Monkhai

Fundamentally, lay the lot use only what you need. You’re doing it to future proof. Just laying 10mm Doncaster Inc cat 5 covers most of what you might want and adding and Ethernet everything. You may only is L1 + N + E to a commando socket, but you’re talking about charging a future vehicle. At that time who knows what the regs in France might be. My advice stands lay it once and it’s done. The charger I loosely talk about it the EV charge point and the AC DC inverter to converts to charge the battery is in the car. If you want absolute bare minimum, the armoured 6/10mm (subject to cable rules and french regs) Twin&Earth to a 32A commando socket with an interlock switch. As you would find at a caravan site for hook up, albeit you would want 32A not 16A.

Surely you’d use armoured cable and RCBO or if the device has an RCD built in an MCB or better still an RCBO with suitable delay? Edit: To be fair to the guy, I do seem to remember documentation saying something along the lines of built in so you should use an MCB some time back.

On new build estates many are 3Ph or have the three phases run right up to a break out only a few meter from the properties. I think there might be a plan to move properties to 3Ph 60A or 80A

Your assumption are correct. Addressing your questions, I suggest running that 3 x L cable and a cat6 because it covers all eventualities and if I live was damaged on a single phase install you have a spare. Lifting the floor is the expensive and messy but vs an extra few £/€ per M. (You could even connect a house battery or a solar inverter on the 2 spares with correct markings.) So 3 phase cable is more about never needing to dig it up again. CT - At lease one is required by many chargers so they can monitor the pull from the grid. Many won’t charge without this as it’s a safety feature. If you were to add a battery, solar or similar you’d need a clamp to measure those. Not saying you will, but we’re back to cost of cable vs work. Ethernet cable… it’s cheap and many chargers take software updates or you can set/monitor them to only charge In discount periods. WiFi is often unreliable in remote locations, so why chance it. Essentially if you run 3L+B+E with comms and an additional cat6 cable, no currently possible proposal would require you to dig it up and add to or replace it. I’m more a do it once, don’t have the cost/mess of redoing it mindset.

Please continue in the above thread.

Which Model/year of vRS? Some yes if the alignment is out, others no.

It’s all the extra A’s in Jaaaaaaag that add the width. @J.R. EV stuff is all over the place, but most chargers need 32A and some communication cables and CT clamps. https://www.toolstation.com/doncaster-cables-ev-ultra-ev-charger-cable/p44108 This stuff has 5 power cables (3xL+N+E) and a cat5 cable and comes in armoured too. That one is 10mm but for shorter runs it comes in 6mm and longer runs in 16mm. They also do a single phase one. For the small cost I would run the correct size of the 3PH to wherever you might want an EV charger and from a rotary isolator at the DP end into an empty box at the other. The right size would then allow you to connect 1 or 3 Ph @32A, use 2 pairs for 100Mbit eth and connect 2CT clamps to monitor grid and solar. If you can stick a stand alone cat6 length in there too that way all comms and up to 4 CT could be covered. Obviously you need to comply with all local electrical regs etc, but if I was doing work and wanted to be ready that’s what I’d get put in. Once in, don’t forget you can still run a suitable short run from the junction to the charger if it turns out to be on the wrong side, but a 5M type 2 cable will solve most issues.

I’m waiting for an estate … with 800v batteries.

“brilliantly take the thread off topic and heading for a ban” you mean? 😋 let’s not turn this into another thread with too many problems

More engineering less marketing BS before it’s ready?

You missed the magic CR140 emissions control systems, which allegedly had some oversights in the programming. 😂

Just under 80% from a nearly 10 year old leaf is promising. Very early battery tech, air cooled, packs known to get a bit warm under heavy load and fast charging, small batteries that get cycled more. It suggests more modern cars will be at least 80%, probably more like 90%+ at 10 years.

I’ve updated the head post to remove new from the services.

Bitte auf Englisch. Please Repost in English as per the forum guidelines . Sadly I think my limited German will not do your request justice.

Please keep it cordial. That goes to everyone.

They’re retrospectively taxing EVs at the standard rate for anything post 2017

You might want to try-read my post. For starters you didn’t edit your post

Surely if you have an old one and pictures one of the aftermarket Mat manufacturers could do something similar. 👍

A swift edit to say it’s mk3 not mk4 doesn’t magically make someone pointing out it’s irrelevant to the mk4 abusive.

Get an Indy to give you a price for bilstein b4 (oem spec) and new rubber bump stops/mounts. Do check the condition of the springs too as they can rust and snap or just get tired. The labour is most of the cost. £600 feels like the price for a full set of springs/dampers all around, albeit that might be a bit higher these days.

2019 - Add two years essentially doing nothing during covid. Not saying it’s ok, but it may be related to corrosion whilst sat with zero use for extended periods. It will be interesting to see if Bosch want them back to inspect or otherwise?

Last post aside, can we please stop with the Hindenburg type and conspiracy theory type posts. The thread is quite close to be closed and I’m not averse to taking further measures if needed.

Your bus tilt picture isn’t the UK. I really don’t know where you search to find so much electrified FUD material. I imagine if you put similar effort into ICE…

And that’s fine for a bit, but sat for hours in the negative temperatures on the blocked road at Negative temperatures scenario you posted for an EV it wouldn’t. As an example also, our EV will keep the car at 23degrees at -4 and was using 1.4-1.8kW to do so. The 1.8 from stone cold until defrosted. Call it 1.5 to make the maths easy and probably less for say 18-20 degrees. 24 hours stuck on a road, permanently heating to a warm temperature without any attempt to eco mode would use 36kWh. Oh and electric cars can turn off and wrap up too. i just don’t think this is the problem you seem to think this is.

When an ICE car is idling it doesn’t generate anywhere near enough heat to keep the occupants warm on waste heat. So you need either an electrical heater, which will drain the battery faster than idle will fill it, a fuel based heater or something else. The occupants are more likely to freeze in minus 10 than stay warm.