varaderoguy

So - my 32G Sat Nav card arrived from Riga, Latvia today. Original Skoda bit. Placed into my SD1 card slot - fired up the Amunsden - it worked first time,,,no fuss and no errors. You can upgrade from a 16G card to a 32G card without any issues. You do need the original Skoda bit for either your Amunsden MIB1 or 2 system though - no 3rd party coded SD cards, cos they won't work.

Unlikely to be Axle Windup. That generally requires locked diff's and is a result of going around offroading with permanent 4 wheel drive and no slip from the diff. It is caused when you go corners fast in 4 wheel drive mode. You gotta love random massernations from mechanics.

PS - forgot to say that the boot switch on earlier MK3's could be temperamental. The switch is a cheap option.

There are many VAG specialists around the UK. If you don't want to take it to a Skoda Garage (and frankly I understand why you would say that), then if you tell us where in the UK you are based, I am sure that somebody can recommend a good specialist garage.

Page 217 show emergency boot release.

Firstly, check fuses. https://www.autogenius.info/skoda-superb-2010-2011-fuse-box-diagram/ Check F29 under the Bonnet; However it does sound like a cable fault (supplying power to the boot lid release, and rear lights). There should also be an emergency boot release. Check the manual located at: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Model/Superb_3T

Sounds like an earth fault. I suspect that either the tow-bar earth is not correct or loose and the current is finding its way back up the line to earth via Glove Box. Is the tow bar a genuine Skoda one or is it a third party? Who did the work? Fusebox layout can be found here - check that either Fuse 38 or 43 is utilised (for Tow Bar electrics) and not a tap off a lighting circuit. https://www.autogenius.info/skoda-octavia-2014-fuse-box-diagram/

The sensors can be mounted in one of three places: in the dash, in the MIB system or if you have a camera (for Lane Assist) it will be located in there in the screen. So - a sensor failure will show up in the logs. If you can get somebody with either a VCDS or ODBEleven system to scan your car to see what errors are reported, then we can find the sensor part no and then give appropriate costs. Its not generally expensive (sensors are relatively cheap). Its more labour to do the work.

Thanks for the video. When the car is started and in sunshine, can you check out what the car headlights are doing when the switch is in Auto? If they are on (over and above DRL) then you have a faulty light sensor. If they are off, can you then go into the MFD/MIB2, press Menu, Settings, Lights and give us a screenshot. Whilst in Menu, check Display and see what the brightness of the display is set to.

Folks - please ~please~ do not download cheap chinese knock-offs for the Ross-tech system. Especially if you have a newish car - you can brick you car unintentionally and a lot of the early versions of the "knocked-off" or pirated Ross-tech software won't work with modern cars. I know that folk think that Skoda's are cheap and some people have that mentality still, but you will cause damage - your 'purchaser' of the 'knocked-off' VCDS system will disappear when hard-questions are asked and you will be left with expensive repair bills. Please....just don't.

Considering the age of the car, you might also have a faulty physical horn. You can try this (electrically) by applying an independent power source to the horn (+ve and -ve) and see if it works.

Daylight sensors do occasionally go short, but not often. Does your car have AUTO lights or are they manual? Try changing the lights to OFF (if you have AUTO lights) and see what happens. If it gets brighter, its a sensor...if nothing happens, then firstly check the fuses. Have a look at this: https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-superb-b8-3v-2015-2018-fuse-box-diagram and look at Fuse No 8 (Light switch, rain sensor, diagnostic connector, parking brake, lighting of the instrument cluster) and see if it has blown.

I would (if possible) try and aim for a facelifted VRS (the one with the split headlight) - as they are better cars all round. All of your colours are generally available and most VRS's tend to have red stitching anyhow internally. Like most VAG cars, if maintained, they are very good vehicles. 18" wheels are a good bet - nothing is gained by having 19". 230bhp gives good shove and the cars can be easily chipped if you need extra go. As we are at the end of Covid19 and the MK3 is in Run-out, then there are some superb deals to be had. Be honest and see what you can do; there doesn't tend to be a huge amount of slack in the car market these days; negotiations around £500-£600 are typical or you can bargain by asking for extra accessories and add-ons to make it your car.

Phil - I've responded to another of your postings. Autotrader have a large range of VRS's available. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?sort=relevance&postcode=td145js&radius=1500&make=SKODA&model=OCTAVIA&aggregatedTrim=vRS&price-from=15000&price-to=17000 I would have a chat with either Marshall Skoda or Horton Skoda - as they tend to stock a good range of cars.

Really recommend you get that waterpump changed ASAP in that case. If a seal has gone in the waterpump, then you are snookered. If the impeller is dying and putting stress on the internal bearing inside the waterpump, that would also cause that "chirp" noise.

Well, on that basis, you could do no worse than an Octavia VRS. If you liked the Golf GTD, then can if you can find a Octavia VRS TDI184 (manual), then you will have a same good car, but costing a lot less. If you really want to go to town, then try a Octavia VRS Challenge (245BHP). There a good few low mileage examples available: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?sort=relevance&postcode=td145js&radius=1500&make=SKODA&model=OCTAVIA&aggregatedTrim=vRS Challenge . I personally think that the TDI184 engine is a cracker. You can find that engine in a number of other specs (SE L or L&K versions or occasionally in a car such as my Scout).

Folks - we have been discussing this elsewhere on the forum - speak to @PetrolDave because he has experience with upgrading the SAT Nav Card to 32G on his Amunsden. I've actually found that on my MIB2 system that 13G Maps (ECE A1 maps 20/21) *DO* fit on a 16G card, but I am going to be upgrading my sat nav card to a 32G (its on order from ebay).

I would definitely recommend getting the cambelt AND waterpump changed at exactly the same time. The 1.4 litre engine (from the Yeti era) is also prone to impeller breakup on the waterpump; the newer replacement waterpumps fix that problem. Cambelt - as has already been mentioned is also important. Its not so much usage as age on these things. I know it is an expensive service, but it is well worth getting it done if you want to keep your Yeti in good shape.

I was going to try out whether it was a straight swap between a proper Skoda SD NAV 16G card and a proper Skoda SD Nav 32G card. Its odd that when the maps recently were released for 2020/2021 year, they only initially released the ECE1 maps (the 32G variant); two days later, the full range of separate maps were released. I know where this rumour started; it seems to be a confusion over people wanting to try and LICENSE Sat.Nav functionality onto their Discovery+/Amunsden systems (it was an issue for MIB1 systems - with some of those system providing a NAV button, but it lead to screen saying Unlicensed function, speak to Skoda dealer) and those people folk who wanted to upgrade their memory cards, because the maps were getting too large. Somewhere down the line, the two though processes seem to have been mingled (not helped by vague postings on ross-tech forums). I will be guinea pig - and will post the results categorically on here. For the record, I have a MIB2 Amunsden system.

Battery is always a good starting place. The CANBUS system gets REALLY upset if the battery voltage is too low and creates a whole load of spurious errors. Assuming that the car is a TSI (petrol) and not a 187 TDI (diesel). Can you tell us what year your car was made/registered? Thanks Max

I suspect this will require the replacement of the solenoid 'throw' which activates the locking pin. First port of call, examine the flap and the the surround to the locking pin. I have seen the rubber surround disintergrate preventing the locking pin from being thrown. Failing that, it will be a new solenoid. To replace it, it involves taking out the boot liner on the RHS. Its not an easy fix.

You will definately need to code in the battery - find the forums where the closest person to you has a VCDS system - get your battery coded in - then your charging problems will probably go away.

Also - to add to this; there is a mod you can do in VCDS that stops the washers from washing EVERY time you clean the windscreen (because it just wastes screenwash). Its not an MOT failure. That is bunkum. To see if this mod has been applied, spray the windscreen up to 10 times. If it hasn't cleaned by the 8th or 9th time, then you may have a problem.

So - yes, you should do the following: Perform a Factory Reset on the car prior to handing it over (to include all personalisation) Remove the car you have in Skoda Connect. The dealers don't ever do it correctly (because a lot of their technicians either don't know how to do + neither do the sales people).

Folks, You might be interested in this: http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-fantastic-mirror-side-marker-in-Audi-DYNAMIC-style