm-5pm,

Does it say in the Owners Manual that it can not be turned off? Is there no options in the Menus to 'Inhibit / turn off'. I have always found ways that it can go 'Off' in Dry and Wet Clutch DSG, Petrol or Diesel. I never do put it 'off' because i use it over the A9, A939 or A93, or other suitable roads and you can save fuel on, (Average or Mobile Camera roads) and do the routes at the same average speeds. As it is i am ready to cover the throttle, brake or to downshift or upshift if needed to slow or pick up speed. As far as the OP and 'against everything taught', i had my driving lessons in an Auto before my test and sat my test in an Auto and have driven Auto's since 17 year old with getting economy in mind and finding letting a car run on and carrying speed totally natural, and then make down shifting or switching out of 'overdrive' and not braking.

The engine is idling. The gears are disengaged, no toe on the accelerator, just give it a touch and it goes back into gear.

@KenONeilli meant that post for the OP not you.

It should be smooth, the 6 speeds are good DSG's as are 7 speed wet clutch. (Some say 7 speed dry, so DQ200's are snatchy etc, but that might be some, they need not be like that, some say common, but then those boxes are not working as designed to.)

The £670 was not the charge to locate the leak, it was the price to locate and repair. ? So how was the bill broken down in parts, & the coolant and labour time including diagnosing the source of the leak? then there was VAT included in the £670 total bill. 2 years parts and warranty if a Skoda Main Dealership. I hope the water pump is OK for a long time into the future.

'Coasting' has the gears disengaged. So the vehicle is freewheeling / coasting. With many DSG's that means instead of D7 or D6 you get just D. Maybe with the OP's that shows E rather than E7.

T Cut has done the job it is meant to for decades, as do other light use rubbing compounds. 'T-Cut Colour' does a job as well, it might just not work magic, the colours used can make a difference between good or so so.

Was the car behaving the same before the DSG oil change? If all is well with the engine and the servicing of that then maybe best have the DSG checked out, correct quantity of the correct oil in type of thing. OT, but What about the Haldex, has it been serviced @ 3 years, and how about since, or will it be getting done soon?

Only normal if the DSG is not performing correctly. Maybe a Reset will help it. Best have a diagnosis run on it. ? How many miles / km has the car done? The Oil Change / service is due at 40,000 miles / 64,000 ish km.

@Michaeldavis39how often does 6,000 miles come up for you? There are some that do high miles and each 6,000 miles might mean them changing oil 3 or 4 times a year. There are high mileage drivers that are fine with the correct spec of oil changed at Variable / Flexible service intervals and they might do 100's of thousands of miles and have no engine failures. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/476057-vag-independent-uses-fusch-oils

The future has arrived then because Kia / Hyundai or others sell EV,s that can do 300 miles on a charge,. Weather permitting, and road type and load carried in or on the car.

Nothing special or magical then, Asda, Tesco, Comma, Fuchs, Comma etc etc will be just as good. There are oil with additives / detergents and fuels with additives / detergents so gunge with fixed or variable servicing should be a thing of the past.

@Michaeldavis39 would you like to share with us what better oil which is to VW504 / 507 00 or VW508 / 509 00 so. 5w 30 FS III. Or 0w 20 FS IV you were adviced to use, or do you mean your were adviced not to use Castrol, Quantum,Fuchs etc and use Mobile or some other? Were you adviced with a TSI to do fixed service intervals and use VW 502 00 spec which is not Long Life oil?

Coasting function can be disabled (turned off). And when functioning and you want off then touch the accelerator, or a wee tap of the brake, or maybe drop a gear to decelerator. Best saying what engine and gearbox you have so that people know.

It is common and has been for years (decades) now with faulty caps since all vehicles got sealed caps so it applies to all manufacturers. ? What is your actual model of Skoda? A mod can maybe move your post.

Welcome to the forum. Metallic Greys are good for not showing marks & scratches, but do not scratch your car washing it in the first place. Sometimes you might leave a Grey car longer between washes. Best get the colour you actually like.

Well it wasn't that warm just north of Fife for much of last winter, and might not be for the next 2 or 3 years so that might be as long as some have their lease cars. My heat pump does sound like a ICE car with the fans running while cooling down or regening while sitting with the car switched on.

It will be a question of the future for those buying used.

Sounds right for the indicated oil temperature. Once you are slowed down the oil should be showing back down to about the 92*oC once the fans are running and the coolant system is doing its job. It might be up at 110+*oC in hot weather at 70+mph.

We will assume there is good grip with a dry surface and those narrow tyre grip and go and maybe just maybe the acceleration time will better that on the wider tyres.