Jump to content

bw10030

Members
  • Posts

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bw10030

  1. Now I'm no software expert, nor do I know exactly how VAG fiddled the software, but . . . My understanding from what we officially know is that there is some dodgy software which, when the vehicle 'thinks' it is in a laboratory testing environment, switches in and creates test figures which cannot be met when used on the road. So there are two issues VAG need to resolve: 1: VAG cars post 'fix' in the lab environment are likely to record worse emissions figures as the dodgy 'lab software' is deleted from the cars; and 2: On the road, as the 'lab software' bit of code was never activated, the performance and emission figures etc. should be the same. For VAG to say they can't fix Passat's for example, implies they are trying to achieve the same, old, 'lab' figures in the lab environment, with the modified software. This would mean that the fix would affect how the cars perform at all times (no 'cheat' software, same used on road and in lab). In other words, meet the original emissions figures (lab figures) by changing all the software, and at the same time retain the original (on road) performance. If it were me I would just delete the dodgy bit of code and hey presto, job done, however the 'official' emissions and consumption figures would be worse (but actually closer if not identical to what users were getting anyway). This may not be acceptable to regulators however and would be a customer relations nightmare (but arguably no worse than what it is today!) I am very dubious about what the fix VAG are planning actually is. If they want to retain the lab test figures (politically expedient), then they will almost inevitably affect how the car performs on the road. So I am not going to be the first to have fix done to either of my two affected cars! If it was an easy deletion of the dodgy code, it would be done by now.
  2. Hi - well, after an Easter's testing, I think there's a real problem. The issue only starts after an hour or so, and it doesn't seem to be affected by vent position or sunshine. I took the car out for a run, got it to normal temperature (21degrees, A/C on, Auto selected 'Dual' mode), and for a while the temperature was finely controlled. After I had confirmed the 'static temperature', I adjusted the driver side up a degree (to 22) - instant warm air. reset the temp to 21, did the same on passenger side, same result. Reset to 21 degrees, and gave the system a few minutes to settle down, then turned the drivers side to 20 degrees - instant cold air. Let this settle for a while, then turned it back up to 21 - no warm air, and the vents were continuing to blow cold air - indeed far more than the -1 degree decrease in temperature demanded. The only way to get the vents back to blowing 'warm' air was to set the temp to 24 degrees. Reset the temp to 21 once I had warm air and the system seemed to work OK. On another trip (i.e. the engine had been off and the engine cooled), I repeated the 'lower by 1 degree test', same effect (a lot of cold air and the temperature inside getting very cold), again when the temperatures inside and engine had stabilised. This time I left it at 20, and the interior just kept getting colder and colder - even on the passenger side, after a while. Turned the whole system off with the climate control for a few minutes (didn't want to risk frostbite!) turned it back on, still the same result. Turned it up to 24, warm air again. So sounds like something is awry. A visit to the dealer calls - I have a leak or more an audible drip - related to the sunroof which may be a dockyard job to fix, so they can look at it then. If I find an answer I will let you know via the forum.
  3. Last weekend, I took my wife's Yeti (L&K diesel)on a long run (2 lots of 3 hour legs), and noticed a climate control issue. After an hour or so, we noticed the interior of the car getting colder and colder. The car was at normal running temperature, and the inside temp was set to 21 degrees. Outside temperature was 13 when I set off, but dropped to around 8. The system would not put warm air into the inside, I fiddled with various settings, and eventually managed to get warm air into the car by turning the control up to 24 degrees on both sides. The car did not get hot, but became habitable again. After 3 hours we stopped for a quick coffee, when we set off again the heater / climate worked fine - we had to turn the controls back down to 21. However after an hour or so the same thing happened. So a trip to the dealers is coming up, but any ideas what may be the cause?
  4. Privilege. Always cheapest for me both for my Superb and wife's Yeti - never had to claim though so can't comment on the service . . . .
  5. 2012 Elegance happily accepts 32GB SD cards
  6. I would go for the 170 - the extra oomph is worth it and in my experience the fuel consumption is no worse (indeed perhaps a little better) than the 140 PS model
  7. OK so the consensus is it doesn't light any more for the recent models in the instrument cluster. My wifes is the same. Question is, is it simply disabled such that with a bit of coding it can be switched back on? Personally I would prefer the light in the dashboard (where it's easy to see) than one by your knee. Anybody done the -re-enabling (if possible), and know the ins - and outs?
  8. Has the DSG Gearbox servicing been donee (if required)? If it's the 6 speed DSG then a 40000 mile / 4 year service is a must, go beyond that and you may start having problems. The service is only an oil and filter change (see posts on this forum), but its £279 at a dealer (there's a lot of specialist, expensive oil involved). Just had my second service done at 80000 and there is a noticeable improvement in gearchange quality, so I assume if the oil gets older, then the gearchange may get worse?
  9. Check you can't get it with a 'bit' of Skoda finance - I did that on both of mine, took £3k finance, paid it off after 3 months (interest was about £30 + £60 arrangement fee), got a 2 year (minor and major) servie plan! Result. Put the £3k into Premium bonds, you'll be in 2 draws, you might win more than the interest (I didn't!).
  10. Or you may have a dodgy battery. Modern batteries do catastrophically fail without warning - i.e. one minute they are fine, then next minute dead. The old days of 'slow cranking' or 'dim lights' are a thing of the past. However 5 hours from (nominally) fully charged (after a drive) to effectively flat is more than just a little drain - can the Columbus system really take that amount of current? It may be that the battery didn't charge after the last start (alternator not working) and you effectively drove on 'battery power' only, prgressively flattening it? There should be a warning (red ignition light) if this happens though? It's unlikely to be a dead battery at 2 years old (though you could be unlucky) or an alternator - and easy enough to test, when you are getting the dealer to look at current drain, also get him to test the health of the battery and its charging. There's not much else it can be!
  11. Agree with comment about the gear lever in a manual (not seen a DSG yet) - but it is set way too high! Whoever signed that off at the factory? Stop / start again, useless (yet to drive a good one from any manufacturer), too keen to stop leading to issues at junctions, And finally bloody electric handbrakes! Is it me, or do these simply cause more trouble than they are worth? Hill hold on my wife's Yeti works great (stops you rolling back), but select the electric handbrake on in the Superb III and try to drive off, you will progress down the road with the handbrake on, looking like a learner on first lesson! I'm also not convinced about the 'improvement' in style over the II, but then nowadays new models look more like facelifts than new designs anyway. Maybe when more are on the road the differences will be obvious. Looks well built though, and will pick up fleet sales I'm sure.
  12. Guess you're unlucky: In 2 years and 25K of Yeti motoring, I've had no issues. Small stomes have hit the screen, but no damage needing repair! Good question about the insurance though - I don't think there's a limit, but who knows . . .
  13. It was 'due' a service, and was getting a little smelly. Had a new compressor and condenser fitted - still faulty (very noisy, needed another compressor apaparently. Sold the car . . . . !!!
  14. Hi, had a rummage around the exhaust, and the earlier opinion of the clamp around the turbo / DPF seems accurate - there's definitely something wrong around there. But it does seem a b*gger to get to, so it will be looked at by the dealer when I can get there.
  15. OK, thanks - that sounds identical! I'll be off to the dealer soon and will have this up my sleeve when they don't understand what I'm talking about! Thanks to all, and regards . . . .
  16. Hi Thanks, it is definitely diesel smoke (an unusual smell these days), and it does sound like a slightly loose clamp, so (weather permitting - it's p*ing down t the moment!) I'll have a look in that area. It may just ned a gentle tightening and less to worry the dealer!
  17. Hi all, a couple of questions following the purchase of my wifes 14 170 L&K 4x4 Yeti: The first is a very strange one: After it has rained (i.e. when the car is wet), I can hear what for all the world soundls like water dripping onto a piece of plastic, rear of the car around the rear seats or boot area. However it is incredibly regular (once a secord or maybe a little faster - and here's the wierd thing, as soon as you turn of the engine and take out the keys, it stops! It also stops if you open a door. So maybe it is electrical, perhaps a relay clicking in / out or similar. I'll be taking back to the dealers for this and the fault below, but has anyone any idea when this might be as I am completely stumped!!! Secondly, anybody ever had any burnt diesel / exhaust smells under the bonnet? I opened mine to see if I could find the fault above, and was immediately aware of a diesel smoke smell under there (the car had been stationary with the engine running for a few minutes). I guess there's a small exhaust leak somewhere (there is a bit of noise, but not too noticeable), but not immediately obvious. Again, anyone had similar, is there a known problem I can point at at or is it a case of allowing the garage to rummage around until they find it? Other than that, a great car, we had the 140 before this andextra oomph makes a noticeable difference (it's better on fuel too . . . . .???) Thanks in advance
  18. Just got one on the wifes new L&K (and one on the Superb too!). The important thing is, Park Assist and a sunroof must go together - open sunroof, select Park Assist, hands out of sunroof, allow car to park, watch pedestrians stare in amazement . . . . Well worth the money.
  19. Yes, and dealers aren't the best - my wifes has just had an 'aircon service', it was perfect when it went in, now hissing like an angry snake!!! Back to the dealer for me. NOT HAPPY!!!!!
  20. Mine has Park assist and a sunroof. Have used the PA system a few times - if the gap is 'tight' and you're on a busy high street then the fact that it will get the car in first time is really useful. It is uncannily accurate, but make sure the cars you are parking between are not on the kerb, or very tight to it as your car will line up with theirs - kerb or no kerb . . . . . Any car with PA though should come with a sunroof. Why? Well, it should be compulsory to put your hand out of the roof when using PA (if it's not raining), just to watch peoples faces when the driver is clearly not 'steering' the car into the parking space. This feature alone is worth the cost of the two options!!!
  21. Definitely NOT a fan. Will be a decider in not changing to a Mk 3. Had a really bad experience of the elec handbrake on hired Passat, which wouldn't release properly. Have hated them ever since. Stop / Start is the same, they are all too easy to fool into cutting out just as you want the engine to work - e.g. pulling onto a roundabout.
  22. Regularly do 500+miles per week on a 170 Estate TDI. Depending on traffic. the low fuel light comes on most weeks, and occasionally I have had the range to go down to 25 miles. When filled up thus, I've NEVER got more that 56 litres into a 60 litre tank (and that includes filling to the filler neck - essential if I don't want to fuel in the week). So based on this plus fuel consumption of 48 mpg (verified each fill up), I reckon at 25 'miles to go' there's a gallon of fuel sloshing about in the tank (say 50 miles), plus a bit of fuel in the pipes and fuel filter. What I don't know is how exact is the 60 litre capacity - it may only be 59.5, say, or maybe 61 litres???. There's also the question of 'unuseable fuel' - does the tank empty from the lowest point (unlikely) or is there some capacity not used, to capture dirt etc? I reckon the pipework and fuel filter would compensate for this, so my best guess for my car is that there's 25 miles of 'emergency' fuel once the range gets to zero. But why would you? when the fuel light comes on, there's plenty of warning to refuel and whilst it's nice screwing every little off from the supermarket, you're talking 3 litres or so - with a breakdown risk or sucking some crap through the system? Don't ne greedy and refuel at 40 or so miles to go! Especially on a motorway where the cost of a gallon of fuel would outlive a lifetime of savings!
  23. Yep, I'll have a go myself before the service. Perhaps there's ghosts in the machine!
  24. Had my wife's Yet's badge changed at about a year old as water was getting behind it - I guess only a matter of time before it fell off.
  25. Apparently 'they all do that sir . . .' My wife's Yeti has a rear one which is exactly the same. Due a service soon so will be reported again. Has park assist, so that won't work when it's damp - not good! My Superb (same sensors . . ???) doesn't suffer this problem
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.