Breezy_Pete

True spline drive has 60-degree corners, XZN has 90-degree. Terms are often mixed up and confused/misused though.

Yes, I think that's the later version. Internals are very similar but packaged differently. I cut one up last year to see what was in there, but it's too late in the day for me to search for my photos etc. Will follow up tomorrow. 🙂

Whine sounds like nice healthy induction noise to me.

Item 5 here I imagine: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/1/105-105030/ Part number N 91048802 Try contacting vagbolts via here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/vagbolts he tends to be reasonably proced on both parts and delivery and usually very rapid on delivery. May not have these on hand though so might be a little slower, dunno. If he can't help, allcarpartsfast.co.uk will get them for you , but overcharge you for postage and packing, and may not be hugely quick. Or armed with the part number, google may suggest other options.

There's an ebay seller by the name of VAGbolts who may be able to help you.

Explanation: CFD explanations.pdf

Nope, injected downstream of dpf. Reduces NOx output. (DPF is just about soot capture).

No, wrong. As I wrote, the numbers along the bottom are the current track numbers. The numbers in the rectangular boxes refer to these. Don't ignore any numbers. Please think about this for a while. It's confusing at first but simple really.

Numbers in rectangular boxes show the 'current track' where this wire continues. 'Current track' numbers are the numbers running along the bottom of each diagram. When you get to the correct page with the referenced current track, you'll find a corresponding rectangle containing the number of the current track where you just came from. Example here where both current tracks are on the same page (they usually aren't) I've drawn in a green line to show the two points being linked

Now why did you have to go and show me that?! Aaaaarrrrrgggghhhhh!!! Looks damn handy...Incredible value for money too considering what you get. @juanse_2691, I will experiment tomorrow on one or both cars that I am near to see if I can replicate what you experience.

Yes @J.R. that's the 3/8" set, I also have a 1/2" and a 1/4" set. I can report nothing but great service from them, with the exception that using the back of the 3/8" ratchet handle as a hammer may result in breaking the forwards/backwards ratcheting selector lever. Not sure which wise man might have done that, as I'm the only one that ever uses the set? 😑

What year is the car? Don't bother answering that, it's the same on every wiring diagram for every year. Fuse 51 as Lee says, 15 Amps.

Are you sure it's bent, and not just lopsided cos one of the cables isn't moving as much as the other? Got a photo? Comes as part of the whole handbrake lever, item 1 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/7/711-711050/ Can you not whip one off a car at a scrapyard?

Do check the area of the radiator thermoswitch though. Leaks there tend to evaporate before they hit the ground, and it seems very common. The thermoswitch is located just above the bottom radiator hose connection. If it is leaking, tighten it a bit and it will stop. Don't be brutal, it's a brass thread insert in plastic. 30Nm specified torque.

Drive it hard and you can expect the level to drop faster if it is head-lift. Nanny it and the rate of loss will slow.

Instructions here, to save me saying it all again: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118646-erwin-now-available-for-skoda/?do=findComment&comment=4377473

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

No, sorry. Copyright material. You can buy it yourself at erwin skoda for 7 euros plus tax.

Where does the downwards pointing hose go to if you follow it? Brake servo? Is it that one with the split? Where the rigid hose goes over the hose barbs of the one-way valve?

Usually if the immobiliser isn't happy it lets the engine start but then cuts it out again after a few seconds. (From what I've read, I haven't had it happen to me.)

I have no reason to think that isn't normal.

Crank sensor and MAP sensor are also fed from a 5V source (brown/white wires in both cases), but from a different ECU pin (62) so I suspect it may not be the same voltage supply. Check whether that 5V is present anyway, MAP sensor is a lot more accessible than crank sensor.

And you'd be right. I tried drain/gutter sealant the first time I repaired a door. It rained that night, and the sealant seemed to dissolve! That was the last time I ever bought anything in a pound shop, I think.

The earth sounds like the factory connecton. There is at least one other sensor fed by this 5V, I will have another look at the wiring diagram later because a fault elsewhere may be pulling down the 5V rail.

If built before March 2010, it should be like this Pin 1 at cam sensor connector, the red/black wire, should have 5V relative to pin 3 the brown earth wire. (Certainly when cranking or running, possibly just with ignition on) Pin 1 originates from pin 64 at the engine ECU, the earth wire should have connectivity to pin 54. If built from March 2010 onwards, the 5V wire is black/white and the earth is brown/blue.