hell666

Well done mate, happy to hear that! Waiting for Pics and Guide, should help others now.

That's the job of the CAN Gateway, which is basically a Junction to all the different sub CANBUS Systems like Drive, Convenience/Entertainment, etc. One of Its functionalities is to basically forward Messages from one sub-System to another, in this case, Drive to the Convenience/Entertainment. Another example is the Auto-Lock doors feature, where the doors lock automatically when the car crosses speed of 15Kmph (or configured) by relaying speed messages from Drive to the Convenience System where this speed is detected and an appropriate action, in this case locking of doors is performed.

+1 Sensors have got nothing to do with HU Volume. When Reverse Gear is engaged, a CAN Message is relayed to the Comfort/Entertainment Bus notifying that this has happened. It is based on this Message that the Volume on a HU is controlled. It is the same Message that is responsible for the PDC to be activated which then turns on the Sensors.

I went the Hardware way, a very helpful feature indeed. My previous HU Audience didn't have it nor does my current PDC (xxx 475E ) Controller have.

1.) They point down 2.) About 5cms (max) from tip to tip I used THIS, which has Lens in the front to project light at exactly the right area down under. Also, they have side lights which scatter light around the housing to give a cool look to the Car

+1 on finding the right Garage outside of A.S.S. I leave my Car at the A.S.S only for scheduled yearly services, which involves nothing more than changing liquids and Filter, otherwise it is one of known Garages that I trust for fixes/issues. In my experience, chaps at Skoda A.S.S lack probing skills and are misguiding at best. Source your own genuine parts and get them fitted outside at some trusted Garage. As for your problem, did you get your Wheel Bearings checked? They could as well be the cause.

Yes, when I started off, if I remember right, I got a total of 4+1 Errors, viz., 4 Errors for the Sensors not detected (due to the wiring mis-configuration) and 1 for the missing Buzzer (Open Circuit). After having sorted out the Sensors, the OPS still did not display and every time I engaged the Parking Aid by pressing the Button, I just got intermittent warning beeps with the light in the Button flashing. The only Error now remaining was the Buzzer missing. After having spent hours into figuring and sorting the main Sensors' problem, didn't want to leave it here, especially when I was just that little away from getting it all done. So, gave it a go by connecting a Speaker that was lying around at home, and the moment I did it, the Image instantly appeared on the Screen like a magic charm! The feeling was that of winning a Lottery, or even better! I'm sure you will be able relate to it soon.

Great going! You are just a little away from getting OPS on the Screen. Hope to see some pictures very soon.

You will need the Warning Buzzer for the Front Sensors as wll, without which the PDC will just not work and will throw an error. If you don't have one on hand, you can use any DIY Speaker (4/8 ohms) connected in series to a 20ohm Resistor. This will work but the beeps will not be too loud as the stock buzzer, but will help in eliminating the error for the time being.

Did you try eBay (UK)? I found one here: Edge Insight CS OBD-II Comprehensive Gauge Display!

When the Engine is running and the Car is not, the Engine's RPM's at idle are quiet low to force the Alternator produce enough juice (Current). To add, with all the Loads in the Car running like the Lights, etc., the available charge for the Battery to charge is reduced much further. This will only leave the Battery undercharged resulting in Battery weakening in the long run (due to non-reversal of Sulfation on the Leads within the Battery). This is probably what the reply in the above quote meant.

Just received mine from here yesterday. They seem to be of great quality, at least by closer look. I ran them for quiet some time outside the car without any problems like colour changing or something melting inside. They seem to have good thermal dissipation when connected to the housing, something very important as they get real hot, almost the same as normal Halogens if not more. They are not Error free, so ordered some Load Resistors along with these. And lastly, compared them to my original "white" halogens by putting them in their original housing; these lights are a league apart! The White is so refined and neat and the brightness is at least 3 times brighter. More importantly, the reach is much wider and longer. Can't wait to fit and test them on road this weekend.

FL has the AFS2 with advanced features like Cornering Lights, Bending of lights based on Speed etc. IIRC, what the pre-FL has the simpler version with just the bending functionality depending on the load of the Car, still called AFS.

If it is the AFS, it is placed behind the Dash, back of the Center AC Vents.

What is the Head Unit in your Car? HU's like Audience, Swing, Bolero and Columbus have the display (OPS) capability inbuilt. To get a display on these units, you will need to fit an OEM Parking (PDC) Sensor Kit, aftermarket parking kits will not be able to display on these screens. With the OEM PDC setup, Audio is guaranteed even if the HU does not support display. However, OEM kits are quiet expensive and if all that you are looking for are the "beeps", then aftermarket kits will serve the purpose and save you money too.

Do you have a Voltmeter with you that you can use to check the Voltage across the pins in the Lighter? Are you sure the Phone Charger is alright, does it work fine on any other Car?

The list here should help: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/

I guess it is the Level Sensor inside the Motor unit of the Headlight. When you start the Car, the Lights move and down (dance) before settling down on a level saved earlier in the Memory. I guess there is a loose connection inside the Sensor which makes it fail sense its current position at the first time. Subsequently, the contact gets established and it finds its current position and settles down at the preset position. This could be a reason why only one of the Headlight is facing this problem, because if it was with the Car Level (Suspension) Sensor, both the Lights would act this way. A VCDS scan should hopefully confirm the problem.

There is a setting in Central Electr., don't remember quiet well, but I guess it is one of the Adaptations where you set the time for the cut-off, 10 mins by default and is common to both heated Rear Wind Screen and the ORVM's.

It's the outside temp, the Mirrors do not have any temp sensors. I find this precondition quiet silly actually; it's like saying it will JUST NOT rain when the temp is over 20 degs. It sometimes rains here even at 35+ degs and even though the Mirrors have the capability to demist by heating they will not, just because of this 20 degs threshold and I'm forced to clean them manually. Didn't know on A3 they were interconnected, thanks for the idea, I will attempt connecting mine too once I find time, but first they need to be fixed.

What was the longest you continually ran them for? They contain Cree's, so they will heat up a LOT and when they do, cheap ones tend to change colour towards a tinge of blue, a sign of slow failure. It usually takes over 30+ mins for this change to be noticeable. If yours don't, they most probably are quality ones.

If they have both failed it could very likely be the Relay SHZG/449 giving in. Mine have failed too, just not getting time to check why. To check if the Mirror Element is fine, just pull out the Mirror and connect it directly to the Battery to see if they heat up. There is a pair of Leads of the Heating Element connected onto the back of the Mirror.

Thanks for correcting, never considered the other 35W in the pair! It was typo, I actually meant 24 hrs, and by considering the other pair, theoretically it should last for 12 hrs, but in practice this will be much lesser as pointed out by you.

Factory fitted Xenons in this Car are rated at 35W, meaning they knock off around 3AH of your Battery for every 1 minute they are ON considering your Battery to be a 72AH. At this rating, it would take nearly 24 mins to deplete the juice of it if left on (when 100% charged). If you crank the engine right after having used this feature once or just a few times and run the Engine long enough for the Battery to recharge itself fully, there should be no problem whatsoever. In other words, under normal circumstances, this will not affect your Battery. Halogens are usually rated at 50W+ but can vary quiet a lot. I have seen Halogens rated at 170W! Was wondering if you really need to leave it ON for 1 min? Most I have seen are set to 30 secs, including mine.

Practically, none of them is Earth. They are actually on different potentials (Voltages), the difference in these potentials is what dictates one of two states, viz a 'Recessive' (usually a binary 1) and a 'Dominant' (usually a binary 0) state. Sequence of these 'States' acts like sequence of 'bits' forming the basic unit of data transfer. One of the Pair is called CAN_High which carries the higher potential voltage and the other is called the CAN_Low, which carries the lower potential voltage. Another advantage of having the twisted pair on different potentials is to cancel out mutual interference.