Graham Butcher

Perhaps you might post some details here if you know them?

Yes, it was a complete new headlamp unit and that was very expensive I was told that it was about £700 trade, but for a single unit it is probably even dearer but the dealer tells me that they got deal because he also had to replace the N/S rear lamp cluster and he was cheeky 😉 enough to ask if he could get a deal by buying both items. So unless you are able to get a trade deal I would expect that you'd be looking at something around £1000 per headlamp? Now is an interesting fact, I just Googled to see if you was put your car in an MOT test with the DRL's not working, would it pass or be a failure, and the answer is it would be a pass if your car was registered before 1st March 2018. Would a broken daytime running light be an MoT fail? | Ask Honest John | Honest John

Don't know for sure but that would appear to me to be just the standard tint, it was the sunlight striking full onto the front that made it appear darker.

I have had the same warning flash up 3 times in about a week recently, tried looking in the owners handbook and there is not a single mention of it in there, very useful indeed. In every case I already had the situation well under control so I have no idea just what the system was thinking at the time, I was almost stationary when it flashed up and I had a good couple of car lengths gap between me and the car in front? I also had lately the rear assist zones light up, but the car behind was a distance behind me. So does that also operate on the rate of their approach and give a warning if it thinks that a collision might occur? I just found this video online which explains the front assist and many others as well. Škoda Kamiq - Videos (skoda-auto.com)

Well, I had a Nissan Qashqai as loan car while mine was being assessed, I had it for 2 months and I would say that the level of interaction with that was dangerous at least for the first few times of it kicking in, completely the opposite to how the system operates on my current car. Given the state of Britain's roads at the moment, when the Qashqai system kicked in it would vibrate and the feel of that is similar to driving on a really rough road with loads of smaller potholes so you tend to grip the wheel firmer. Then the car would make violent course corrections to try and keep you in lane, which has the effect of the driver then starts to fight it and the car can be seen wobbling as the driver and the system battle each other. Once you are aware of it and how to set it up, you can disable the vibration and then it makes more sense as it will still steer you back into lane safely and because you are not then confusing it with bad road surface, takes control of the steering smoothly, just as it does in the Superb.

I may do that when the undertray arrives, or I may just get my dealer to order one for me, if I need to order the fixings for the tray, its not important for now.

Looks like some sort of moth that has been attacked, part of its left wing is missing. Beautiful camouflage though.

Thank you that endorsement, the world is full of rip off merchants and people like Radford's should be supported and highlighted, the world needs more good guys like them.

Wow, what dammed good customer service, last night I emailed the dealer and asked about the missing engine undertray as they had done, prior to me purchasing the car, a cambelt change, water pump at the same time as Skoda recommend, a full engine service along with a DSG gearbox service and oil change, a new N/S headlamp replacement as the DRL had packed up (Xenon) and a new replacement N/S rear lamp unit, lens had been broken, new discs and pads all round. My thinking was that they had to remove the undertray in order to carry out the engine service etc and might simply have forgotten to replace it afterwards, so I asked them if it was laying around in their service bay someplace at all. This morning I received a nice email back saying that they had checked all of their records and discovered that they had received the car minus the tray when they purchased the car from Skoda fleet operations and as a gesture of goodwill, they were ordering one from an aftermarket supplier and having it delivered to me at home, a 145 miles away from them in Mansfield. What brilliant customer service and it is real treat it is to deal with a reputable dealer, especially after coming across their complete opposite in Heathrow, who even wanted me to buy a car with a huge crack in the windscreen and claim a replacement on my insurance, err, no way it was a MOT failure and a major safety hazard. So if anyone is looking for a decent 2nd hand Skoda, I can 100% recommend you check out the dealer where I got mine from, they buy lots of cars from Skoda leasing and always seem to have plenty of stock on hand, their details are: Radford Motor Sales Ltd, 337A Nottingham Road, Mansfield, NG18 4SG. Tel. 01623 652004 www.radfordsgarage.co.uk I'm glad I discovered them.

That is what I thought you updated it for, just wanted to check to make sure my assumption was correct. Currently I'm not having any of the issues as listed in the TPI, so may not do the update at this juncture, but I do want to do at some point soon is to try and update the maps, POI and also get the TMC working again, which I still have to research further. But well done on your "how to" guide, we really more of these types of guides for the benefit of other members. 👍

Many thanks for doing this, what prompted you to do this in the first place, in other words, why did you update, was it to fix a problem or just a desire to have the latest firmware etc? If it was to fix a problem, what problem were you having?

Yes, but as mine was actually hitting and then going onto the pillar, it needed to be approx 20 to 25mm of adjustment to get back to the same position as yours, which now means that mine also now sits at 10 to 12mm from the pillar at worst case. When parked it is now slightly downhill rather than level, but as it is lower than bonnet level, it is not noticeable and it always parks on the glass so all is good 👍

Snap, I thought the same so I rolled the car back and guess what there it wasn't, I got my high power LED torch and searched around the engine bay looking for it and that was how I discovered the missing undertray 😒 Breezy_Pete Has found the part number for it and its classified as external noise insulation panel, it has a huge piece of sound damping material on it, and that helps to explain why this mk3 sounds far noisier than my old mk2, that had all of its underbody trays intact.

Hard going, apparently. 🤣 Would appreciate a link to the instructions on how to do it, please.

Hooray, the Amazon driver has just been and delivered my wiper arm puller tool. I dashed out to give it a whirl, removed the rubber cap and placed in the scuttle, undid the retention nut a few turns and slipped on the tool, (one thing to note is that it does not come with the required 8mm Allen key, so if anyone is ordering one, make sure you have a Allen key), gave it few turns, tool remained securely locked on with zero attempts to slip off. A few more turns and "Crack", the arm was free and yes the taper is indeed splined, moved the arm very slightly away from the A pillar and tightened up the nut nice and tight, went to replace the rubber cap, and its gone, can't find it anywhere 🙄. Oh well, tried out the wipers with a drenched screen and full speed and there was silence, no more smacking into the pillar, success, now to try and find another rubber cap. One thing I did find though, was that the plastic under tray for the engine is missing, never noticed that before as I just thought it would be there. I can see the 2 side pieces that it attaches to and it looks like the clips etc are there so I'm guessing the dealer removed it when they did the engine and gearbox service and forgot to refit it. Anyone know the part number and the cost of it at all? I don't think it would be worth my while driving another 290 miles round trip to Mansfield to pick it up, assuming the dealer still has it?

I don't think it would foul anything but in reality I don't need to reset it by much, just enough to stop the very tip of the blade coming into contact with the pillar at the top, I just need it to stop when it is parallel to the pillar that's all.

Yes, I understood just what you was meaning, I also found some YT videos showing how crack the bond between spindle and the arm using mole grips etc, and none of these worked, hence I ordered the correct tool for the job. I would not want to be break the screen as it is a heated one and would cost a considerable amount to replace, so I took the view, better safe than sorry on this occasion 😉.

Yeah, once I break the grip I'll position the arm in the service position so that it stops about 20 to 25mm from the A pillar and lock it up again. When it's in the parked position it still has roughly 40 to 50 mm to go before it reaches the bottom of the screen so I should be golden then.

Nah, I already tried that and failed.

I do hope it has splines, otherwise its going to be a real pig to stop it from hitting the pillar. No its not old one at all, its a 2016 model. You were brave whacking that rear arm with a hammer, could have smashed the window.

I ordered one of these in the end from Amazon, it is much more expensive but if it works, it's all good. I read loads of reviews of that other type and most say that it is not worth the money as it breaks apart etc. I did try to release it using a hefty pair of pipe grips, but it was not budging. This one looks like a real sturdy bit of kit with its nice chunky casting. Fingers crossed it works and the are turns out to be a splined one after all, so I can reset it 1 spline further round to avoid the pillar completely.

Yes, it is the correct blade, 26" on the drivers side and 18" on the passengers.

There is a very small bit of play, maybe around 7 to 10 mm at the very tip of the blade, but I suspect that might be the case anyway as you are bound to have some form of play in the mechanism. That said however I was unable to pull the arm off the shaft as it is firm stuck to it, I need to find or make up some form of puller to crack its grip so I can then reposition the arm by 1 spline to the right (as looking at it from front) so the arm does not go fully vertical (assuming it also does not then hit the bottom of the screen), and then try that arrangement.

I have to discovered that the wiper blade is striking the top of the A pillar on drivers side and is actually taking the paint off but when the wipers are parked they are perfectly aligned and they don't show any signs of excessive wear in the system at rest position. I was wondering if the arm might be repositioned in a slightly more down position when parked, if this would then stop striking the A pillar when in use?

I have the self same issues with my seat as well. It has never worked in the time I have owned the car, I plugged my VCDS in and it reports 7 faults with it, in all of its axis there is no basic setting/calibration. How do I correct this please, using the VCDS?