varaderoguy

By any chance, is your Octavia a 4x4 version? If so, the cardon shaft balancing weights have a nasty habit of dislodging and causing shaft unbalance. Other than that....check the exhaust is not rattling in any of its mounts.

Fzzz - sound of my brain working on two different problems....Its Module 1 - apologies.

There is a posting at https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/5807/reset-dpf-calculated-value which shows you how to reset the values. Its module 1 when you reset the values. Appreciate you have put some cleaner through, but I suggest firstly, run on some super diesel for a while (for the cleaners and additives) and take your TDI on a bit of a trip along the M62 to get it nice and hot. Remember; the values are calculated values, so whilst the cleaner will try and get rid of as much soot as possible, a car of your year and running around a city is not good for it. In an ideal world, you should really get the DPF cleaned out. You should probably pay about £300-400 to get this done. My advice long term, take your vehicle out for a good long fast run along the motorway for an hour or so (try to cover at least 70-100 miles) and allow the car to do its own regen.

If you go search in the other parts of the forum, you will find people local to you who have VCDS. Otherwise, you need somebody locally who has ODBEleven. If you have a VAG vehicle, I suggest that you go purchase an ODBEleven dongle yourself. An ODBEleven Gen2 will be fine. I think you will need to go to the Pro plan to get access to reset the metrics for the DPF in Module 01 Engine, but I could be wrong here. At the time of writing, they have a 25% discount deal on. https://obdeleven.com/products

ooooohhhhh.....eyks - honestly - I wouldn't trust anything other than VCDS or ODBEleven to read a VAG vehicle.

Its worth checking the MY year on the first set and second set of torque values. The second doc with the higher torque settings which was published in 2016 - makes reference to the correct engine, but it is in relation to an Audi as opposed to a Skoda. I would stick with the first set of values as that does seem to cover your MY year.

I think an investment into that £2.80 amazon brush that clears out the drain is probably worth it in that case. Well done for getting it cleared.

For MK3.5 cars, it should be fine. Try not to get the highest output; try to use proper bulbs from Osram or Philips. Use a bulb with a colour temperature of 5500k. You might need to manually wind down the beam to its lowest level and beware that (at least in the MK3 halogen lights, they can be overwhelmed by extremely bright lights).

I will counter that argument. I've had Octavia's with manual boxes and a fluid change makes a massive difference - I've done mine at about 40k miles; mainly for the gear changes and knowing that any dirt and metal will be removed from the gearbox.

Batterys do die. Typically, 7-8 years on an original Skoda battery is fairly good going. I hope a 096 AFM rated at 70Ah battery will fix things for you. Don't forget to code in the battery!

Arh - the drain pipe has either split/broken or has come off its connector. Try removing the panel off the A-Pillar and see if you can find anything there (do it on the side where the water ingess is)

The Skoda garage (when I had it done on my 2019 Octavia TSI 2.0) basically said that it is a hose-off at the bottom radiator - lowest point - drain it all out. Refill - fill up via header tank using a pressured airline if you have it, otherwise don't worry; using VCDS/ODBEleven, tell the car to purge itself and it will "burp" itself over a period of about 5 mins - keep an eye on the coolant level and don't let it drop below minimum.

I don't think it is personally.

oh goodness... The drainholes do get easily blocked. I think there are two drains - one at each front corner. They need to be kept clear. As its plastic pipe, it can also become split or broken. In which case, you need to remove either headliner or if the break/drain disconnection is near the sunroof connection, then you might be able to remove the sunroof and reconnect it gently. Either way, its an ar5e. I was concerned about what you used to clear the blockages. If you use a metal coat-hanger, then there is a high chance you broke the plastic piping. You need very small drain rods. See this from Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/Sunroof-Cleaning-Flexible-Cleaner-Dredging

You cannot go from SOP3.x firmware (i.e. P0369T) to SOP4.x firmware (0480T) on Amunsden or Bolero units. Saying that - a lot of people have hacked their systems to make it work, but you risk bricking the unit if you get it wrong.

If you introduce a little Cetane into the fuel, then you will get better fuel consumption. Proved that theory over 50,000 diesel miles on my previous Scout. Super Diesel tends to improve the burn rate; most low sulphur diesel fuels don't have any cetane in them. The key (as previously discussed) is long, fast run and getting the car nice and hot.

You have to be careful. If you don't use a remote, all VAG products will "forget" the keyfob.....whether by accident or by design, I don't know. Best to use the spare keyfobs occasionally.....

Well, potentially yes. The Aux water pump is there to keep coolant running around the system when the car goes into stop/start mode. Without it running, you will suffer from slow heating up of the heating system too.

LED's do wear out and your car is now 11 years old....but here at Briskoda, we like to keep things running as long as possible. Disassembling the highlight is not a 5-min job. A lot of that work will be labour. The electronics will be cheap to replace. Typically, it will be between 380-450euros for repair, so expect to pay this. Shop around; find a reputable repairer.

I think you have kind of answered your own question here. You need to do a LONG LONG run. A 10 min journey with a TDI is like death to it. It won't survive. Take the car on a minimum 100 mile journey - develop a heavy right foot and give the car some BEANS. (check the oil/coolant before you head off though). Plenty of foot flat to the floor. I also suggest filling up the car with some super diesel if possible. The engine needs to get frantically HOT and for a period of minimum of 20-30 mins for a full regen. A long journey at least once a week will help save your Scout. P.S. don't do a DPF delete. In most countries, it's not allowed and causes problems passing state testing/MOT testing etc

Forced regen's are not easy to perform. The tech should know that there are certain parameters that need to be forefilled including engine temperature (and if my memory serves me correctly) includes a number of failed regen's. If you are below a certain number of regen events, then no regen is allowed (it starts, then stops) and if the car constantly fails regen's, then it will also not do a forced regen - requiring a DPF to be removed and manually cleaned.

Sounds like you've installed the wrong springs....

You canny go wrong with Sealey 3 Ton Axle Stands....

Arh - if you have white crystals around the water pump, then it is probably likely your water pump is on its way out too (probably failed seal)....try the header tank cap first; if that fixes it, great, otherwise its water pump and aux belt time.

If you look down the back of the header tank, you will see a channel for excessive coolant to escape. That just dumps it onto the ground.