Monkhai

Please don’t post the same question in multiple areas.

Yes… but it was only just starting to show the tiniest bit of damage at over 100k miles and 5 years old.

Your car is a mk2 and you already created a thread there. Please don’t create multiple threads in different sections.

Check the earth to the starter. not seen it on a mk3, but seen other cars where a rusted earth bond (negative) to the starter meant it wouldn’t turn over. it was cold today, are the glow plugs working?

I’m ok with the offering a smaller battery as an option, but without a 400+ mile version than can do a real 330+ in winter on the motorway it’s not going to be enough to bring me back to the fold. Efficiency improvements would mean a 60 and an 80kWh would both have respectable ranges for winter motorway. Chargers are not good enough at the moment, particularly when busy/broken down due to age. Being comfortable that you can do it in one hit both ways is what I need along with a load lugging estate and 800V charging/batteries.

I’ve moved it for you 👍 On the turbo check the actuator works properly and you may have a dirty/sticky VNT mechanism. What sort of mileage/driving style does the car get?

So essentially we’re probably limited to around 120kW, but for occasional stop off it should give a decent charge in 30 minutes. When the do support 800v, we would be on an 15 minute charge to compete with ionity etc. I do agree i just need the silly money vendors with 350kW chargers to feel the competition and get back down to sub 50p and ideally even lower. It is a shame that Tesla have made some interior design choices I just couldn’t live with (touchscreen and lack of stalks now)

They’re far from the only ones. InstaVolt are pretty expensive too. I’ve now added Tesla for non Tesla charging as a backup option.

Fine by me as long as they properly support 800V charging up to around 300kW. I have an 800V car, and the next one will be 800V as well, because it makes such a huge difference to the time at chargers.

If they had not removed wiper /indicator stalks I might have considered one.

Shame some companies are hacking the prices through the roof. We got an update from shell that prices are now north of 80p /kWh, which means she’ll (and others) are now emergencies only. At this rate they’ll price themselves out of the market or if they all do it, substantially shrink that market.

Should be covered by warranty IMHO, as they essentially sold a defective car to you. Is the warranty a skoda warranty as if so I’d be tempted to talk to other dealers in the background if this lot are refusing. I wouldn’t be driving the car anywhere though with a split bag.

Is it the dealer you purchased it from?

It might be worth popping a new pair of bulbs in just to rule out a cracked filament causing it. If this only happened post LED, then the old bulbs are probably fine.

If it isn’t a fault there was a coding where: Off = everything off Auto = DRL on and dimmed+ others as needed. Others = Dimmed DRL + corresponding lights. I’m too am surprised they need to be turned off, but different countries have different laws, so not sure that I would be in a position to question it.

I’ve had a bulb with a cracked filament and a dodgy old bulb holder cause this. If you have put LED bulbs in they will cause issues unless the correct type and even then they may not be road legal. The bulb test passes a tiny current through the filament to test the bulb but it can’t do this with an LED. Try replacing the bulbs with new filament ones and see if that fixes it, as it’s an inexpensive test.

I’m not certain they can ask for incentives back, as there are rules around incentives to take on debt and they are tightly regulated, hence my asking. As IANAL Also a previous poster states they were told by VWFS to withdraw would be cheaper, so I would suggest asking. VWFS are legally required to answer questions accurately, so the OP could just call them and discuss.

I’m not so sure, I’ve seen similar behaviour from someone in a very expensive EV who thought the cost of one charge was so insignificant that they couldn’t understand why the person who had the bill cared. If you plug into our charger it won’t charge. I’d expect when cars can advertise their ID you could set newer chargers to only charge approved cars.

Some of the grasping at straws on this thread gets to the level where you could mistakenly imagine they were the grasping actions of shills trying to undermine a threat to their business. Lets keep these things real please rather than wild speculation. Ignoring the car… a bigger question is why on earth the car park isn’t built with sprinklers, fire breaks and able to withstand a reasonably intense fire without serious collapse.

Did that mg4 float… it looked like it for a bit, which is not good. As for lots of the higher cars, why didn’t anyone tarp the grill I wonder.

I believe you have 14 days cooling off period by law (but do check with appropriately qualified professionals)

Yes I have had that happen. Also had one manually adjust after missing one then the next one reset to that same smaller interval. I think it’s too old, but does the car use adblue and need a top up?

Merged and moved to here

Have you considered you might need a new battery because of a low cranking speed? Is it a very cold start and how long has it been sat there?

As I mentioned… nokian. harshest to less harsh order would be: Studded: https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tires/nokian-tyres-hakkapeliitta-10/ Non studded (but pretty good ice grip) https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tires/nokian-tyres-hakkapeliitta-r5/ European winters: https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tires/nokian-tyres-snowproof-2/ Michelin Alpin 6 if you’re feeling flush. Looking at where you’re heading I’d say it’s between the top two and as I’m not a Nordic region resident I’d be speaking to locals to see about stud restrictions in any cities you might visit and if they are local if they use studded or studless.