Graham Butcher

I have read the manual both for the car and the Columbus radio and I can't see any way of actually adjusting the volume setting for incoming calls, they are barely audible only noticed because the radio mutes but it also does this when driving over or under high voltage cables, meaning that in order to determine which has caused the radio being muted, is to look at the display and see if it says incoming call. This surely cannot be right, so how do I set the level of incoming ring tones etc. Once I have accepted the call, volume can be adjusted with ease, but I have to be able to know that a call is coming in first?

Yup, but at my age, I don't want to move any more, I can't be doing with all that stress and hard work, anyway, what is a nice area today could, tomorrow turn out just as bad as what we have today if the wrong people move in, so just have to keep on about the tree for me and hope that one of the authorities will eventually own up to it and remove it. It is an accident just waiting to happen as it is taller than the house and when we get gales, branches break off, the rest of the year we get pooping, leaves falling clogging all the bonnet vents and wipers and then in the spring we get all the bloody catkins dropping everywhere and getting trapped under the wipers blades 🤬

I have similar problems with my drive, my other neighbours front door is right next to my drive and if I pressure wash the car on the drive, I have problems washing the nearside as I need to go on their garden to do it, and also if the open their front door at the wrong time they get pressure washed as well. Also the other neighbour has a white Mercedes car double parked outside my house which hasn't moved now for 3 weeks.. I have another neighbour 3 doors along who also has upto 4 cars and huge great green Mercedes van who also likes to park outside my house given the chance, I can't win.

I have the same problem, there is a tree at the side of my drive, but its not my tree, and the councils and housing partnerships claim its not theirs either and if I park on my drive, I'll have many poops on it the next morning. I try to park outside my house on the road but my neighbour has 5 bleeding cars and vans and also try to park outside my house and if I get there first and then have to go out in the evening, they will move into the spot forcing me back on my drive. I only have the one car and like to leave the drive free for my son or the in-laws to use when they visit otherwise they have park in another street.

Looks great but I bet the ride suffers, especially on potholes?

I had my Skandi rear DRL's activated, but I then deactivated them as I could not see any advantage in them. DRL's are designed to make your car more visible to people in front of you and to distinguish between cars that were active and those that were stationary.

I think that the speed camera POI's files have to be paid for and I don't think they give you any audio alert, but I might be wrong on that point The TomTom on the other hand gives me lifetime free updates of both maps and camera warnings, it also has a database of the speed limits of most roads and even where at some locations, it changes limits for a while and will alert you via audio alerts if you are exceeding the limit even if there are no cameras in the area, I find that very useful indeed, very handy especially when driving in strange location. It is also very useful when you join onto a road from a side, turning and there is not a limit sign at the junction, you could assume incorrectly that the road you're joining is a national limit when it is not for some reason. It is also having an excellent average speed camera calculator built-in function that will tell when you are entering a zone, even from a side junction and will display what your current average speed is, this worth its weight in gold. That being said, I would still love to get the built-in system working correctly, as it is always useful to have a backup system at all times.

This week I have purchased a 12v to 5v power brick from Amazon and wired that into the fuse box. This brick has 2 USB sockets on leads, one of these I have plugged my TomTom power lead into and run the cable via the slot that is at the bottom of the windscreen to the TomTom, mounted close to the instrument binnacle and the other USB lead I left dangling about 30 mm below the dash trim panel by the passenger door, conveniently out of the way as it is just where the door meet the trim. The passenger can then plug in their phone when it needs charging, I can have mine plugged into the socket in the consol and have the cover closed, which also seems to add some strength to the consol as it creaks much less when its closed. So now I have the dashcam and the TomTom switched ON automatically when the ignition is on, recording events and also giving updated traffic info and speed camera warnings on the TomTom. Now I'll try and track down some step by step instructions on how to get the TMC working on the Columbus using my VCDS HEX-V2 interface (still learning how to use this tool) and also how to update the maps on the Columbus and then I'll be pretty much sorted in that area.

Is it a rattle or creaking? I'm not aware of anything that could rattle in that area?

So has this problem now been fixed at last? If so, what would I need to do and how do I do it? I have a 2016 Superb L&K with Columbus and Canton sound. I also have update CD that I had just purchased for my old Mk2 Superb L&K which had Columbus system (old) just before the car was written off, would be usable on the new system or not?

Sounds like you may have a bad connection in the circuit then.

No, I meant that there might be a switch somewhere that turns the feature off, the speed part of my reply was to say that mine lights up in yellow when it is not active and as soon as I hit the speed limit it switches to green to show its active.

My Superb has the symbol lit up in yellow at switch on by default but upon reaching 40mph it goes green and is active. Mine also reacts at times to strips of sealant when the light is at certain angles, the camera sees the light reflecting off this and mistakes it for a white line but it can be overridden by holding the wheel firmer, or of course switching the lane assist off altogether.

Are you sure that it isn't speed sensitive? On my Superb it is only active I think at speeds above 40mph.

Just a thought but you have got the car in "ECO" mode, if so that be the reason as it would use less energy to cool the internal air rather than trying to cool down a constant stream of hot air?

Last night I scanned my Superb with my Carista device (I do have a VCDS, still learning it) and it found 4 faults associated with Ignition Authorization and they are reading from the screen:- 65794 - Data bus for suspension - 1 wire mode 133124 - Manufacturer specific code 221964 - Manufacturer specific code 221703 - Manufacturer specific code Engine:- 09491 - Manufacturer specific code Can anyone throw any light on these codes for me? I also have zero communication with the drivers seat, and zero memory function so I think that is related to the software/hardware issue that affected model my vintage and it may not have addressed at the time when it first came to light so I suspect it is a controller issue.

Yes, it was an option I found when playing about with my old Carista OBD11 unit. I do have a VCDS as well but I'm still learning how to use that correctly so I didn't use that for checking the options. IIRC the number plate bulb warning was on its own as a feature as were all the other light monitoring options, so I could always just deselect that option Until I get more time to check out the bulbs situation. I seem to recall that when I was checking though cars previous MOT history, it did fail one because it had no working number plates lights, so you may ne correct in your assumption, I'm still working my through the fine tuning to get this car how I like it, its just 2 weeks since I collected it. I also have a few other fault codes that I need to try and resolve, but they don't thrown up any warnings so must be just minor ones, but faults all the same and I don't knowing the car has faults so maybe I'll check them again tomorrow, do a reset and see if they come back again and post the codes.

Today I was checking on what options were activated on my mk3 and I noticed that the bulb failure feature was not active, so I enabled it and I then got an message telling me to check my number plate lights bulbs and I have 2 bulbs working OK despite the warning flag. I expect that these bulb detectors work by measuring the current a circuit is drawing, so if a bulb is blown, the circuit will not be drawing its normal current thus flagging it up as a bulb failure? So with this in mind, if someone has fitted LEDs in the number plate holders, the circuit would be drawing less power and hence the flagged warning? My owners manual makes no mention of what bulbs should be used and where other then the main ones, or how to access the number plate lights. How can I find out bulbs are fitted, how do I gain access to them and what bulbs should be fitted?

@MartiniB Thank you the photos showing where to place the tape, followed your example, reassembled the complete armrest and taken the car out for a test drive around some very bumpy and twisty country roads and even used the armrest, and its as quiet as the church mouse and feels every bit the premium car it was always meant to be. Strange how some people have said that their car has no creaks or groans and others have, so I wonder if there was a supply problem of fabric tape etc at some point in time so they just pushed ahead with making cars minus the sound deadening in what they considered to be less critical areas?💯

OK then, today I had yet another go at separating the padded top from the centre section of the armrest and after much swearing succeeded, besides the 2 clips that you kindly highlighted, I can now confirm that there are 6 others, well hidden the little blighters are as well. I had to enlist the services of my son as well to help as you need to be a flipping octopus to operate all the flaming clips 🤔. In addition to the ones you highlighted, I have highlighted these pesky ones in green as well in the photos and these locate in the holes also shown in green on the other photo, 3 each side of the rest. Those clips highlighted in red depict the visible ones that you can clearly see. Under no conditions attempt to move the 2 real big beefy clips, the ones that are situated towards the cup holder end of the rest, its the other smaller clips at the tunnel end of the rest, I highlighted both of these clips in red to aid identification, the ones not to try are by the label. Now that I have been able to separate the padded bit the armrest is extremely quiet and the only occasional squeak seems to be from the door card if I rest my knee on it and and a squeak every now and then from the steering cowling which I'll attempt at a later date. More on this later when I've completed the rest bit.

No, that bit is there along with the tab/handle its that bit that connects the 2 together that is missing.

Thats true, I might have a go later. Only problem being last time I tried this I was unable to release the clips.

I think that they are suitable but the video is misleading, it gives you the impression the thing is a single unit and able to be fitted from the front when it is 2 pieces. I might well be able to be fitted from the front, but it would certainly require the whole vent to be removed from the car and held in the position in order to snap the 2 parts together, with the added problem that the rear part is also hinged. I would have expected that VAG might have placed an order with that American company for them to design and make loads of 1 piece preassembled tabs that could just pressed onto the slats. It certainly save them loads of time in the factory from having assemble the parts for their own tabs.

I have fixed the rear vents, I now have problems with the centre dashboard vents. The left one moves the slats up and down but the left and right movement not working. I have the piece for that and the tab front but not the small bit that connects them. Hence the venttab link, they make these (sadly not for Superb), as a single piece that just clips onto the slat that seems ideal as concept. If only it was possible to find something like it, now more need for expensive complete vents to replaced.

I have just pulled my rear passenger air vents out as the left one had come part and it was not operating the vanes left to right. I could see the parts were still trapped in the vent so i managed to get it out and onto my bench. There I managed to strip it right down to its various parts and after a struggle managed to get it all working again and put back together. After refitting to the car, I noticed I have the same issue with the front passenger vent, albeit this time 1 part is missing completely. I have not as yet attempted to extract this vent as I can't find any info on how this comes out, so I wondered if it would be possible to fit new tabs from the front with it in still in the dash? I have spent a bit of Googling for replacement air vent tabs and it seems that there is an American company that makes replacement tabs that can be fitted without removing the entire vent, only problem is that they don't make them for the Superb, so that got me thinking. Has anybody used any other tabs on a Superb vent, ones could be fitted with the vent in situ? Shop Air Vent Parts for Cars, Trucks and SUVs | Vent Tabs