Monkhai

But they should be in the contract…

Go to dealer, ask for a copy so you can consider your options. Finance is regulated, so all finance companies have to give you contract terms.

Vigo a229 plus looked to be a good compromise on price vs performance and had a starvis 2 when I last took a look. They (and others) did a 2k super compact with no screen too.

If it’s rust underneath, why not clean it up good, then paint the sills and immediate area with black undercoat. Spray the under area with waxoyl or Bilthamber syntax/dynax UC? Yes that only deals with the undersides/wheel arches and hidden areas, but roller finishing a car would look naff. Might as well just hammerite it at that point 😂

You could read that as acoustic in the front and sunset in the rear…

If you are not sure that the original battery was correctly coded from EFB to AGM, then I would get it coded. The voltages are a bit different and the coding on many cars resets an “aging profile” for how the battery is charged.

So the dealer told you 2.5mm/5mm rear pads needing expensive work but then in the MOT said 4.5/4mm and only gave an advisory? Sounds like someone “errored” which could have resulted in a bill you didn’t need?

Whatever you do, do not run summers on the rear and anything more winter/all season targeted on the front. It would likely be easy to lose the rear end in snow/ice.

Moved to yeti forum

Depends where you are no? Wilds of Scotland or half way up a rural pennies road sure, winters win be they Nokian, Alpine 5/6 or any other decent brand. Cornwall probably less so. You need to buy new wheels, pressure sensors, tyres and store/swap them. Yes I travel, but as snow is uncommon where we now are, getting home in snow matters rather than hacking it around. If I had unlimited space and budget I would get summer/winter for piece of mind. If the weather became reliably colder too. As it stands the wife drove a long drive home on cc+ during the beast from the east after digging her car out. If they were that bad I’ve had hear about it. I would far rather encounter a car on hood all seasons than summer tyres even if I’m on winters though. Less likely to plough into me.

I’ve used both extensively over a number of years/cars. Good All Seasons are plenty good enough to get you home or to the shops. Deep snow up a hill, they’re probably acceptable when it’s fresh, but yes it’d be better on winters. Slush that’s refrozen would be much better on winters. All seasons do have an advantage on our typical wet roads or dry cool vs winters IMHO. Gets very cold or icy and winters win. Both are hugely better than summers in winter though. Essentially how severe is the weather you’re expecting, how often and are you just needing to get home or to travel? Only you can tell, which trade off (storage & changing vs worse performance in more serious conditions) works for you.

Not that size but a 19” on a different vehicle. They’re very good. Had full winters/summers and cc2 on an Octavia and not as good in deep stuff/ice but much much much better than summers. Both the wife and myself run them now as we don’t currently get the snow load to justify two sets of wheels /sensors /storage.

Although it m not sure the Passat info is correct myself

Please don’t post duplicate threads:

The Octavia or that age had a top mounted oil filter, so changes were very easy if you were willing to use a pela pump or similar.

I have a mains powered mini plunge saw and have to say it’s fantastic for cutting sheet materials down to size.

Check the manual, if it’s the DPF light there are instructions and you need to take the car out and follow those instructions.

Usually with the early i5 and sister cars, it was a dead 12v, so you couldn’t turn the HV or zombie mode. The latter being where the software got confused and the start button wouldn’t work until keys went out of range then you unlocked again. Zombie mode definitely got fixed and fewer and fewer people see 12v problems after software updates.

Completely different to the iPace, but I see 200kW+ regularly on the right chargers (15-20 minute charge window). I would say unless the chargers are playing up int in the range of 120 (140 most of the time) to 240kW (220 most of the time). I deliberately chose a vehicle with an 800v battery though, as I have different priorities.

Still a hard no here, particularly at the price. Feel like the clothing brands that used to buy a 50p polo top, add their logo and decide it was £80 now 😂

I can’t live with 45 minute charge windows whilst out, as I can charge multiple times in a day. 800v makes a bathroom break a substantial charge on a decent charger. They have pushed out marketing about an Octavia estate mind.

Next time it happens try the stops if you can find somewhere safe. Worth checking the wishbone bushes , faces of the hub etc too (as mentioned by another poster) Never had problems with warping, but hot pads will leave deposits on discs (for example hard stop or lots of braking) then standing on the brakes rather than using the handbrake.

I know there were some radiators on mk2 and possibly early mk3 where there was a crack/poor manufacturing that would open up when hot and dump all the water. I am not saying it is this, but worth checking the leak isn’t coming from the edges of the radiator if you can’t work out what else is going on. Also I’ve moved this to the mi3 area.

I’d be looking at the pads and it’s very rare for discs to “warp” and more likely for pads to leave deposits. The advice I received back when I had a mk2 was that if it was safe to do so, to try a few hard stops from 70 to 20 on an empty dual carriageway. If there are pad deposits, this should reduce them. That said, what symptoms are you seeing that makes you think your discs are “warped”

The plastic panel provides access to the fuse panel on RHD cars. The seal look’s correctly placed to me, as does the panel. I’ve moved your post to the Octavia section, so you’ll hopefully get more replies now too.