Everything posted by Graham Butcher
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the truth about electric cars
What about the times when you know that you're only be there for a short time before returning again? Or are you really saying that you only do short journeys in and around N London, in which case I agree.
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the truth about electric cars
Eh? what? the car in the story was a Renault not a VW.
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the truth about electric cars
6. They said it was a brand new EV car costing £22,000. 7. A new car with a 2014 number plate 🤥 8. There is so much to this story.
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Insurance, is it legal robbery?
Correct, why does that make a difference? If I recall without that feature it only made about £100, I was looking for the same cover as I currently have.
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Insurance, is it legal robbery?
I just had an email from Aviva inviting to get a quote for my car insurance, now I need someone to restart my heart again after that shocker, they quoted me £992 with 10 years NCD, WTF.
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Airbag Theft
That reminds of this
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Airbag Theft
I used to know someone with that name, I was sent to this company to collect some special leads for lighting controllers and was told to ask for Wayne Kerr and that he was expecting me. I was apprehensive, thinking it was a wind up, but it wasn't, it was his real name and he was director of the company, which I discovered when he gave me his business card. Another time, many years ago I had to call on a company in Witney, and the contacts name was, according to the records I was given, Jack Pratt.
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Airbag Theft
No, it is a genuine thing, the links in my post are clickable and only refer to their own site and also the UK.gov site for motor law regarding the driving of a car with no airbag.
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Airbag Theft
That was also my understanding, maybe not all cars are equal?
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Airbag Theft
It was a genuine message from my insurer, Better by Miles, I have pasted it in my original message.
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Airbag Theft
I just received an email from my insurer advising me to be on my lookout for airbag theft. Apparently so they claim that while it is as common as catalytic convertor theft, it is on the increase apparently and they claim that you may not be aware of this until the first time they are called upon to operate, and they can't because they're not there! Are they right? I'd have assumed that the thieves would not have replaced everything so the car normal. I'd also have assumed the ECUs, would try to communicate with the airbags and when not getting "I'm OK" response back, it would have flagged a warning on the dash? Has anyone any experience this actually happening at all. This the email, copied and pasted here. Preventing Airbag Theft. Will Kerr 14th April 2023 Airbags do a great job of keeping us safe, so it’s only fair to repay the favour. Here, we’ll talk you through some tips on preventing airbag theft. First things first… Is airbag theft a big problem? In terms of raw numbers, airbags are stolen a lot less often than catalytic converters. However, it can be a lot more dangerous for the victim. That’s because, in both cases, you may not even know the part has been stolen. Driving without a catalytic converter is bad for the environment (and therefore illegal). But driving without an airbag increases your chances of serious injury or death. Why are people stealing airbags? To sell on. Disruption to supply chains is creating greater demands for car parts, so criminals gangs are focusing in on car crime. Some garages will pay £200-£500 for a stolen airbag. This spookily-lit garage seems a bit sketchy. How long does it take to steal an airbag? An experienced thief can have your airbag away in around 6-8 minutes. Which models are most at risk of airbag theft? Airbags are manufacturer specific. That’s to say, you can’t put any old airbag in any old car. Thieves will therefore want to target: Airbags from very common models that they can expect to sell on. Airbags they already know there’s a demand for – the more expensive the better. Reportedly, some thefts are being carried out ‘to order’ on behalf of garages looking for a particular type of airbag. This suggests the latter option is probably more popular. How do I keep my airbag safe from thieves? Get a steering lock. This is a visual deterrent that will often put thieves off just by being there. Check out our guide to steering locks and make a wise investment. If you can’t park in a garage (which is probably the best way of preventing airbag theft), choose somewhere well-lit, preferably in view of a camera. Only use reputable garages. As well as buying stolen airbags, it’s not unheard of for dodgy repair shops to steal airbags themselves, simply removing them in the course of doing other work. What should I do if my airbag is stolen? As with any crime, you should call the police, report what’s happened and get a crime reference number. You’ll also need to contact your insurer to get things moving with your claim (assuming you’re on a policy like ours which covers theft). Taking as many pictures as you can will be helpful, both for the police and your insurance claim. Can I still drive my car if my airbag has been stolen? While it’s obviously a risk to your safety, there’s nothing to say you can’t legally drive without an airbag installed. Of course, not all thieves are subtle about their work. Some simply rip the airbag system right out, damaging the car – or even removing the steering wheel altogether. In that case, you may not be able to use their car at all until repairs are done.
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the truth about electric cars
Just how would that work on car carriers, you need the blanket to seal the air out you can't do that on car carriers, be they road, rail or ship, you cannot do that. Road and rail transporters all have open floors to the trucks as well as securing straps and on sips, you do have flat floors but loads of securing straps tieing the cars down as well as proximity of other vehicles and their securing straps all of which make getting access to the fire impossible and also getting the fire blanket to form a seal with the deck.
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the truth about electric cars
You beat me, I was just about to post this myself 🙃🙃
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
Yes, I did mean the electrolytic capacitors, or sometimes they use small super capacitors to hold the settings in the NVM ram chips that typically store the user data, hence the mention not of leaving the battery disconnected too long as these would drain away and data once again lost. In my defence, it was late last night, and I was tired 😉
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
Like @Breezy_Pete said if the sparks are only as result of attaching battery charger leads etc, not a mayor problem, but if the sparks occur as a result of a live cable touching ground while taking power from your partner's car via jump leads, there could be some nasty consequences, there is a tremendous amount of power stored in car battery if being jumped from another car, there is no safety fuse to blow. Equally, with the power lead that plugs into the onboard OBD socket, should the life battery lead make accidental contact with ground, then the fuse designed to protect your electrical gear that needs to be permanently connected will blow, which will hopefully return you to the same state that you would be if you just disconnected the battery without have the temp supply connected, but now you have to find the fuse and if needed input the radio code again. The choice is yours to make at the end of the day, but I think I would be wrong if I did not point out the possible problems to you that you may face.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
Very true, the spark itself is not normally an issue with modern batteries as they tend to be sealed and maintenance free so the hydrogen gas can't escape like they used with the wet cells that needed top with distilled water from time to time.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
Sorry, my bad, I thought that you meant about losing the presets for the radio stations as you never actually mentioned that you never had the radio code, so you would not be able to input it when and if it asked for it. I agree that there are ways of providing a 12v supply while you are swapping the battery, but it is something that I would personally only attempt as a very last resort as the space in modern cars under the bonnet is very tight, and the cables will get in your way when extracting the old battery and again when fitting the new one. I'm speaking now as a fully qualified Auto Electrical Engineer (retired) and there remains plenty of risks that could cause damage to both your car and also the donor car supplying the power should anything go wrong.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
No No, the battery does not have that type of clamp, look at the battery that you supplied the link to, https://www.oscaro.com/batterie-bosch-0-092-s40-080-1777147-2585-p# it has a lip all the way round the bottom of it, that is where the clamp is fitted. The tray has special a shape holds one side of the lip down and the clamp goes on the opposite side to clamp it at the base. Top mounted clamps have almost disappeared on modern cars as the battery fumes corrode the metal and make them less effective.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
Do you know the code for your radio at all? AS far as I can see, this is the only thing that will need to be re-entered after disconnecting the battery. If you do, then why are you worrying about maintaining a supply to the car while changing the battery? Newer models of radios no longer need the code as they are all encoded with the rest of the system. I attach a copy of the standard radio for the 2009 Octavia. As I mentioned earlier, the leads on modern cars are just long enough to reach and no longer, this means the positive battery lead is going to be touching grounded metal work during the battery swap over, there is simply not enough slack cable, nor the room to move it out of the way. It is a difficult enough job without having to juggle cables out of the way while trying to put the new battery into place on the battery tray, let alone preventing the positive dead from shorting to the chassis, killing any temporary supply you provide the car with. Plugging that you referred to from Amazon, provides a 12v feed to cars ECU's and the radio, these items are connected to the car battery at all times even when the ignition is off and the car is parked up, so putting a live feed into OBD socket is going to result in a live connection to the cars positive lead and also connect to the chassis (ground). Do it by all means if you really want to risk doing permanent damage to the car. Excuse me for saying this, and I don't mean to offend you in any way, but it would appear that you don't have much knowledge when it comes to cars and how they work, would I be correct in this assumption? If so, then I really recommend that let the dealer/garage where you are getting your new battery from, fit it for you. I saw some earlier posts where you was not even certain of what type of battery you needed to replace the old with, so you are better off being safe rather than sorry should anything go wrong, leave it to someone who knows what they are doing and what battery is the correct type and amperage for your car. The small cost is worth the peace of mind. radio_navigation_system_amundsen__for_octavia_052009.pdf
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
The fixation bracket is there to secure the battery from falling out in the event of an accident where the car ends up on its roof or rolls over so the battery could then possibly fall out onto the bonnet and short circuit and then will have a mayor fire hazard, not good if you or anyone is trapped inside the car. This bracket needs to be undone before disconnecting the battery and also done up before reconnecting the new one.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
It is my understanding that the battery support function (usually called a maintaining function) is only required if you intend to mothball the car for long periods, i.e., it is a car that you only want to use say during the height of summer, like a convertible etc. Also when using such a system, or if doing a quick charge with the battery in the car that it is best to connect the positive to the positive battery terminal directly and the negative to the negative ground connection on the chassis, not directly to the battery. This because if your car has a battery monitoring system, this sits in the negative battery lead and the so if you connect directly to the negative battery terminal, the battery monitor will not be aware of this connection, connect to the chassis ground point connection, then it will be able to monitor the battery correctly. Do not ever try to connect a charger to the car while changing the battery as the positive lead is almost guaranteed to touch something the is connected to the ground and then you have a short circuit on your hand and may even destroy the ECU's or cause a fire. If you don't have enough knowledge or are uncertain of what you are doing, let a garage do the job for you.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
I have had to replace the battery in my mk2 Superb twice in its life and I never lost anything apart the steering angle input, and just operating the steering from lock to lock cured that problem. I have also fitted a new battery to my current mk3 Superb and the same thing happened, its not a big deal unless you're going to leave the car without a battery fitted for a while, it will stand a battery not being fitted for a few minutes.
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New battery required, compatibility check & replacement tips please
I've only just seen this thread and I have to agree with the advice that @Breezy_Pete has given. Any attempt to try and save any settings is just not worth the risk of destroying everything. I'd be inclined to jump start the engine and then run the engine for a few minutes to allow the suppression capacitors etc within the various ECU's fitted to the car to store some power, and then switch off and replace the battery with your new one. Generally speaking, if this is done without too much delay, you will find that very little or even no data/settings are lost. Yes you see/hear of cases where replacing the battery you have loads of warning lights appear in the instrument clusters, but these usually only appear if the battery is completely dead and has had zero voltage for some considerable time, so any charge stored in the ECU's internal capacitors has also drained away. You might find that if your car has electric steering that when the new battery is fitted, you have a warning light for steering come on. If this happens, all you normally have to do is start the car and just turn the steering from lock to lock a couple of times and the light should switch off once the steering has learned the steering wheel position/angle from the procedure.
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the truth about electric cars
Here is something that you don't get to see very often, a YT presenter admitting that they got something wrong, but either way he manages to debunk the myth that EV's are going to save the world. The first video is where he made the error and the 2nd one is where he fessed up. If only our politicians would do the same when they screw up.
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the truth about electric cars
Yeah, it looks to me to about 177mph, what did you make it?