lowedb

Sister in law has a 2016 1.4 Tdi. Got some warning lights on her way home. I'm not local to her. However her Nephew (and mine) has read out fault codes albeit with a generic tool. All pointing to EGR issues. Local dealer can't even look at it for 6 weeks. Nephew can't look at it any more for 3 weeks. She wants it fixed before then. So does anyone know of decent VAG independants near Worcester. And preferably ones they know are good. Some years ago we used one local to us (Lichfield) and their work was appalling on more than one occasion.

Hi. No not checked coding, but I don't have a record of what the coding would have been. But maybe you mean checking for fault codes? I checked twice, both times the same one, but then I haven't cleared it. The car is going to the main dealers anyway (MOT and service) so want to leave any fault codes in there in case it helps them (though I suspect it won't). Not my car, not my decision......

It wasn't when the warning light was flashing, but was working OK after that when the light wasn't flashing.

Hi and thanks. This is the 1.2 tdi. I've never had one but all of the Skoda tdi's we have had (including a Mk3 1.4 tdi) raised it from around 750 RPM to around 1000. This one is much higher than I've ever experienced on any other at 1500 RPM. Also if it were regen, I'd expect it to persist until regen were finished rather than coming and going during one drive, and when the brakes are released. It does have a seperate DPF warning light too, and it's only coming on during self test at ignition on. Also no fan running nor hot smell that all of our others have done.

I've had a bit of a search of the forum and can't find anything quite the same as this issue. It's my Mum's car. It did get a bit of a low battery during Lockdown V1, but never got low enough to damage the battery, so after recharging it started and ran fine. Gave it a good run and parked it up. Later, while still enough charge in the battery started it and brought it to my house so I can stick a small charger on it to maintain the battery. Been doing that for a number of weeks now. Needed to take my Dad for his Covid jab this morning, and it started and ran fine to take him there. On the way back, again was fine for most of the way, but then I noticed that when I stopped at a junction, the idle speed was very high (1500) and I haven't found anything on here matching that. Also at that point the glowplug lamp started flashing. My initial thought was that it was trying to do a regen and not managing. I thought a decent run on the way back would fix it, but when I got back in after dropping him off the glowplug light stayed off. However the high idle persisted, though not every time. It seems to drive fine, though I don't know the car well. Can't feel any change in performance from any other time I drove it though. I wondered if it might be developing sticky throttle pedal, having had this on our own Skoda of the same era some time ago. I planned to knock the throttle to see if it 'unstuck' but as soon as I took my foot off the brake pedal, Idle dropped very quickly to normal. This was completely consistent, the instant the brake pedal was released idle became normal. Didn't have any glowplug lamp activations this time. The high idle was also always exactly 1500 RPM, a bit too consistent for a sticky throttle pedal I scanned the car with VCDS, and only one fault code. In the engine, but VCDS list this as an unknown fault code, and I am using the current version. My suspicion is the brake light switch, given the change of behaviour when released. But the Engine ECU has no code for a brake pedal switch fault. The ABS ECU to which I believe the switch is connected has no DTCs at all. However looking at the measured values for the switch in the ABS, I see waht appears to be an oddity. There are two switches in the box. BLS (for the lights themselves) and BTS (for plausibilty checking of BLS) and two measured values corresponding. But while the BLS measured value read as expected, the BTS value was completely blank. The brake lamps themselves are all working fine. I'm aware that earlier cars had significant issues with the brake lamp switch, but is this an issue anyone has seen on a Mk2 (2010)? The symptoms are just a bit odd and specific.

That's a really helpful comment. Thanks.

TBF, It's only been in other brands that I've seen issues, oh and things like caravans. Have you seen something in particular that makes you pick aout Audi?

In my own experience with LEDS failing in a domestic situation, it has been the power supply in the lamp rather than the LEDs themselves, usually a capacitor losing capacitance. In a low voltage (car / caravan) situation all the failures I've come across are a result of poor resistance to water ingress meaning corrosion causes loss of a single chain of LEDs (they tend to be chained in threes or so). LEDs in and of themselves are not a problem, but poor application can soon cause unreliability.

The physical body probably isn't different RHD to LHD. For volume manufacturing you design things like that in. I'm kind of surprised Disco 3 and 4 were like that, Disco 1 had only one shell for LHD and RHD, and the roof ISTR was bolt on (Range Rover certainly was). What is almost certainly different is the wiring harness as just one example. While the engine bay for example will be similar, the instruments, pedals and so on all switch sides. Harnesses are designed in a modular way, so quite often the the car is ordered the harness is made specifically for that car, the ordering computer uses the PR codes for the car and selects the right modules. So I'd be pretty sure you would need a replacement one, and that will NOT be cheap. Also the wiring harness is almost the first thing fitted to the car when its built, and reaches every corner of the car. Imagine the labour to strip it out and fit the new one. You would also need, most likely a new steering rack, new wiper motor assembly and arms, new headlamps new dashboard / fascia moulding to name just a few. Then the whole car would need to be re-coded to tell it it's LHD instead of RHD. It could all be done with time and money, but it really isn't something that is even remotely financially viable.

I'm sure when I changed ours it was a 2032. It was new enough when we bought it to have come from the factory like that. But it's a few months ago now so I could have dreamt it.

As others have suggested. If you really mean converting in full (like moving the steering wheel from the right to the left), it would cost less to set fire to your RHD car and buy a LHD one. But just making it LHD market compatible (lights mostly) could be do-able. I helped someone do this to a Mitsibuishi Outlander. The replacement headlamps were a silly amount of money and turned out not to be original but poor copies and damaged in transit. For the rear the replacement lamps were also not good, but the wiring had to be adapted. This said, if it were me, I'd still have sold the car in it's home market and bought a replacement in the new place.

You shouldn't need a code as far as I know. The radio should recognise it's own car. I can't guarantee that, but it's been my experience with our recent cars.

It's been standard for many years (at least 30) on mainstream cars that only the surfaces you contact are real leather. There are a few specialist brands that use hide for the whole seat. But then again they also use it across the dash, the roof, and indeed most of the interior that isn't wood or carpet.

Though I'd tend to agree, mine definately looks different to the OPs. As I described, it's squarer and larger. I'll try to take a photo at some point.

Well mines a diesel with SCR, so maybe on mine the AdBlue tank hides there?

Mine has a more pronounced bump in that location. Bigger and squarer but for certain different to the other side.

Most cars use the indirect system as already described. They compare wheel rotation speeds and if one changes relative to where it was set. We had a couple of false warnings on our 2016, and it never showed which wheel. We now have a 2018, and it correctly showed which wheel was the problem, and had a small screw in it. Some cars (and other vehicles like caravans) use a direct pressure method. This can be either with a sensor mounted inside the wheel, or for aftermarket a special valve cap. The sensors send a signal to a receiver using a radio link. It has the advantage of being able to detect pressure loss more quickly (which is really important on high performance cars) or where there is no ABS sensor system (like caravans).

It's certainly going to be a tricky one to get resolved. I would have expected that if the data is correct (and even if the old set had become corrupted, the update should have properly replaced it) then essentially the system should simply be looking at your current location and reading the data. However I suppose it's possible that the data is done in sections, and if the section in question hasn't changed since the existing version, the update won't replace the section that has become corrupted. All supposition of course. Another extremely unlikely possibility is that there's an issue with the GPS signal. But you'd be able to tell if that were the case, because the map would also show the wrong location. I guess that's not true. The software in these systems is extremely complex, so it's unlikely the dealers themselves will be able to go straight to a fix. Even SUK will need advice unless it's a well known issue, in which case a TPI will have been issued so SUK would be able to advise the dealer. I agree the most likely is either a SW corruption or a database corruption in the main unit (in the glovebox) as that drives the central display directly. I'd advise trying to get a passenger to take a video of the issue to give to the dealer to help convince SUK there is a problem.

No probs. Have added to that thread.

OK. So its speed warning. Either set from the central display, or by a menu in the instrument pack. Sorry can't remember which. Rather than switching off, you set the speed to something very high (I seem to remember). Have a look through the menus for speed warning. There's also one for winter tyres, as mentioned. You can turn that one off.

My understanding is there are two different systems: 1. Speed limiter. This phyiscally stops you driving above a certain speed, unless you override it by pressing the pedal past the detent. However this does have controls on the left hand stalk, the same as cruise control. Even on cruise control models you can switch between cruise or speed limiter. Cruise is different, in that it holds a speed without you pressing the throttle pedal. On some cars there is ACC where a radar also keeps your distance, but this isn't Standard on any Mk3 (AFAIK) and I don't think was even an option. 2. Speed warning. Set in the instrument pack as far as I know along with other trip computer options. Doesn't stop you going to fast but beeps at you if you exceed the set limit.

Did you not see the previous replies on your own topic about your satnav speed limit readouts? You never replied to say whether you had checked how up to date the database is.

Does the car have a towbar? I had a problem some years ago when water got into back of the towing socket (grey one) which had a permanent feed and drained the battery somewhat. The kodiaq factory electrics seem to turn off the supply when there's nothing plugged in (at least the permanent feed isn't, and only comes on a few seconds after connecting the plug).

I'm going to be a pendantic 'person' here: DLR = Docklands Light Railway. DRL = Daytime Running Lights. (Or lamps). I do know that for certain LED headlamps within VW AG, they made sure dealers could repair them with repair kits and training. No idea if that's still the case.

Do they not also indicate which belts are fastened or not? So that you know if the rear seat passengers have fastened their belt?