Monkhai

Adding to my above post, the German court still held the driver responsible for using the distracting touch screen and the driver then lost an appeal that was based on the fact it was safety critical system (wipers). The advert leave me short of words, but if other courts follow the German View, I think controls on a touchscreen will hopefully be short lived.

I would check: - Vacuum. - Brake fluid water content (We don't know how long it was sat up or if a cap was left off etc). - Condition of the pads/discs. Do they have a coloured hue to the disk surface for example. - Get the car over to an MOT centre and ask them to test the brakes, they will be able to show a lack of brake performance. If all of the above are ok and the checks show up nothing then perhaps the following. On a very empty and suitable road, when safe to do so, do some 70 to 10mph stops, perhaps 3 times and allow the brakes a little time to cool between each attempt. Obviously making sure nobody else is in the vecinity and allowing plenty of extra space just in case. This will bed the brakes in pretty quickly.

It appears we’re not the only ones who don’t like touchscreens instead of controls. A bit older: https://www.driving.co.uk/news/dashboard-screens-risk-drivers-lives/ More recent and interesting: https://www.theweek.co.uk/98481/are-in-car-touchscreens-safe-to-use-while-driving German court decided a touchscreen alternative to a physical control is a driver distraction very recently: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-53666222 I think it’s fair to say car manufacturers should probably pause and think. With that German ruling might we see a different version of the buttons in a future MY, where controls used in motion are on physical buttons?

Well in my case at least it’s not related to microSD as I am using a full size SD card. To the OP what firmware revision is your MIB running?

Think it’s a full size SD but I’ll have to go check now you’ve asked.

The bag can degrade or split and the particles released are believed to be sufficient to block a heater matrix. That’s a sizeable bill to fix, so I imagine radweld type products would pose a similar risk in such a sensitive system.

Be interesting to see if you find a solution to this as mine will sometimes start where it finished, but most often start in the first track alphabetically on the card. Very frustrating now.

Don’t use radweld type solutions as in this particular car it’s just as likely to cause an expensive to fix problem as fix the leak. The cooling systems have very fine channels etc. It appears that these can be blocked just by the contents of the silicate bag leaking, never mind adding anything to the system.

I know it doesn’t help, but you can turn lane assist off in the radio settings menus usually. Dead gearbox bearings would make me ask them to check the dmf etc is in good nick too before they stick it all back together.

The only way to get manufacturers to listen will be to not buy the car and state exactly why. It is a simple cost saving exercise, as a touch screen costs lest than a smaller touchscreen and physical buttons. Feel free to write to MP and ask what is being done, but sadly big motor is too powerful. I walked away from other options for this car due to the fact that someone stuck an iPad on the dash instead of integrating it.

Having run winters for years I put all season on the summer wheels and am seriously considering them as an all year option. If you need true winters and wheels I have Alpin6, steel and trims, so feel free to drop me a PM. If you want alloys, then I forget the brand, but there is one that all the Germans use for their winter alloys. The biggest reason I went for steel was actually their resistance to pot hole damage vs alloys, but also that they can be repaired if you impact a really sharp pot hole that would crack an alloy. Of your two options I prefer the second, but I am certainly not a wheel guru 😂

I liked the redstuff and personally wouldn’t run green on a heavier car. yellow are a bit better than red in stopping power, but dusty, whereas the red were low dust and a good feel/stopping power. Obviously there are other factors and limits too, not just pads.

Boot lids are very expensive, so I would certainly pursue it as far as you can.

Neither of those parts are expensive at a main dealer, so personally I wouldn’t mess around shipping from out of country.

Indeed... but Somerset itself isn’t a huge area and some may wish to travel for a big saving. In our case it was nearly £500 down to £200. I’ve travelled to Weston/Bristol before as well.

Was going to suggest a place in the outskirts of Taunton, they’re excellent and get fair, but it sounds a bit too far out of your area.

Where in Somerset are you? Also main dealer prices jumped way before Brexit, which had me move to an indy. I think it had more to do with greed and glass palaces than anything else.

A good Indy isn’t, but there are some less good ones out there. The reason I suggested the dealer for £50 extra is the 2 years warranty from a dealer when fitting genuine parts. On a can belt I would say that’s rather useful for such a small cost.

Or people will buy a car which doesn't have the risk, such as a seat or a brand that isn't part of VW AG.

👍 After the problems with the previous printer, it was between an HP or Xerox, but an offer swung it to the HP. Good to know the Xerox is going well too 😀

How are you getting on with the Xerox?

Good result and the positive is that if they replace like for like you have the LuK flywheel, which wasn't the one affected by the issue i described. My advice of finding a new or at least backup dealer for the future still stands if they tried to pull a fast one.

I could have done, but the cost of the additional box, even a NUC just isn't worth it. I'm up to speed on linux admin, so it wouldn't be an issue, but the cost and maintainance time is probably (as you say) more than the cost of a new printer. Regards to the printer the response was dire and involved a shouting support engineer, because he insisted he must remotely connect to a printer that wasn't on a public or routable IP and behind a firewall. There were also some very helpful people there, but I was told that most of their support staff were on Furlough, which probably hasn't helped. The vendor tried to get their kyocera rep to do something, but they got a blank too so offered to take the printer back. It got collected and has been replaced with an HP. In summary, the kyocera appears to have better built hardware, really poor software (from a user POV) and very poor support model when it comes to home/SOHO users. Will the HP be more expensive to run? Certainly. Did it work and do firmware updates as soon as plugged in? Yes! A working printer which is somewhat more expensive, is certainly better than a cheap one that is a nightmare in my book. It's a shame as there are some really good points for kyocera, and if you're a big business with a service contract, they're probably great, but until they fix the update and SOHO support model then I'd personally not recommend them.

It could be worth trying this: https://www.bilthamber.com/waxes-polishes-and-clay-bars/auto-balm The sample size should do the job and it would give you a temporary solution until you can get a small repair done.

If you look on the dmf thread on here a couple of mechanics on here states it. when they checked my mk2 it wasn’t a box off job either. The starter engages it, so should be able to see if it’s springs have given up just like the starter would when engaged. Ask the dealer why they couldn’t just pull the starter and check there initially.