hell666

GM! Sorry for a delayed reply as I was not actually checking this website from long. Glad to see this thread alive now, welcome sneon! @sneon, you can make your own adaptor as described in the above link shared by Majonez or you can use something readily available as in here. This is what I used to get started, a very simple and helpful tool indeed. I have improvised it by writing my own C code to log messages of my choice and with many more helpful options to it. After I was done with the start-up with this tool, I ordered this Microchip Adaptor. This is what is currently in my car as an integrated adaptor. It does many things in it like running and turning ON the upgraded 12-way speaker system Amplifier and keeping it "alive" while the car is running, controls the MFSW controls, etc. I have also built another CAN Adaptor/FIS with Microchip PIC24F as can be seen in the pic I have pasted above. As of today, it displays a lot of parameters in car like Speed, RPM, Voltage, Temperatures, Doors lock/unlock position, Lights' status, Odometer, VIN, Time, etc. Also, it can do a performance test measuring 0-120 kmph in time with break-up's of 20 kmph per slab. A lot more functionality was in the pipeline when I had to sell my car, so currently it stands where it is today and guess will remain that way. :(

GM, As the topic says, I would like to reach the recirculation valve of my AC system. The reason being air from outside is getting into the car even when the valve is engaged. I was successful in dismantling the blower motor but just not able to take it any further. I can reach my hands to the valves and can feel the edges on the valve which have been clearly chewed off by rats, leaving gaps through which air from the outside is being sucked into the car, very annoying. Any one here know how to get this thing off please? Do I need to get the dash off to reach this part? Thank you.

CANBUS system shuts off power, at least most of it (sparing around "0.33v" for internal diagnostics) when it detects there is no bulb or that the bulb is fused and it does this on both the sides; LH & RH even if the defect is on just one side. The power is once again enabled (provided the bulb is fixed) only after turning the ignition off and then on (if the ignition was already in the on position) or simply by switching off and on the parking lights switch (with Ignition off). Are the LED's "error-free"/CANBUS compatible? If yes, turning off the parking light switch off (with Ignition off) and then rotating the LED by 180degs should do the trick and the warning light on the dash should disappear when the ignition is turned on. A lot of LED's nowadays are "bi-polar", meaning you needn't turn them by 180degs if they fail to light up in one direction (polarity) as they are designed to work in both directions just like halogens.

As suggested above by Ryan, you probably need this Fakra Adaptor And as for the space, there is just enough space in one spot to shove all the wires in and fit in the HU perfectly. For me, the spot was bottom right corner, a little here and there, and the HU would not go in.

Were you able to extract any CAN Message ID's from the code?

Did you try? http://www.skodateile.cz

Great going Majonez, I'm sure you will crack the code soon! Here is the LOG you had requested for, I hope it helps. Reverse starts at [20:23:02.536] and ends at [20:23:13.144]. And here is the log for messages without engaging reverse/PDC. BTW, a little observation I made by comparing the 2 sets of messages: ID's 67a, 6ca, 291 and 5c1 seem to be specific to the PDC, you may want to look into these closely. FYI, my HU is a Chinese one and not a RNS510 as rightly observed by you. It does automatically come ON when reverse/PDC is engaged. I can relate to your obsession on making this work and not go the easy way round replacing the PDC, that's the reason I have not replaced my HVAC controller to the newer one which would solve the problem, but want to find an alternate solution instead, especially when I have the hardware ready and already in place. Please let me know if you still need any other info from me/car, more than glad to help you with your quest.

Good luck Majonez, don't forget to post results here, it could be of help to others.

GM, Another reason I have given up on MFD-FIS is that I have different plans on implementing the same. I'm currently working on developing a stand-alone simple FIS based on a PIC24F uC and 128x64 LCD. The bare-bone hardware and software (firmware) is ready, now only need to create interface like menus and user inputs (using buttons on board). Not getting time to complete it as I have just a few hrs of Sunday every week. A sample display is attached here, which is just a little test data without any actual link to the car. Yes, my OPS is fully working and here is the log as requested by you. It contains all messages on the Infotainment/Comfort CANBUS and were recorded while reversing the car: Download BTW, yours is a FL or a pre-FL?

BTW, I was partially successful in manipulating the MFD/FIS but gave up after a while as it required a lot more time and effort to complete it. If you are interested in it, messages 0x680, 0x681 and 0x661 may be of help to you: [00000680]: [0d 50 4c 45 41 53 45 20] --> [-- P L E A S E ] [00000680]: [1e 57 41 49 54 08 ] --> [-- W A I T -- ] [00000680]: [00 4f 74 68 65 72 73 4d] --> [-- O t h e r s M ] [00000680]: [11 65 64 69 61 08 ] --> [-- e d i a -- ]

No luck yet, have posted on various sites on the internet including Golf (MK2) forums, but not very helpful. Thanks for the info on OPS. BTW, OPS is sorted by upgrading my Partktronics (PDC) Adaptor, now, the only missing functionality on my HU is the HVAC. The old format messages on my existing HVAC can easily be extracted by bench-reading them after disconnecting the Adaptor from the car, however, what do I translate to is the question here as the new format of the messages is what is missing here. FYI, comfort and infotainment buses are the same on a pre-FL and since HVAC settings are supported/displayed on HU in both the FL and the pre-FL, I assume the CANBUS setup is the same in them both.

1.) Yes, you need it as it controls many functions of the unit such as power on/off, back-light, steering wheel functions, etc. 2.) You can see the white connector coming out of the main wiring loom, this is where it (the Decoder) goes in:

You can bypass the Amp by connecting the output of your HU directly to the speakers. The amp and the connectors are under the passenger seat.

Part of it and majorly is debris from outside sucked inside, while the rest seems to be some kind of cushion behind the dash, probably to seal some thing, but not sure though.

No, I checked the filter while the motor was off and it was perfectly alright. As a matter of fact, the filter is changed every 1 year when the car goes in for its scheduled service. I guess air that is sucked in first goes through this motor and then to the filter, that's why the filter is clean as most of the bits were stopped right here at the motor itself.

Regular clean-up I guess now that I know what's exactly happening and what to expect! I wonder if this is a part of the check-list for a yearly scheduled service though, shouldn't it be?

Thanks John, you just saved me some money! Had this problem yesterday where in the Blower Motor started making a grinding noise when turned on and the whole of the passenger side dashboard was lightly "vibrating". Sounded something like the motor was struggling to turn as something was holding it from doing so. Decided to get the dashboard off to inspect the cause. Everything was going fine when I got stuck trying to get the blower motor off. Then this post came to my rescue, as you have mentioned in point (3) of your post, was able to get it off by pushing the clips down and turning the motor. Was shocked to see so much stuff stuck in the blades, thanks to rodents who have done this. The following pictures should give an idea on what was exactly happening here over time:

Keep away, is my advise, as the saying goes; You get what you pay for! I fell for a similar trap a couple of years back from a seller in China who also sells on Aliexpress/Alibaba. The offer was for a "HTC" though, for around $67. Paid for it and received it within a week. It was a cheap "Made in China" handset with absolutely no resemblance to the one that I had ordered and was offered. The worst part was it wasn't even a knock-off! The only thing it made the mobile "HTC" was the label/engraving on the phone with these 3 letters.

Fitting external Resistors to non-canbus LED's is always better. These "error-free" LED's have built-in resistors that are usually SMD's that are rated to handle not more than a watt of power while they are subjected to much higher powers in these cases. So they heat up really bad in turn and eventually fail. This heat adds to the heat that is already being generated by the on-board LED's (CREE), mutually acting in their destruction. External resistors are designed to handle the right power and can be fastened to the body of the car where they give off heat in a proper manner and work in a smooth way.

I used to think the same until I found out it was the auto-level feature in action which was giving the illusion of "flicker".

That's got me confused now, not sure if it was for the headlights or other lights, sorry! I know you had posted some time back and were hesitant on using the "CANBUS warning cancellers" which are supposedly some kind of Capacitor setup's. Have you tried using Load Resistors instead?

Very simple, hope this link helps on how-to

I had a similar problem sometime ago, opened the stalk housing, cleaned the contacts and the problem was sorted. Now, after a year, it is back intermittently, time to clean them again. BTW, I doubt a mere spray is going to help at all as there usually is carbon deposit on the contacts and requires "scraping" it off.

I remember someone from the forums having disabled it on a Yeti, but don't have the link to it. A search should help.

Had the same problem a year ago, opened and cleaned the Connectors in the Stalk and things have been a lot better now. This post should help you on how-to