hell666

If you are referring to this unit in particular can't really comment, but if you ask of such units in general, I'm one of the owners of such units (looks exactly like Columbus) and am more than happy to have had it. I've had mine direct from China and is in the car for almost 2 years now and not a single glitch till date. I'm very satisfied with it in every aspect of it be it Looks, Navigation, Sound quality, BT, Media, TV, etc. and all this at a fraction of a price that I would otherwise have had to spend on any of the Skoda OEM Units. But then there are people who have regretted their decision by choosing these units, so I guess it ultimately comes down to you to take an informed decision.

Did you check the voltage at these terminals?

Easy to locate, a small hole next to the LHS Fog/DRL where it pops in. The following post should help: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/182091-octavia-tdi-outside-temperature-sensor-location/?p=2216164

Just to add another point to the list; enabling both of the rear fog lamps, a feature I find very useful and was not present in the stock settings of the car.

It's a common issue with this car, to do with a loose Airbag Connector under the seat. I had this too for a long time before I bypassed the connector and connected the 3 wires individually to the corresponding wires on the other side of the Connector. It's almost a year now and the error has never come up. A lot of threads here detailing the problem and the solution, a search might help.

+1 and for Aux-In I guess

Absolutely true, it's not illegal here and it certainly makes the car look 'cool'!

It happens on my Chinese HU too, a good 10-15 secs. Damn annoying sometimes when you need it and you have to wait for it to come up before you start maneuvering.

I use the Fog Lights as DRL's, mainly in the twilight. Apparently not in this case. Trust me, It has changed the polarity on more than 2 occasions and continues to do so, that's the whole confusing part, why??? It's more than a decade I last experienced fog here, but as I said above, I use the Fogs as DRL's only.

Wanted to share this strange experience that I had after changing my Fog Lights to LED's (CREE) from the stock Halogens. Sometime back, I happened to come across these Fog Lights (H8) and liked them as they had quiet a number of individual CREE's in them. Ordered them instantly along with a pair of Load Resistors of 8ohms/50W each to avoid the "CANBUS" error and fitted them immediately on receiving them. The change was tremendous and the lights had outperformed my expectation. All was good for about about 2 weeks when the LHS failed with CANBUS error and MIL on dash for the defective light appeared. Checked and everything seemed fine, there was power at the LED terminals and the Resistor did measure 8ohms still. So I assumed the culplrit to be the Load Resistor, for which I reduced the effective resistance by adding a 50ohms Resistor in Parallel. This did solve the problem and the light started to work again. Put in a similar resistance on the other side too just in case it failed and things looked good there after. I had started to enjoy this new look that the lights brought to my car and all was well for about 2 weeks when the LHS failed again. Was very surprised this time as nothing could be wrong now as I had given very little room for error the last time I fixed the problem by paying utmost attention to all details including wiring, connections and everything in between. Removed the LED from car and checked it at home with a 12v power supply and the light lit up as it should. Went back to the car, swapped the terminals in the H8 holder and fitted the light back only to see it light up again! Very surprising it was to see the polarity change, but then never gave too much thought to it as everything was fine now and left it at that thinking the problem was with the LED. But last week, the LHS stopped working again and then RHS a little while later. This time, when I checked the voltage at the H8 terminals, the polarity had indeed been reversed back!!! To fix this, built a bridge-rectifier with 4 Diodes (IN4007) which would supply a fixed polarity to the LED's irrespective of the input polarity. This has only fixed the problem to an extent as the lights have gone a lot dim now as there is about 1.5v of voltage drop at the terminals due to the bridge in there. Mind that I have not yet implemented the fix (bridge) in the car as I'm currently searching on the Internet for some "very" low-drop diodes to replace them and have found a couple, will be picking them up soon. In the meanwhile, is anyone aware of any setting that can be tweaked with a VCDS that will disable this auto reversing of polarity? I have currently disabled "Cold Diagnostics" in "Central Eletronics." to give it a shot, keeping my fingers crossed hoping this will fix it. If it doesn't, bridge is the only solution I guess and I don't want to revert back to the stock halogens at any cost now as the improvement over them has been tremendous. Why is the system in this car designed this way to change polarity according to its own whims and fancies? Is there any logic/engineering behind this setup or is it there only to dissuade people from retrofitting any such stuff? Anybody else out there who has experinced this?

Did you check the Horn Relay under the Steering? It's the 449 as can be seen in this pic:

I have mine done by them and it now pulls like a train. I have had the map for over a year now and more than pleased with it. Having said that, I must add that sometimes, there is slight increase in smoke when you put the pedal to the metal at certain mid range RPM's, not sure if it is specific to the map or a generic side effect with all remaps.

You will need to fix it into a hole just next to the LHS Fog Lamp, pointing outwards so that it is exposed to air outside, else the temperature will still read crazy numbers.

A mere voltage output will not determine the Battery state, you will need to do a "Load Test" on the Battery. Other that the cranking problem, do you have other probs like the head lights dimming under low revs? If yes, it could very well be the Battery.

Did you check the Battery?

Have tried all; 4300K, 5000K and 6000K, and in my opinion, 5000K is the best. They give that real nice look 'n feel to the car and works perfectly well in lighting the road. 6000K is slightly bluish and 4300 is very slightly hallogenish.

Just a thought; If you can get hold of Load Resistors, try connecting them to the Cree's and see if the noise gets cancelled out.

The Crees here seem to be slightly bluish which in my opinion look tacky. Also, the light is not very distributed as is in the case with these LED's here, so LED's is my choice here.

Here it is, they seem to have good feedback from owners who have remapped their cars: Tune-O-Tronics

No, Let me try to google it out for you. Did you check if Pete's does remap apart from the Tuning Boxes they sell?

Cosworth based in Mumbai does. There is another one in Bangalore, not able to recall the name now.

Sounds like a Battery issue to me, as suggested above, warrants a Load Test on the Battery.

Bought my Osram Diadem/Stealth which are much better in brightness and have a better orange tinge to it than the stocks.

And how are you planning to connect the Tablet to the Car for communication via CANBUS?

Quiet a lot of people have been successful in achieving this; OPS on a retrofit aftermarket HU, including me. Here is a good write-up from one of the members here - Adam: http://www.briskoda....90#entry3151338