Monkhai

Nearly a full wall of south facing glass and an old plasma is fine. Pretty certain either would be no problem and you’re better off looking at a decent set of blinds to minimise glare.

The epoxy weld putty might be needed, if you have anyone with a 3D printer maybe the could knock something up that attaches. You got a picture of the break?

Or you could just get a car with 800v batteries and this isn’t a problem

I’m not sure the extra hour applies does it. I thought they had a get out. Willing to be wrong, but better to check.

Sorry, range is most certainly an issue. Mostly because of broken chargers or inconsiderate twits going to 100% in their eqs. Big problem with SUV is the slab nose and the height at which they ride. Most cars have a raked bonnets at a lower height. A generic SUV is pretty much a blunt force at the head/ribs or hips of whoever is hit, folding them at 90 degrees or shoving them forward. Look at a RR or a Q7 or a GLE and see how highly they area. Same goes for an EX90, q6 etron. Same goes for any pickup truck. Compare the to a car or size wise to a mk1 Land Rover. I would say weight and bonnet height/angle are major problems across the board.

I had one of those, and all the errors issues on a mk3 Tester said 100%, but that was under DIN conditions, not in a relatively warm uk climate. I would suggest most of them are pretty useless for SoC etc I changed mine as I didn’t want to be stranded away as I drive a lot and we were getting towards winter. Slow starting went, stop start issues went, random codes stopped returning. I put an AGM in.

Stop start not working is one sign of a dead battery. Lots of Random comms/module errors is another that the voltage is going out of spec, which is often the battery.

Variable floor = handle Carpet floor (under the variable) = “handle” is a hole cut into the carpet

2 channel vifo a229+ is pretty reasonable, but get the cpl filter for the front camera.

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment. Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.

But they should be in the contract…

Go to dealer, ask for a copy so you can consider your options. Finance is regulated, so all finance companies have to give you contract terms.

Vigo a229 plus looked to be a good compromise on price vs performance and had a starvis 2 when I last took a look. They (and others) did a 2k super compact with no screen too.

If it’s rust underneath, why not clean it up good, then paint the sills and immediate area with black undercoat. Spray the under area with waxoyl or Bilthamber syntax/dynax UC? Yes that only deals with the undersides/wheel arches and hidden areas, but roller finishing a car would look naff. Might as well just hammerite it at that point 😂

You could read that as acoustic in the front and sunset in the rear…

If you are not sure that the original battery was correctly coded from EFB to AGM, then I would get it coded. The voltages are a bit different and the coding on many cars resets an “aging profile” for how the battery is charged.

So the dealer told you 2.5mm/5mm rear pads needing expensive work but then in the MOT said 4.5/4mm and only gave an advisory? Sounds like someone “errored” which could have resulted in a bill you didn’t need?

Whatever you do, do not run summers on the rear and anything more winter/all season targeted on the front. It would likely be easy to lose the rear end in snow/ice.

Moved to yeti forum

Depends where you are no? Wilds of Scotland or half way up a rural pennies road sure, winters win be they Nokian, Alpine 5/6 or any other decent brand. Cornwall probably less so. You need to buy new wheels, pressure sensors, tyres and store/swap them. Yes I travel, but as snow is uncommon where we now are, getting home in snow matters rather than hacking it around. If I had unlimited space and budget I would get summer/winter for piece of mind. If the weather became reliably colder too. As it stands the wife drove a long drive home on cc+ during the beast from the east after digging her car out. If they were that bad I’ve had hear about it. I would far rather encounter a car on hood all seasons than summer tyres even if I’m on winters though. Less likely to plough into me.

I’ve used both extensively over a number of years/cars. Good All Seasons are plenty good enough to get you home or to the shops. Deep snow up a hill, they’re probably acceptable when it’s fresh, but yes it’d be better on winters. Slush that’s refrozen would be much better on winters. All seasons do have an advantage on our typical wet roads or dry cool vs winters IMHO. Gets very cold or icy and winters win. Both are hugely better than summers in winter though. Essentially how severe is the weather you’re expecting, how often and are you just needing to get home or to travel? Only you can tell, which trade off (storage & changing vs worse performance in more serious conditions) works for you.

Not that size but a 19” on a different vehicle. They’re very good. Had full winters/summers and cc2 on an Octavia and not as good in deep stuff/ice but much much much better than summers. Both the wife and myself run them now as we don’t currently get the snow load to justify two sets of wheels /sensors /storage.

Although it m not sure the Passat info is correct myself

Please don’t post duplicate threads:

The Octavia or that age had a top mounted oil filter, so changes were very easy if you were willing to use a pela pump or similar.