Breezy_Pete

I doubt you'll find wiring sitting ready for use, so I'd suggest getting that done if you plan to go ahead with this. In case you don't know, KL15 means an ignition switched supply, KL31 is earth, and KL58d is the backlighting supply for various switches, often a grey/blue wire. Getting the wire through to the ABS module may present the biggest challenge if it isn't already present.

It probably only illuminates when the level is low (yellow) or the pressure is low (red). Find and unplug the oil pressure switch and go for a drive, you'll soon see a red light methinks. Usually the only sensor on the engine with just one wire going to it. If this is a 1.2 TSI, it's near the top of the engine, rear left, plug goes downward onto it.

Other way round, probably. VCDS probably picking up part number of just electronic bit, ETKA giving only option of whole lot including hydraulics section. No listing for just electronic bit. I doubt it's a case of ESC or TPMS, it may be simply that ESC versions all automatically include possibility of TPMS, so it's not mentioned. 7K6 means Indirect tire pressure monitoring system, 7K3/4/5 are all direct (pressure sensing) TPMS variants. Your car's data says 7K0 - Without tyre pressure monitor though, possibly only due to lack of button and wiring though. @Cairus is sure to be better able to help, if he can find time.

Not sure that's conclusive though, 'cos the units that do mention TPMS seem to only be within the page devoted to Yetis that have ABS without Electronic Stability Control. Yours has ESC.

For your VIN, the ABS control module part number shows as 1K0 614 517 DM No mention of TPMS in its description.

What part number is showing in scans for your ABS module? A quick glance at parts list suggests different part numbers for with and without TMPS. If you let me know your VIN by PM, I can look up.

@Alvin600 I can attempt to look up which parts are involved, using your VIN to make sure that only parts fitted to your specific car will be listed. I'll message you privately, so that you can supply the VIN to me. You're too new to start such a conversation, but you will be able to reply to my message.

Oh well done. Very poor design in lots of ways. When I did mine recently, I found that the driver's side long bolt had been replaced by a much shorter one (65mm instead of 100mm), and that was previously done by a garage. Can only have had a few mm engagement with the thread in the console. ☹️

Can't see why they'd say left hand drive if it wasn't specific to them.

See Occyvrs's 2nd post on page 1, with info from internal VW comms:

Don't think anything will free it now as there'll be loads of aluminium oxide and aluminium metal clogging up the threads, and no way to remove. Hope I'm wrong. The bolts that hold the console on go into steel of chassis, rather than alloy, so won't suffer the same galling. If you do try to shear the front console bolt that's stuck, I did it with long, multiple extensions on a good 6-point 18mm socket, long enough to fit a 2' breaker bar to in front of the car, then applied a really surprising amount of force persistently before the bolt broke. Sweaty job.

Don't say I didn't warn you. I had to shear the bolt to get mine apart, then bought a whole new console with bush pre-fitted.

Use my part number in ebay with word genuine, and you get item number 277634634997 New genuine at about half price compared with dealership if you use the coupon.

Armed with VIN, it appears to be the part number shown in the green box. The one below the green box is for the housing (3C0127400E) that is greyed out within the orange box of 'Pos. 1s', so I'm assuming that is not suitable for yours. No idea why your housing has a misleading part number label on it. Probably a 'subassembly' that doesn't exist in the spare parts catalogue. 3C0 127 434 filter element with gasket is a mere £41.15 + VAT from Skoda. 😆

Message me with VIN, please Nick.

Current/suggested part number confirmed by VIN as 6Q0500051BB. Wondering if in that other thread the OP maybe gave me a VIN of a car he knew had disc rear axle, as that was their goal. Anyhoo, looks like the others have solved the info shortage well ahead of me. 🙂

Not sure, but in this thread I appear to have looked up by VIN the suggested replacement part for a car with drum brakes and got the part number that's described as for disc brakes, so they may have rationalised part numbers. Can look up your suggested PN if you can tell me VIN. Typing at same time as Jack25 above, whose info is usually excellent, so have a read of his link. ^

Very little chance of them pulling the injectors to test them in my opinion. I'd also think that the electrical bits, plug and coil, are much more likely to be the problem.

Fingers crossed, let us know. 🙂

6Q as the start of the part number suggests first model to use it was 9N (4th generation, from approx 2001) Polo, I think. You might well be able to create a lookalike replacement out of bits and pieces donated from a few different ones.

Or message me with VIN.

Great, but no point in trying to get to the threads via head end of bolt. Gotta go in from open end of thread in console.

The ones that go through subframe, front bush of wishbone and then into long alloy thread of the console. The thread goes all the way through the console, so you can get to the open end and spray penetrating fluid in there. Trouble comes generally if bolts have been reused previously, and their anti-corrosion coating damaged. Then it can be a 'cluster-hug' of corrosion and thread galling. If it really jams up well it's replacement console too.

Then I think you should just drive it. It's not true that without vacuum assistance the brakes don't work. You just have to push much harder on the pedal.

I just undid the 4 M8s to release the whole driver's side mount from body, then jacked sump up carefully. If I did it again I think I would also unscrew the dogbone mount to allow easier movement. Watch out also for the front bolts seizing on their way out. Abort early if this feels like it's happening.