Breezy_Pete

I would definitely advise looking at the part number on ones existing part before ordering anything, if it's visible just by popping off that top cowling. There are still other part numbers for the part in the ETKA pages for earlier years, 2009/10/11, so a tricky one to get right 'in theory' without looking at the specific car. Mentioning that for the OP @Fawnrush's benefit. Some will probable be interchangeable, but I wouldn't gamble on it.

Had a go a few minutes back. Nothing bulgy but interestingly, the whole flexi section can be felt to move slightly (in the direction of the arrow) as the clutch pedal is pushed fully to the floor. Not sure if this is to be expected, or how to imagine exactly what's going on structurally there; but doing the same check on my Polo results in much less noticeable (but still detectable) motion in the same direction.

Would that late-May date be the MY changeover? If so, the 10th digit of VIN could be pertinent.

Well it wasn't the master cylinder. 🙄 Have literally just had another idea that might be easyish to check once the rain stops - could it be that the flexi section of the hydraulic hose between master and slave is swelling/ballooning somewhere, taking some of the fluid that ought to be pushing the slave cylinder's actuator? Far-fetched and probably just me being in denial about there being something wrong inside the bell housing. Fingers crossed though...

The parts catalogue is doing my head in somewhat, but I think if Fred66's car was built on or before 27/05/12 he'd need the suffix-AN item 1 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953050/ and if built on or after 28/05/12 it'd be 6R0 953 507C from this page: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953051/#1 I'm not sure I'd order a spare without having seen the part number sticker on the original, given the sheer number of options. Does the top cowling, item 5 on those pages, just pull off upwards, that would be too easy, right... And none of them seem to fit part number-wise with what Fawnrush posted up-page, which confuses me further.

Posting some pics on Fred66's behalf:

Perhaps you should put him on your ignore list, then he would pretty much disappear from your view?

Oil temperature sensor fault, judging by a quick bit of googlage. Check wiring adjacent to the connector on the sump.

Part number will be printed on it somewhere.

Pleasure mate, did you take any photos? So there wasn't any thread-tapping operation, just drilling and press-fitting?

Probably just the battery light, but depending on usage, that wire being broken might mean that the alternator isn't working for at least some of the time when it should be, leading to low battery charge problems and all sorts of faults. Fix the known fault, then see if there are any left.

The blue wire that provides initial field coil energy to the alternator is broken. The place where at least 99 out of 100 of these breaks is at a bracket on the front of the gearbox where it, and another wire that may also be broken, go through a 2-pin plug/socket connection.

Brown negative, blue/white positive.

Hi, yes, good day here thanks, how's yours been? Welcome, and thanks for such a cheerful introduction. ☺️

Fair enough. New rad cheap enough if you look around.

Thermoswitch is about 100mm above bottom hose connection, totally invisible in that pic.

Yep, tends to be the fan thermoswitch just needs tightening a tad. Main thing is the HG should have Temac printed on it, which I can't see in the picture on that listing, ask the seller if it's there.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment Everything relating to lights should be in that section. Section 4.1.3. Switching is probably where you need to look. Probably easier to fix the fault properly than to rig up some legal workaround.

It's an indirect system that uses wheel speed information to infer changes in rolling radius. No measurement of actual gas pressure made, so none to display.

Thanks, friend.

^Agree with MicMac, though not necessarily the handbrake cable, could be hydraulic problem.. My car will make that noise if I stop and put the handbrake on not quite enough when reversing out of the driveway, to get out and shut the gate. The car has moved a few mm as the noise happens.

^ That was the experiment as conducted by the owner. I borrowed the car today and had no such luck improving anything by pumping the pedal. Replacement master is on the way, so will get fitted anyway, but not as confident as I was yesterday.

The brake servo vacuum hose. The junctions of the hard plastic sections where they are stretched to breaking point over hose barbs. People will say that the symptoms don't fit that, but well worth checking anyway.

Yep, that was my thought too. You @NathanG could make some cash at the same time as the hoarder making some cash that he'll not otherwise see. Win, win.

Good question. It's very much in their interests to be ambiguous about which they mean. One of my neighbours recently asked me to check out a similar report on his front brakes. Garage said the discs were both (just) below minimum thickness, which they quoted as Xmm. Only thing is, everywhere you looked online for that size disc, the minimum thickness was given as 1mm less than X... So no action required for a year or two, probably, maybe more.