varaderoguy

Yes, this is true.

Before you get into expensive repairs, have you tried replacing the Coolant Header Tank lid? These have a known weak point; the pressure relief spring sticks and causes over pressure in the header tank which then dumps the coolant down inside the engine bay and onto the floor. Get a new style lid and see if that fixes the problem first. https://www.amazon.co.uk/febi-bilstein-103522-Radiator-expansion Febi-Bilstein kit is generally quite good - £8. Typically you will be looking at 30-40UKP for an OE part - speak to the parts team at TheSkodaShop in Lincoln for a price.

Fill it up with super diesel and take the car on a 100 mile trip.....remember, constant high revs, switch off auto stop/start. That should clear it out. Lots of foot flat to the floor action....it will probably be a bit claggy at first, but will improve as the car and exhaust gets hotter.

Shell V-Power or any decent brand Super Diesel (Esso, BP or Texico) - Tesco fuel is the same as Esso fuel if that helps. I used standard diesel with 10-20ml of Cetane improver from Hydra Int - https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html

Not dust. Electrically, they just die. Not super common on ACC sensors, but they do fail none-the-less. Yes, it will need to be swapped out and yes, it will need to be coded into the car.

We have our resident in-house expert @pab567 who will be happy to answer your queries.

Couple of things to check: 1) Oil Consumption. If you are constantly topping up the oil, then know that your piston rings are on their way out and oil is ending up in the DPF - and hence regen'ing. 2) Failed EGR valve. These usually fail open and will also cause all manner of crud into the DPF - causing it to block 3) It could just be that your DPF needs cleaning. This is a cost effective thing to do. One thing that needs to happen when you do this is that you need to reset the soot counter, otherwise DPF regens will continue. 4) Suggest running some super diesel or use a cetane improver (my recommendation on this last point usually end up in a flame war, but it work for me IMHO). 5) Take the vehicle on a long fast drive. A lot of the time, the regens's need to complete fully and it needs fantastic amounts of heat to do this....keeping the car running hard and fast (keep it in 4th if 5 speed and 5th if 6 speed). If DSG, then use manual and keep up the revs. Don't be afraid to give the absolutely foot flat to the floor beans (check your oil level first though).

I remember something about you also having to code in the Alternators....I know you have to code in the batteries, the ECU needs to know about the serial numbers and capacity of both the battery and alternator. Just looked at the video and it looks like you have a misfire or a cylinder not firing correctly as the engine is moving around in an unbalanced way. Failing injectors would throw a code though; a failing glowplug would also throw a code. Failing that, we are looking at an air leak via the PCV valve (a common failure point - often doesn't throw a code here). When you plug in VCDS, does it show the current voltage? If its running anything less than 14.2 volts, then the alternator is not doing its thing. How old is the battery? If its still original, it will be dying right now...consider this something to urgent replace.

I can recommend a VAG specialist over in Doncaster. German Car Specialists, Unit 6 guildhall industrial estate, sandall stones road, kirk sandall, Doncaster. A good friend of mine works there called Rob; they service Audi, BMW, Mercedes as well as Skoda and Seat cars.

Module 13 is telling us that the Sensor at the front of the car - the ACC sensor - has failed. Its tested it numerous times, but the module either doesn't respond or is not responding correctly.

If you do a code-scan, you will find that the car will probably be telling you that you have an open-circuit connection to the aerial. Suspect it will be a break in the tracking of the aerial in the rear window.

Make sure you still have the correct AGM mode selected and make sure you put in the serial number of the battery (its bad form to just put in zeros or ones into the serial number) and make sure you tell the alternator of the new capacity too.

oh no - absolutely not. Bunch of ruffians over that part of the forum! In all honesty, cars drive great, but I don't rate the design plus the MIB system is a touchscreen nightmare.

I honestly suggest getting yourself a ODBEleven reader. Getting generic readers causes more frustration and problems than it resolves. You then just need to download the app for iOS or Android. Even if you get just an ODBEleven Gen2 dongle (ideal for the MK3 Octavia) - £52.89; this can read codes properly and give you better diagnostic output. https://obdeleven.com/products/nextgen-obdeleven-device

Make sure the lovely grandkids didn't shove a 5p piece into any 12v socket or damage any USB sockets....that's the usual thing

This is why going for OE Parts is sometimes the best thing to do; Skoda offer a 2 year warranty on all parts (and labour) so whilst it is more expensive, it might be worth it if there if something goes wrong. As to why you keep failing on emissions; that could be a number of things (not just Lambada sensors). I might suggest running on some Super Unleaded for a couple of tanks and making sure that you give your car an italian tune-up. VAG engines DO NOT like being tickled along....drive it like it was on an autobahn....fast and furious style...you need to keep the revs up (and if you have a DSG, put it into manual mode to hold the revs up). Do a long journey (100 miles plus) and your car should be running a LOT better. Check things like air filters too (in case they are clogged up).

That should be grand. All depends on whether you have stop/start on your car. If you do, you ideally need to code in the battery (to tell the ECU) that you have a new battery, the capacity and battery type. If you don't have stop/start, its just an easy swap....and yes, the 096 battery is the correct type for your car.

Check the tracking and check the suspension. IMHO Octavia's are known for breaking springs (I've had several go on me). Check the springs and the dampers. Please note that the Scout suspension is unique so make sure you have the correct parts for any that you replace.

No - the MIB2 and 2.5 systems require you to connect a USB connection from your phone to the USB port to get Android Auto to work. You also need to upgrade the firmware to 0480 (it fixes some performance problems with AA) You didn't say what type of dongle you used? I honestly use the best dongle out there: https://www.aawireless.io/en/products/aawireless-two and whilst it is more expensive than the Chinese stuff on the market, I find it actually works out of the box.

Just out of interest, have to you tried upgrading the audio to Skoda Surround?

They are dreadful tyres. Honestly, I've been running Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen 3 All seasons tyres on three cars we have owned. Those tyres are brilliant and ideally for the cooler weather we are experiencing. Highly recommended. Probably worth getting a wheel alignment done too after installing new tyres as the Octavia's can throw their tracking really easily if you aren't careful. Probably a 4 wheel alignment if you can find somebody with a Hunter system and the correct Skoda Octavia profile.

We need a proper scan in that case.....I will not comment further. It will be either the Rain, Humidity, Light sensor; the external temperature sensor, blocked heater matrix or low gas on the HVAC.

I would suggest getting the air conditioning gas checked in that case. It should be done every 2-3 years and also ask for some UV die to be put into the system to detect leaks. Get the Schrader valves changed too (high side and low side)

Before you head down that rabbit hole, can I suggest you check the external temperature sensor has not failed (a common failure) and possibly the rain/humidity sensor under the mirror has also not borked. MK3 (not the facelift 3.5's) - had a dodgy humidity sensor that failed (the one below the rear view mirror) and causes the fan speeds and temperature settings not to work properly. A quick scan of codes would see confirm if that was the issue. re: waterpump. If the car is coming up to temperature and sits nicely at 90C, then it probably isn't the waterpump. MK3 (not 3.5's) had the dodgy plastic impellers that fail. Usual signs are a overheat, then recovery, then complete failure. If you've had a new waterpump since 2018, it will probably be the new type that don't fail. Don't forget there is also a secondary coolant pump in the cooling system that is used especially if you have stop/start. Other things to check: have you removed the silica bag of doom in the coolant header tank? If this splits, it will get into the heater matrix and stop it working (it will also get into the engine block too, so that will need urgently addressing).

Try lubrication with some silicon spray on the lock mechanism first before you delve into replacement. Try and work the lock several times, see if that works. If no joy, then its a new door lock motor that will be needed.