Breezy_Pete

Would that late-May date be the MY changeover? If so, the 10th digit of VIN could be pertinent.

Well it wasn't the master cylinder. 🙄 Have literally just had another idea that might be easyish to check once the rain stops - could it be that the flexi section of the hydraulic hose between master and slave is swelling/ballooning somewhere, taking some of the fluid that ought to be pushing the slave cylinder's actuator? Far-fetched and probably just me being in denial about there being something wrong inside the bell housing. Fingers crossed though...

The parts catalogue is doing my head in somewhat, but I think if Fred66's car was built on or before 27/05/12 he'd need the suffix-AN item 1 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953050/ and if built on or after 28/05/12 it'd be 6R0 953 507C from this page: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953051/#1 I'm not sure I'd order a spare without having seen the part number sticker on the original, given the sheer number of options. Does the top cowling, item 5 on those pages, just pull off upwards, that would be too easy, right... And none of them seem to fit part number-wise with what Fawnrush posted up-page, which confuses me further.

Posting some pics on Fred66's behalf:

Perhaps you should put him on your ignore list, then he would pretty much disappear from your view?

Oil temperature sensor fault, judging by a quick bit of googlage. Check wiring adjacent to the connector on the sump.

Part number will be printed on it somewhere.

Pleasure mate, did you take any photos? So there wasn't any thread-tapping operation, just drilling and press-fitting?

Probably just the battery light, but depending on usage, that wire being broken might mean that the alternator isn't working for at least some of the time when it should be, leading to low battery charge problems and all sorts of faults. Fix the known fault, then see if there are any left.

The blue wire that provides initial field coil energy to the alternator is broken. The place where at least 99 out of 100 of these breaks is at a bracket on the front of the gearbox where it, and another wire that may also be broken, go through a 2-pin plug/socket connection.

Brown negative, blue/white positive.

Hi, yes, good day here thanks, how's yours been? Welcome, and thanks for such a cheerful introduction. ☺️

Fair enough. New rad cheap enough if you look around.

Thermoswitch is about 100mm above bottom hose connection, totally invisible in that pic.

Yep, tends to be the fan thermoswitch just needs tightening a tad. Main thing is the HG should have Temac printed on it, which I can't see in the picture on that listing, ask the seller if it's there.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment Everything relating to lights should be in that section. Section 4.1.3. Switching is probably where you need to look. Probably easier to fix the fault properly than to rig up some legal workaround.

We've been having various problems lately with jerkiness taking off from a standstill. I thought it was all about engine unevenness but I'm starting to change my mind, maybe. An observation last weekend, when comparing the Fabia to both Polos, was that the engage/disengage point of the clutch is a looong way further down the pedal travel on the Fabia, like in the last two or three centimetres before the pedal hits the stop. Another, that I've just noticed this morning, is that the first few cm of pedal travel meets almost no resistance at all. There's much less 'no resistance movement' on my comparison cars. Here's a little video I just made of me pushing it down with my little finger. 20200718_120317.mp4 I just had the slave cylinder off briefly to check for fluid leakage, of which there was none. The slave is recent, dating back only to the clutch change that wasn't very many years ago. Last weekend I bled the clutch, and although the fluid that emerged was nasty and dark, there were no air bubbles whatsoever. Is this looking like a master cylinder problem? Saw on youtube a vid where the guy clamped the flexi part of the hose between master and slave, looking for a rock-hard pedal as a result. Didn't get it so concluded fluid leakage at the master. I'm slightly reluctant to try this as I don't have a proper hose clamp tool, and that bit of hose is 15 years old. Your thoughts please people.

Morning folks, Just passing on a couple of tips relating to part numbers; for those of us without full access to ETKA. Apart from the fairly ubiquitous ETKA-like sites such as 7zap.com and nemigaparts.com, I've come across a couple of other handy sites. The first one; oemwolf.com will tell you about whether (and by what) any given part number has been superseded. You just put the part number - stripped of any/all spaces - in the search box and click on "Find it" (enter/return doesn't work). It'll then tell you about superseding part numbers, sometimes in a seemingly never-ending recursion. The other site, which I just happened upon this morning, can let you go the other way - backwards in time - and tell you previous revisions of a given part number. Here you put your part number in the search box, click "Search" and then click on the "OEM part numbers" tab just above the blue "Contact us" banner. You will be given the anteceding part numbers. https://www.oemvwshop.com/ Both sites can be very useful. For example where ebay has no offerings for a recent part number, but knowing what that part number was before its latest version may open the search net much wider.

I think the long-anticipated exhaust valve trouble may be rearing its ugly head on the missus's Fabia. AZQ-code, 1.2/12-valve engine at 174k miles. I bought a spare head about 7 years ago, after learning about issues with these engines: I think now might be the time to bring it into service. The engine has been sounding steadily louder/exhaustier over the last couple of years, despite many attempts to remove all possible leaks in the external exhaust system. Just recently it has got noticeably less smooth at idle, and driving it briefly yesterday morning, pulling away forward or backward at low revs feels like the engine's trying to jump out of the bay. 🙄 I suspect the idle unevenness is imbalance between cylinders caused by exhaust valve leakage; and this extreme jerkiness at low rpm is full-on, total misfiring of the affected cylinder(s). Anyone agree, or got alternative explanations? It still seems to run fine above idle, returning slightly above long-term average mpg, Hoping it will get home from its current location today, a reasonable distance. It's done same journey the last 3 weekends so I'm hopeful. Got a solid yellow emissions warning light halfway home last weekend with an upstream oxygen sensor code. Cleared and didn't re-appear during the week. Any way to inspect the exhaust valves nicely with head still on? I've borrowed a little USB camera that'll go through spark plug holes OK, but not sure I can get it to look upwards very easily, needs a teeny mirror that will have to go in ahead of it. What about with exhaust manicat off? Can't remember how much might be visible through the exhaust ports? I don't have leakdown test gear, whatever that consists of. Compression tested relatively recently with good numbers IIRC.

Hi folks, I'm faced with fitting a new inner tie-rod to the missus's mk1 Fabia imminently and was looking for guidance about one particular aspect. The 'book' instructions insist on full removal of the rack from the car which seems extreme (won't be doing that); and then, with the thing out of the car they say that the main shaft must be counterheld against the loosening/re-tightening torques using a spanner on some (19mm AF?) flats which is present only on the left hand end: It's the other end I'm replacing so I'm a little reluctant to bugger about with this as it means pulling the boot back on the side I'm not doing, and possibly needing another pair of hands to hang off a spanner somewhere in the deep dark recesses of the bay. What's the level of risk of damage, does anyone reckon? Preferably people who've done the job without counterholding, and driven many happy miles thereafter. Cheers EDIT: just thinking...the diagram shows a LHD rack, wonder if the flats are on the other side for a RHD one, i.e. a mirror image and the side I am actually doing? anyone know?

Had reports from the good lady that the doors have been locking themselves whilst driving (not programmed to do so), and have personally experienced occasions when the tailgate hasn't responded to the release button above the numberplate. Had a look in the driver's side bellows this morning and think I've found the problem(s); several cracked wires:

I thought this was topical, given the weather... Mk1 Fabia uses a circuitboard mounted relay to drive the wipers, which is great when it is working, but a little unfortunate when it wears out. The circuit board in question is in the Onboard Supply Control Unit, physically located above the accelerator pedal in RHD cars, clutch pedal in LHD (I guess). It tends to be known as the BCM (Body Control Module) in later cars, and is not the same as the Central Convenience Module (which does locks and stuff). The relay can be replaced, but must be unsoldered from the circuit board without damaging anything. I used hot air to do so, at work on my first try with a small, very expensive hot air gun. Later, at home on another, with a much cheaper more domestic hot air gun like you'd get from B&Q for paintstripping etc. Obviously, you need to get the local area of the board hot enough to melt the 10 solder joints, but not so hot as to catch fire or melt anything else too much. Not trivial, but not too hard. Here are pics of the location of the relay and one of it removed, the ten pin holes cleared out with a 'solder sucker' and/or 'solder wick', and the extracted relay to show part number etc. I found these available on ebay from Poland I think, not too much <£5 each. You're going to want to rule out all other possibilities first, like fuses, linkage issues, wiper motor etc. By the way, if you use the intermittent wiper setting, it wears this relay hugely faster than when on the constant setting. Every time the wiper starts a back and forth sweep, and finishes it, this relay has to switch on and off. When on continuous mode, it just operates when you first switch on, and when you finally switch off. Relays mainly wear out by the contacts getting pitted during opening/closing operations, rather than by hours spent in the energised state. -do=add#.url -do=add#.url I need to credit Briskoda member @anewman for supplying me with a known bad unit, in order to test my idea that relay replacement would fix it. He now has it back and may have it available for sale if anyone needs one...

Found another beauty at lunchtime on a new workmate's 05-plate Fabia. Check yours today, cheapest bit of diagnostics/preventative maintenance you can do. Gaffer tape until pipe replaced if significant cracks are found. Part number is printed at regular intervals along the hard plastic part of the hose. Don't forget to run your fingers round the underside of those connections, they often crack out of sight on the road-facing sides.