varaderoguy

Firmware can be found at https://mibsolution.one/ but I never told you that!

Firstly, you need to get the firmware up to 0253 (latest for SOP2.x hardware); then you need to get the licences to enable up Carplay on your vehicle from the Skoda dealer. Though we couldn't possibly endorse, there are also people on here who say they can hack the MIB system to enable carplay, but you are kinda on your own there.

Excellent (with a big tongue in cheek)...not Car came back from West End Skoda on Friday - no fault found. Car broke down on Saturday. Really bad burning clutch smell from the car. Car will move, but is surging and there is a faint clanking noise from the front the car. Honestly, I think the transmission is probably shot. Something along the lines of the DSG transmission pump finally failing. Car is being collected by AA on Monday to be taken up to West End Skoda in Edinburgh. cc'd in VAG Customer Service. I know the car is almost 7 years old, but it has been kept at a really good standard; lots of work been done to it....it has not been neglected.

This sounds like a failed or failing MAP sensor. It can also determine a dirty throttle body (they get gunged up with dirt) or an Air leak in the manifold. https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16490/P0106/000262

Okay - that's odd. My MK3.5 isn't....when it powers down the CANBUS network and goes to sleep, it does power down the 12V socket. Mind you, my car was a run-out so it probably shares some components with MK4 cars.

Re ticking noise. Could be failing coil pack arking to earth or the timing chain adjuster failing. try and see where exactly the noise is coming from.

Downstream O2 sensor has died. This happens quite often.

When was the last time a coolant change was done on the car? Coolant may have got too weak to help cool the car.

If you get a Solar Panel that plugs into the ODB port, this is a better solution that using the 12V socket. I think the 12V socket powers down when the car goes to sleep. Plugging into the 12V socket might cause a Terminal 15 keep-alive error on the car. FIXRAAA Car & Caravan Solar Battery ChargerAA Car & Caravan Solar Battery Charger The THINFILM technology allows a wider spectrum of natural light to be absorbed, meaning the unit can still generate electricity under low-light cloudy or wi

What hasn't been discussed here is fuel types. Where do you fuel your car and what grade of fuel do you run on? Might I suggest running on Super Unleaded (Go for some Shell V-Power 99 RON) and see if that changes the car's juddering. It might well be that you are getting pre-ignition which might be caused by poor grade or quality of fuel.

Did you code in the battery? If not, a lot of your issues will have come from that.

Flap motor has probably failed. They do this. If you get a proper VCDS/ODBEleven scan done, the error will be flagged up there. Not a hard job to replace...more a fiddly job.

Yes - battery wobbles will cause all kinds of problem due the car being a CANBUS type network, it needs a stable battery voltage to operate. Other things to do: fill it up with some super diesel and make sure that you take the vehicle out on some fast high-speed runs and leave it in 5th gear - and let the car clear itself out. You probably need to do that once a week if you are doing short journeys. I also personally use some Cetane improver if you are just using standard diesel. https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html - i use 20ml per full tank of diesel - make a world of difference. Others on this forum feel strongly against that solution though. I can only tell you what works for me. Its also worth scanning the car to see if it is throwing any codes. Any DPF related codes need to be actioned. If you are using excessive oil, this could be a EGR valve issue or stuck piston rings. Some Wynn's Engine flush will clean out any crud and make sure you use good quality VW504/507 5W30 engine oil in your engine and good quality (such as a Bosch filter) in your vehicle.

65,000 miles or about 106,000 kms is probably slightly low mileage, but you are getting to that point where the parts will fail. I suppose it depends on the duty cycle....if you are doing lots of cold starts etc. then the parts will wear more quickly.

Generally EA888 engines aren't too bad for coolant usage. They use a little when doing a GPF regen (pressurisation of the cooling system). Always handy to have some G12evo in stock to top up - check every 7-14 days depending on usage etc.

Requesting this posting be moved to MK4 Octavia area. However, I personally recommend a fresh set of VAG windscreen wipers. They will last exactly one year. Found that third party parts are not as good.

oh yes, sadly it is. Can I suggest that you budget for a set of glowplugs if possible. I state that on the basis that if one has gone, then the others won't be far behind. It will be cheaper to get 4 replaced instead of 1 replaced in the long term.

If people are ham-fisted with the air flow control, this will break (easily) and not open the air flow through the central console and into the rear seats.

My other half had a wheel alignment sorted done in the last three months. He had no issues. Think you must have been unlucky that time. Will keep everyone posted. Service is Friday next week. Thanks Max

That was going to be my next step. If West End Skoda were going to be difficult then I'll head on over there.

It's going into West End Skoda next week. I'll ask them what they can do to look at it then.

As requested: 01 Engine System description: R4 2.0l TFSI Software number: 8V0907115E Software version: 0002 Hardware number: 06K907309B Hardware version: H60 02 Transmission System description: GSG DQ381 Software number: 0GC300044H Software version: 2403 Hardware number: 0GC927711H Hardware version: H06

Hi folks, As an active member, I am often answering questions to the best of my abilities, but this is about my own car - a rare 38,000 mile L&K Octavia DSG TSI 190 limousine/saloon. The car is quite seriously down on power......I mean....it is sluggish. I know it is running the detuned TSI190 engine but it is dog slow. MPG is poor and I am struggling to figure out what is wrong with the car. It gets regularly fed, watered, washed, serviced. The most recent issue was the DSG gearbox which West End Skoda had in for a week. They seemed to do a firmware update which hugely improved the performance of the gearbox making stupid gear change decisions, but performance has been getting worse for a while. No issues that have come up from being scanned and I am slightly at a loss to figure out what to do. Things at the back of my mind: The DSG Pump has been noisy prior to the visit to West End Skoda and it is less noisy now post firmware update. I still think the transmission pump is failing and maybe the transmission is failing because of the lack of pressure in the transmission. The brakes have always been a problem with this car. We picked it up and the calipers were sticking. I do the usual emergency stop on a weekly basis but I think they are still binding. They get cleaned and checked every 3-4 months. Cannot seem to get good fully working brakes that don't bind (although they feel good and sure when braking). Due to the way the second hand car market is, car prices are bonkers. I've had a DSG fluid transmission change, new battery,4 all-season tyres, so feeling less inclined to change it. I need to get the issues resolved first but would probably look at trying to get the power upped to 230bhp minimum as it feels so sluggish. Does anybody know of a REALLY GOOD VAG specialist who are proper car people and understands my (properly OCD) brain and would be willing to look at this as a fix it and also potentially upgrade the car - prospect? Happy to travel to find the right people. Thanks Max

If you go for the same make and battery type that is a goerz otherwise you really need to code it in properly.

Two things: EVAP system - if any of the solanoids have failed, this will flag up as a fault on the car. Please get the car scanned via VCDS or ODBEleven Fuel Cap - is this the original cap or is it a replacement cap? If replacement, then please try to source a genuine OE spec cap.