varaderoguy

The Windscreen wipers can only work so far...if you are driving on filty roads and there is a lot of crud thrown up onto the windscreen, the car will complain and temporarily disable your High Beam Assist/Traffic Sign Assist and any other functions that the camera is used for. Better windscreen wiper blades (switch on ignition, switch off ignition, and press down on the windscreen wiper control for 2 seconds....will put the blades into service mode. Wipe them down with a clean microfibre cloth. Ideally replace blades every year. Use a more concentrated blend of screenwash too.

The amplifiers can be....temperamental. Generally, if you are driving the MIB audio setup hard (above 3/4 volume), then it can potentially cause damage to (both your hearing as well as the amplifier). In very cold weather, I suggest that you gently warm up the speakers...don't drive them hard. Without an audio recording, it would be hard to tell if you had ripped the cone or if there is a problem with the amplifier.

You may have to take off the windscreen wiper and let it soak in hot soapy water. There will be a clump of dirt in the washer jet. Use good screen wash (winter concentration) and if you live in a hard water area, try and fill up with deionised water if possible.

This person is tell untruths to you. Its a hack to try and improve performance, but doesn't actually fix the problem. That is probably right - basically a failed turbo just dumping oil into the exhaust or inlet and will just cause the DPF to clog up. You need a DPF clean. Google DPF clean (don't be tempted to shove chemicals at the problem, it needs to come off and be properly flushed out) There are many dodgy / ripped off versions of VCDS; anybody who has a version something like 12.2....avoid them as it will brick your ECU. DPF disabling means removing your DPF - illegal and will cause an MOT failure.

There was a bug what caused lines on any screens that had firmware older the H53; there are numerous H51 and H47 screens out there. Hopefully if it is replaced, you will get a screen with the later firmware (and no, as far as I am aware, you cannot update the screen firmware)

This is a super old thread, but thought I would give my experience with Mobility Guarantee in 2026. In summary - its an *rse to sort out. Firstly, I recommend that everyone get acquainted with Terms and Conditions - https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/content/dam/bluelabel/valid/www-vwfs-co-uk/documents/all-in/skoda-allin-roadside-assistance-terms-and-conditions.pdf especially the section of Onward Travel. I had the most infuriating individual on planet earth who couldn't tell me anything other it was in the "standard terms and conditions". Basically, I didn't play ball.....you get two days of free hire (helpful when the garage takes three weeks to repair anything); you need to pay £50 hire fee; then any unknown fees that are presented at anytime. Unacceptable, vague and helpful. I get that there are people out there who drive cars like they stole them and don't care; that's not me, but it is sharp and pernicious business fees. Its unhelpful and honestly, its VAG being tight and unhelpful.

If you get loads of errors; it is always worth making a note of them....send yourself a scan output; then clearing them, seeing what is left. Voltage issues will always errors on multiple errors.

You can unlock the gateway using ODBEleven.

Good news - Skoda warranty actually works. The repairs were authorised and approved. Skoda Customer Services have also been really helpful too. Car ready to collect next week.

Asking admin to move this to the MK4 Octavia section.....

oh yes. It is really important you tell the car what type of battery you have and replace it with. The alternator outputs different voltage/charging profiles dependant on what you tell the car you have installed.

You need to speak with @pab567 who maybe able to assist. You need firmware 0253 (SOP2.x)

Good news - West End Skoda in Edinburgh have had the car in for the week and eventually come back to me. I have a failed front offside calliper. Sounds like the caliper seals have died. They also found the compressor for the HVAC system also had a major leak. Hopefully all this can be covered by Skoda Warranty.

Every time somebody asks this question, I always point them towards enabling Skoda Surround. On an MIB1 system, this is not shown up, but the audio quality is hugely improved. Wrote an article about this a while back:

Packaging - not made for humans. ROFL. Easy mistake to make.

Okay - replacing battery. Firstly; 10 years out of the OE battery - good going. You didn't say which version of the Octavia you have, but generally you need an 096 style battery. Please check before ordering anything. I tend to use BOSCH or VARTA. A7 Varta Dynamic AGM 096 Start Stop Car Battery 12V 70Ah...A7 VARTA Dynamic AGM Car Battery <i>Innovation with Purpose, Premium Experience, Powerful History</i> VARTA was founded in 1887 Germany, and was established fully in 1904 by delivering the first elect Once fitted, you need to tell the car that you have changed battery. You will need ODBEleven or VCDS to do this. The battery manufacturer is important - use VAR (as manufacturer) and AGM (each MY year has slightly different options) as your type. Change the ampage to 70Ah. The car should now start, run, and charge at 14.2V.

If you have opened up the switch, use some Holts Electrical contact cleaner and some cotton wall buds to clean out the contacts as much as possible.

Chalk and Cheese. MK3 Scout 2013-2016 had slightly juggly springs. Can be corrected with 2017-2019 Scout springs (revised MK3.5 Scout). It is +10mm higher than standard. VRS 2018 revised MK3.5 springs - firmer than standard - less roll. VRS has 10mm lower than standard ride height.

If you have the original switch, it may still be recoverable. Dry it out, use some contact cleaner and see if it works again. New switches are not expensive. Depending on your model of car, some came with a two stage switch and others with just a one stage switch. Two stage switches have an occasional open/close AND a one touch close/open. One stage switches only have occasional open/close switches.

Honestly, completely understand. Try going for one NEW injector at a time in that case. Go for a Bosch part. Refurbished or used will be a world of pain you don't want to go down.

Injectors will only last between 120k miles and 140k miles, so the indicated mileage of 162k is good going. Suggest treating the car to some decent OEM spec injectors to restore performance to your vehicle.

You can see the motors move; can you see the physical flaps move?

A good mechanic can test the injectors for either leaks or sticking solenoid. Typically injectors will do up to about 120k miles before being replaced. Try to replace all 4 if they need replacing. Other things to check: high pressure fuel pump; fuel filter and check for leaks on the fuel injection system too. You could also run several tanks of super diesel though and see if that cleans out the injectors and valves.

Hello there. I think you need to confirm whether they are actually moving or not. Can you try realign of your flap motors first? To realign (recalibrate) the climatronic flap motors on a Skoda Octavia Mk3, turn the ignition on without starting the engine, then press and hold the AC button and the front-panel vent button simultaneously for about 3–5 seconds. Lights will flash, and flap motors will move. If you hear any clicking or no noise then it's either the vertical or horizontal flap motors have stopped working (it's probably the horizontal motor that has failed....common problem)

You need firmware MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T If you ask @pab567 he may also be able to assist.