hell666

Just one more thing, the Audience combined with the stock 12-way speaker upgraded system in your car is an amazing one, if you are looking for some good sound upgrade, you will need to replace this amp with some good one which can drive these speakers as the stock one does.

Try to get access to a Ross-Tech (HEX+CAN) Cable, which should be able do the job. Replacing with an aftermarket HU can be done but with a lot of trouble, especially if it is a Chinese one. Some of the problems you will most probably encounter are: 1.) No sound in the Music System because the HU will not be able to turn the Amp on over the Car CANBUS 2.) You will not get the Parktronics on your OPS unless you upgrade the PDC and do some (/quiet) re-wiring 3.) You will not get the Climatronics display unless you upgrade your Climatronics If you are referring to the Passenger's Seat, it is the Music System (Amplifier) Edit: One more major problem with a Chinese HU: 4.) Battery Power drain issue, so you will need to do some re-wiring and probably some electronic gadgetry too!!!

On your queries about Music System: 1.) You will need to diagnose with a VCDS to determine the exact problem 2.) Through a VCDS again, which can display the Manufacture date On Parktronics: 1.) You will need the VCDS again. However, you can manually check for Sensors by engaging the reverse gear (with Ignition ON) and keeping your ear close to each sensor, you should hear tick-tick-tick's, if you don't hear it on any sensor, it most probably is out 2.) Yes, it can all be replaced easily.

Are you sure you are looking at the right Sensor? The Sensor is located right next to the left rear wheel, between the exhaust and this wheel. It is shaped like a "V", with the pointing edge facing away from the car, left outwards (if correctly positioned). This is what you should look for. About the readings, move the mouse pointer over the Value reading box and the allowed values will pop up. If you are not too bothered about the Xenons moving dynamically while the car is on the move, stop worrying about setting with VCDS, open the Bonnet and manually adjust the alignment screws on the Headunit to lower/higher the beam.

Do you have a spare Stereo to try out? If yes, connect it and see if the Fuse still blows. If it does, the problem is with the wiring in the Car, else you know it is with the Sendai Stereo. If it is a wiring issue in the Car, it could be with a "very loose contact" somewhere between from the Fuse Box to the Stereo. If it is a problem with the Stereo, it could very well be a short somewhere within or in wiring of the Stereo.

You will need a VCDS to correctly identify the problem. Was the error? 01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation If yes, it would most probably be the Sensors. Connect VCDS, get into Controller Settings for "Xenon Range" and click on "Meas. Blocks". If it is the Sensors, you will have readings outside the allowed range. You can even visually check for the Sensor misalignment, there are a lot of threads on this here. In short, the Sensor Arm should point away from the Driver's side (should point to the left)

An easy way to check for Sensors was just illustrated by Mike. If it is not the Sensors, get a scan done by a VCDS if you own it or by someone near you who could help you out on this. If you do find the defective sensor, that is assuming it is a sensor problem, try disconnecting it, cleaning the contacts and then reconnecting it, as sometimes carbon deposited on the contact leads could fail the functioning of the Sensors as has been in my case some time time back.

Try this; 1.) Save it as a .BMP in some location of your choice 2.) Now, open this file in "Paint Brush" 3.) Click on "Save as" and choose one of the supported formats (including .JPG)

When you put the Lights ON and crank the Engine, do the Lights go 'down and then up and then settle' or just 'down and then settle'? If it is the latter, you don't need a Vagcom (VCDS) Cable to adjust, it already is adjusted/baselined, just open the Boot and turn the adjustment screws situated in the front of the Headlight to adjust the height.

Looks cool, runs on Android too, certainly a plus point as there are such great software apps available for Android out there. Imagine setting "Torque App" as the main screen on this Unit! I do have a similar Unit in my car with similar features but only that it runs on the archaic WinCE which is so boring and has a very outdated look. Would love to update it to Android if only it was possible.

Not on all Cars, only on most CANBUS ones. It does throw an error on most Cars with CANBUS System if connected without a CANBUS Resistor. To be safe, put in CANBUS-ready ones. But even this does not always guarantee error free fitment.

It's a "Bulb Out" Warning Light, check to see which one is out. Do you have by chance any LED's installed in the car? They could as well be a problem.

Very strange, missing Motor, but why!!!! There are some good deals on eBay you might be interested in.

I don't, I only think it is a potential problem, because it is a good place to begin with. There could be many more problems like the switch connected to the Gear might be defective, the Controller might itself be faulty (at this particular function), etc. Start by connecting a VCDS and then upwards.

When you engage the Reverse Gear, a "CAN Message" asking it to come ON, and when the Gear is disengaged, another Message to put it OFF is sent over the CAN Bus (Cable) that is connected to the Controller from the CAN Gateway (Master Controller). These messages are exchanged over the CAN Bus from the Gateway to the Controller over a pair of Wires (Cable). The Parking Switch you are referring to is connected directly to the controller to activate/de-active it without having to use the CAN Bus. Since the Switch activation of the PDC works perfectly, it would most probably be a problem with the CAN Cable that is connected from the Gateway to the PDC Controller as it seems the Messages are not reaching the PDC all the time. VCDS would come in handy in confirming this. The Controller is easy to locate, which can be found inside the trunk, on the Passenger's side:

It connects to the Sun Roof Controller as follows:

This 'flicker' is quiete common in Cars fitted with Xenons and has been widely experienced by many such Owners including me. It is basically due to the Self/Auto Levelling System of the Xenons which tries to adjust itself by going up/down to compensate for the quick changes in road gradient, which inturn gives the illusion of a 'flicker'. Do you see the flicker intermittently when the road is smooth or is it that the flicker is only on rough roads? If it is only uneven and rough patches of the road, it is most likely the Xenons in action.

Thanks @g_tee Update; I have now managed to fix the Speaker/Buzzer problem, which is by connecting a 45ohms Resistor in Series to the 8ohms Speaker. This has solved the problem of intermittent working of the Parking aid.

Thank you! As a matter of fact, I never look at the Screen while reversing, it is only the Beeps that help me to an extent. All this perseverence was only because it was challenging and exciting to work on something which was otherwise taken for granted to be not possible. The reward for it is a smile I get on my face every time the OPS comes up on the Screen while reversing! Additionally, it now enhances the look of the dash when this mode is engaged.

The Controllers arrived 3 days back but could not get myself working on it till yesterday as I was busy at work. I have replaced both the CAN Gateway and PDC Controllers and the result is that I now get the OPS Display on my Screen of my Chinese HU (but should work on any compatible System like Bolero/Columbus/etc I presume): It goes like this; First replaced my Stock 1K0 907 530 H with a 7N0 907 530, which was very easy. This Gateway was placed right behind the Glove Box, which made the task entirely easy by not having to find it behind the dash in other later models of the Octy II (mine is a 2006). At this point, before putting the glove box back in, I followed the instructions as mentioned in the above GTI website link on connecting the CANBUS Cable to the Drivetrain CANBUS Network (Pins 16 and 6, CAN H & L respectively). I have pulled this cable alongside of the car upto the Boot on the rear end of the Car. Before removing the old Stock Gateway, connected VCDS and took Screenshots of every byte code of the Gateway which really helped me in coding the new Gateway, where quiete a few bytes have changed. After connecting the new Gateway, coded, scanned and all was well, not a single error. Gateway upgrade was complete. Getting the new PDC working was a challenge. Removed the old 1Z0 919 283 C PDC Controller and fitted it with the new one, which is a 1Z0 919 465 E. I had actullay ordered for a 1Z0 919 465 C from Skodateile, but as a goodwill gesture, he (Ales) sent me a later version 1Z0 919 465 E of the PDC. Had to adapt the old main connector with old CANBUS to this new one by cutting off the old CANBUS wires and connecting this new cable at new pins (Pins 6 and 16, CAN H & L respectively) in the T16 Connector as described in the above GTI Link. Connected the other 2 Sensors' Connectors (T12's) to the Unit. Connected VCDS, changed the Park Assist from Address 76 (old) to 10 (new) on the Gateway. There are quiete a few extra settings available on this new controller from the old one, like setting up the PDC type to OPS, the Car type to Skoda and so on, but in all, it was very simple. Connected VCDS and scanned for erros and got a "Mechanical Failure - Rear Sensors" + "Warning Buzzer" on the new PDC Controller. One thing was clear from this that the Front Sensors were ok as there was no error indicating otherwise. Pulled out the T12 which is last from the T16 and is the one for the Rear Sensors, compared it to the Front Sensors Connector (T12) next to it and the difference was easy to spot, which is that in the Front Sensors Connector, there are only 6 Pin Connections (4 for each Sensor and 2 for Common Power) while the Rear Sensors Connector has all the 12 Pin connections (4 Sensors with 3 pins each = 12 Pins). So I assumed that this needs to be changed to the exact format that the Front Sensors Connector has, which is by combining the common power pins of the Sensors into one. Moreover, another Pic I found on the Internet (not sure from where) as shown below helped me in confirming this. This above Diagram only shows the connections in general and not the colour coded wires specific to the setup in my Car. Took a guess and placed the 4 coloured wires in exact same order as in the other connector (Front) and this did the trick. Connected the VCDS and the earlier "Mechanical Failure" error disappeard. But still, one error remained; "Missing Front - Warning Buzzer" one. I knew I needed another Buzzer for the Front beeps but didn't have one in hand. What I had was another 8W spare DIY Speaker, which I tried connecting and to my surprise, it worked!!! The error disappeared and when I engaged the reverese gear, the OPS lit up on the Screen, was such a good feeling to see this after hours of hard work put into getting this one thing done. However, the only problem now is that the Parking aid works intermittently because of the incompatible Buzzer. They are available on Internet for $20+, but before investing so much for such a small thing, I will try to make this speaker work as a compatible Buzzer, and if only all fails, will order a new one. To conclude, it is a myth that you need to upgrade the Sensors to the newer ones I now assume. But mixing the make of Sensors and the Controller is something I really can't comment on. Just for the info, my old PDC Controller was a Valeo make and the Sensors are a 7H0 919 275 C (according to ETKA). Pin-outs with colour codes for the rear sensors connector later when I have time. EDIT: Added the Rear Sensors Connection Diagram:

Update; Upgraded the CAN Gateway and PDC Controller to 7N0 907 530 and 1Z0 919 475 E respectively and I now get the OPS Display on my Screen. The Parktronics now works. For Climatronic, I guess I need to upgrade the Climatronic Controller now. Found one here: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1438.l2649

I just found out that the OEM CAN Gateway in my Car (is a 2006 make) is a 1K0 907 530 H and is a "Made In China", so I guess these units indeed are genuine and have their credentials.

Is the Bulb perfectly alright? Try to connect it to an external Source to confirm. Also, the contacts might be worn, try cleaning them with a contact cleaner or scrape them with a blade and try.

If you have access to a VCDS, connect it and look for errors, which should tell you straight forward what the problem is.

With quiete some effort, was successful in upgraded my CAN Gateway and PDC Controller, now I get OPS on my Screen