varaderoguy

Okay - this sound like the throttle control unit has been miss-calibrated. All modern Octavias use "fly-by-wire" accelerator pedals which connect electronically to the ECU. It sound like either the throttle control unit either is not reading the correct default "zero" value and this is causing your default RPM to be 1200rpm instead of 800/1000rpm (idle). This will be enough to experience this fault of creeping speed increases. Ask Skoda Dealer to replace and recalibrate the throttle control unit (completely replace it) and then get them to synchronise and calibrate it up correctly.

Thats useful to know that it wasn't just folk like me who were annoyed by AFS - VRS Owners too! I just tended to disable AFS and that helped.

I think you may have misunderstood me. The price you quoted was for a headlight UNIT change....i know that the standard halogen lamp units are not changable from right to left hand drive.

My partner had a 2016 SE 4x4 with Halogen lamps, so that how I knew of this particular issue.

So to help on this question, I asked how much it would be at my local Skoda dealer last year (when I was planning a trip to Czechia). They said it would be £180 per light inc workshop time (from RHD to LHD). The cost of moving them back was £30 (just labour), so Skoda know this issue and have priced accordingly.

It was a thorn in the side on my 2016 Scout. I complained to Skoda UK, but was told this was a normal reaction to the driving style. The basic problem comes from the fact these headlights were taken directly from the VRS without mods. They work well at fast rapid speeds, but are hopeless around town. I use to regularly have the right headlight pointing into the bushes or shining into an oncoming vehicle (not ideal and not good for rural Scotland). I was sooo glad when I shipped in that car for LED lit beasty.

Try deleting each phone's paring from the radio; make sure your phones have unique names. Do this for both car profiles. Try giving your car-name something different (in-case a character is triggering a F/W bug). Driver 1 - re-pair their first phone. Accept sharing on contacts. Make sure you are happy. Driver 1 - re-pair second phone. DO NOT accept sharing on contacts. Driver 2 - re-pair their phone. Accept sharing on contact. Make sure you are happy....check to make that Driver 1's contacts are not there. Driver 2 - re-pair second phone. DO NOT accept sharing on contacts.

From personal experience, I had to relearn my driving style. The VW group TDi engines need to be driven harder; but our driving styles and the way the car is geared ditate we should be less harsh. I agree that it is heat that is needed to perform a proper re-gen. Try dropping from 6th to 5th if a re-gen is started; you can find that DPF's can block-up especially if at any point in their life they have done lots of slower/town driving. I had recorse of a person who saw the DPF light on their car, ignored the problem and went off around Europe in their Octavia....DPF light didn't come back on again.

Yes, and it Sux's because it doesn't work properly.

As a temporary work-around; I suggest you switch-off your contact sharing option on your phone. On my Note 10, go into settings-> Connections-> Bluetooth and find the car - click on the cog wheel (for settings for that bluetooth link) and *disable* Contact Access. That will stop the car radio from sync'ing it self with your phone. Very odd though - that hasn't happen on my Scout not on my husband's 2018 SE1.0. The only way this could (in theory) happen is if the Bluetooth MAC address for both devices was the same and your Bluetooth sharing name was also the same....but that would be exceptionally rare setup. Do you have an location or other contact sharing apps on your phone??

MENU -> Settings -> Personalisation.

That just sounds like a firmware bug on the radio. The trouble is that the syncronisation process is generally a two-way process. Are your phones Android or Apple devices?

Folks - I had this with my Bi-Xenon headlights on my 2016 Octavia Scout. Seriously nightmare - and the ONLY way I could get the lights to play nicely - was to drive fast. In essence, the steerable headlights originally came from the VRS range of cars, and they got put directly into the other Octavia's without any mods. The headlights are designed to follow your direction of travel and the faster you move, the 'straighter the beam becomes'. Its madning, because you end up with one headlight pointing in one direction and the other in a different direction. Not ideal for the dark nights of Scotand!!!! Therefore, my only solution was to switch off the auto-ness part of the headlights and manually switch them on/off and onto main-beam at the switch....if you do that, you essentially disable the steering mechanism for the headlights. I saw a tech-note from Skoda UK that this behavour was quite 'normal'. I begged to differ. I would suggest to get your vehicle ODBEleven Scanned, and then look at the latest firmware updates for the car, because you may find there is a firmware for the lighting controller which fixes this problem....and no - Skoda dealers don't do updates, because it costs them money.

There is actually quite a simple solution to this; setup PERSONALISATION on the car. Your MIB2.5 system has the option for personalisation and it should seperate out the different users / drivers of the cars and how they connect into the infrastructure. Driver 1 and Driver 2 have different phones associations and therefore different contact books address lists.

Dear all, My mother-in-law's Honda Civic was getting long in the tooth so we shipped it in for a 2017 Fabia SE-L 1.2 110 bhp with 14k on the clock...one previous owner. This car is mint. Colour edition. Quartz Gray with Brilliant Silver roof. Happy days. So - we decided to fit some accessories to it. Mud flaps, door sill Covers, first aid kit and warning triangle...o yes, plus metal pedal covers. Ive installed the metal pedal covers on both mine and my husband's Octavias, so how hard could it be? The Clutch and brake pedals went on like a dream....but the accelerator pedal was a complete pain in the butt. I state this so that people know not to try to install the accelerator metal pedal cover on in-situ. Don't even try it. You will (as I did) end up putting dinks or folds into the metal of the accelerator pedal...not good (I tried to use molegrips). The only way (I recommend) is that you take off the whole accelerator pedal. One electrical collector and three screws(4mm hex) and the pedal box is off. Now take the metal pedal cover and put it into very hot water (to soften the rubber). Using a flat metal surface, put the metal cover face down on a microfiber cloth and press down the pedal box onto the metal pedal. A lot of force is needed, but eventually it clicks into place. Screw the resultant pedal box and newly installed metal pedal into the car. Skoda part number (RHD) for accelator pedal is 5q2 721 647a. The left hand drive version is 5q1 721 647a.

It seems to be a little involved. I found a good video which shows you how to do it on a 2.0TDI Engine on an Audi, but the process is identical for a Skoda Octavia.

So the dealer in Edinburgh said it....and they meant it. I was trying to get across the point that your choices when ordering your new Skoda are greater if you order your car in CZ. As to the Skoda European Tour .....its a real thing. You might like it! http://skodatour.eu

So harsh😁

It sounds like a firmware bug on the MIB system. I had that wobble with my 2016 Scout. Suggest you go down the route of upgrading the MIB firmware....see other threads for details.

Most MK3's (inc FL) which have TDI engines have the oil filler down at the bottom of the engine - means you need a ramp to replace it. I had a PD140 Scout and it was easy - MK3's not so easy....sorry.

Yes - I am suggesting that you can indeed order a RHD Skoda from dealers in Czechia . When I went on the Skoda European Tour - we visit Autocentrum Jan Smucler in Prague and through a translator asked that exact question on whether they would accept orders for RHD cars from the UK. They said yes, absolutely. Their website is: https://www.smucler.cz/ Their dealership puts anything in the UK into the shadows.

**Updated March 2025** The latest firmware version is: 0480 for SOP4.x hardware. 0363 for SOP3.x hardware. 0253 for SOP2.x hardware. **UPDATED May 2021** **Updated Feb 2024** Minimum size of SD card is now 32G **Please note everything on here - is generally warranty effecting - break it and you'll need to pay to get it fixed** Dear all, I thought I would pen down my experience in terms of upgrading my firmware on my 2019 Octavia Scout. I have cleared me writing this piece with the Briskoda Moderators. I have always berated Skoda for the fact that there are firmware updates available to fix various silly niggles on the Entertainment system. I have a Amunsden system (Bolero with Sav Nat). You have to play silly games with your dealer, just so they can look to see if any of your MIB system faults are displayed as a known issues....which is the measure that they use. The point is that unless your car system is seriously glitchy, dealers won't generally touch the MIB system. I am an IT guy, and this kind of thinking (especially with the more modern connected systems) depresses me....the world is told to patch,patch,patch - but VW group choose not to do so unless absolutely necessary. I now understand why....because the MIB2.5 system upgrade that I managed to get hold of for my Scout - took over an hour to upgrade. Time is money in dealers and this is why when dealers do a firmware update, then charge it as a warranty claim. On my system, there were many many patches for 0475. The version of firmware provided by a member on this forum was for 0478. (May21) There are also different version of firmware available. This is an important thing to note: There are generally (for Bolaro and Amunsden) - different software strands: They are: SOP2.x, SOP3.x and SOP4.x - when you look at a firmware version, you will be presented with a version such as 0472 - this says that it is a SOP Version 4.x . You can only update SOP4.x strands with another SOP4.x strand. Therefore, if you have 0472, you can upgrade to 0478. If you have a SOP3.x - e.g. 0359, then you cannot safely upgrade to SOP4.x 0478 firmware. There are people on here who say they can do it, but this is a risky area and you risk bricking your hardware. Now some legal stuff - because Briskoda cannot officially endorse anything that you do to your car (its a forum for Skoda enthusiasts, not dubiously obtained software) and the fact that the forum doesn't want to be sued by VW Group for posting non-authorised/obtained software, all the dealings for firmware has to done behind the scenes. Its sad that way. The firmware files are generally quite large (my copy was about 3GB). So once you have found the appropriate thread for your MIB system (it could be a Bolero, Amunsden or Columbus system), whether it is a MIB, MIB2 or MIB2.5 system, and you have found the appropriate member who has access to the firmware, you will be asked to take a photo screenshot of the system information. You can find that in System Information in the MIB system under Menu and Settings. This information shows the VW part number and the current firmware level. Do not confuse this with the maps/nav version information. If you are brave enough to do the firmware update, my other caveat is that you need to know your way around a PC. I'm a linux guy (which helps), but a good technical expertise level is useful. You will need: The link to the downloaded software An 32GB SD Card - DOS partition and formatted in FAT32 (Linux land it is called vfat) Download the firmware image - it will have a filename similar to: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z . Briefly, that equates to: MST2 = MIB2 or 2.5, EU_SK_ZR are all countries (its a Europe and Russia image) and P0478 is the firmware version. The file is given in this case in a 7zip format (highly compressed). I know there are Windows decompression tools available, but I use 7z command line - in this case "7z x MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z". Make you do this in a new directory (otherwise it write files all over the place in your current directory). You should also file scan the files to make sure there are no virus's. After a while, you end up with a directory full of files. You can safely move the .7z master file elsewhere. There will be a new directory created with the same name as the firmware. Go into this directory and copy the content onto your SD Card. This process will take about 30 minutes all told. Eject the SD and go to your car..... Now connect up the battery charger to your battery and start the charging process. Remember, if the MIB system detects voltage levels below 12V (I think it is 11.8V), it will not allow you to upgrade (or its a bad idea anyhow). Think of it doing an Android upgrade with low battery voltage - not advised. Get into the passenger seat, and go into the glove compartment. Remove your current SD cards in SD1 (and SD2 if you have that slot). Switch on the MIB system and insert your SD card with the firmware on it - into SD1. It must be SD1 slot only. With the MIB system on, press and HOLD the Menu button until you get some hidden menus appear. Top option is labelled firmware/updates. Select it (either press screen or use the right hand knob and press your selection). Select Upgrade as the option you need. The system will go away and read the SD Card and see if there is a firmware update available. If all is working well, the system will reboot and put itself into Emergency Update mode (Scary Screen). You will now right here find if your files are corrupted or not. First attempt at my upgrade....it didn't go well, because I use 7z e as opposed to 7z x flag to extract the files. Once that snafu had been fixed (and I stopped panicking) , and I had the files in the right order in the right directories, all started working. I had over 100 updates - these were mainly CPU related and firmware for the bluetooth modules etc. They take time to process....be patient. After about 60 minutes, the upgrades finishes and the radio reboots - once to ask you whether you want to downgrade your system to the previous firmware level (press cancel here). The system then completes and switches itself off. Leave it for about 60 seconds. After 60 seconds, switch it back on...(in my case, the Scout Logo appears) and the system boot up. All seemed to work well, but I had some minor niggles to content with. 1) The GPS module went AWOL for about 10 minutes, then came back to life. 2) I could not get Skoda Connect to work. Skoda Connect was an interesting one - and I fixed it an interesting manner. I ended up doing a car factory reset. Skoda Connect still didn't work. A quick check with the Skoda Connect app showed I was logged out, so re-registered the car with my login. The app showed all was well and re-registered, but still no Skoda Connect. I left it to do its thing....(got bored). Today - I had another look at the problem....I realised that because I re-registered the car, that all the personalisation options had gone back to factory reset. I had to go into Menu-> Personalisation and re-associate the car with my profile....Skoda Connect then started working correctly. I hope this is helpful for somebody to understand the process.

Dear all, I am keen to explore if it is possible (either with ODBC or ODBEleven Long coding) the lights on my Octavia Scout. My new car (2019 Skoda Octavia Scout TDi 184 DSG) has excellent LED headlights, but the fog lights are a waste of time (and get completely lost light wise with the LED headlamps). Has anybody tried/attempted to upgrade their fog lamp units to the style of lights using in the VRS (ie LED Fog Lamps)? My backup plan is to upgrade the front fog lights to LED lamps, but wanted to see if it was even possible to do the lamp upgrade (add it onto my list of growing upgrades!!!) Many thanks Max