Graham Butcher

That is what I thought you updated it for, just wanted to check to make sure my assumption was correct. Currently I'm not having any of the issues as listed in the TPI, so may not do the update at this juncture, but I do want to do at some point soon is to try and update the maps, POI and also get the TMC working again, which I still have to research further. But well done on your "how to" guide, we really more of these types of guides for the benefit of other members. 👍

Many thanks for doing this, what prompted you to do this in the first place, in other words, why did you update, was it to fix a problem or just a desire to have the latest firmware etc? If it was to fix a problem, what problem were you having?

Yes, but as mine was actually hitting and then going onto the pillar, it needed to be approx 20 to 25mm of adjustment to get back to the same position as yours, which now means that mine also now sits at 10 to 12mm from the pillar at worst case. When parked it is now slightly downhill rather than level, but as it is lower than bonnet level, it is not noticeable and it always parks on the glass so all is good 👍

Snap, I thought the same so I rolled the car back and guess what there it wasn't, I got my high power LED torch and searched around the engine bay looking for it and that was how I discovered the missing undertray 😒 Breezy_Pete Has found the part number for it and its classified as external noise insulation panel, it has a huge piece of sound damping material on it, and that helps to explain why this mk3 sounds far noisier than my old mk2, that had all of its underbody trays intact.

Hard going, apparently. 🤣 Would appreciate a link to the instructions on how to do it, please.

Hooray, the Amazon driver has just been and delivered my wiper arm puller tool. I dashed out to give it a whirl, removed the rubber cap and placed in the scuttle, undid the retention nut a few turns and slipped on the tool, (one thing to note is that it does not come with the required 8mm Allen key, so if anyone is ordering one, make sure you have a Allen key), gave it few turns, tool remained securely locked on with zero attempts to slip off. A few more turns and "Crack", the arm was free and yes the taper is indeed splined, moved the arm very slightly away from the A pillar and tightened up the nut nice and tight, went to replace the rubber cap, and its gone, can't find it anywhere 🙄. Oh well, tried out the wipers with a drenched screen and full speed and there was silence, no more smacking into the pillar, success, now to try and find another rubber cap. One thing I did find though, was that the plastic under tray for the engine is missing, never noticed that before as I just thought it would be there. I can see the 2 side pieces that it attaches to and it looks like the clips etc are there so I'm guessing the dealer removed it when they did the engine and gearbox service and forgot to refit it. Anyone know the part number and the cost of it at all? I don't think it would be worth my while driving another 290 miles round trip to Mansfield to pick it up, assuming the dealer still has it?

I don't think it would foul anything but in reality I don't need to reset it by much, just enough to stop the very tip of the blade coming into contact with the pillar at the top, I just need it to stop when it is parallel to the pillar that's all.

Yes, I understood just what you was meaning, I also found some YT videos showing how crack the bond between spindle and the arm using mole grips etc, and none of these worked, hence I ordered the correct tool for the job. I would not want to be break the screen as it is a heated one and would cost a considerable amount to replace, so I took the view, better safe than sorry on this occasion 😉.

Yeah, once I break the grip I'll position the arm in the service position so that it stops about 20 to 25mm from the A pillar and lock it up again. When it's in the parked position it still has roughly 40 to 50 mm to go before it reaches the bottom of the screen so I should be golden then.

Nah, I already tried that and failed.

I do hope it has splines, otherwise its going to be a real pig to stop it from hitting the pillar. No its not old one at all, its a 2016 model. You were brave whacking that rear arm with a hammer, could have smashed the window.

I ordered one of these in the end from Amazon, it is much more expensive but if it works, it's all good. I read loads of reviews of that other type and most say that it is not worth the money as it breaks apart etc. I did try to release it using a hefty pair of pipe grips, but it was not budging. This one looks like a real sturdy bit of kit with its nice chunky casting. Fingers crossed it works and the are turns out to be a splined one after all, so I can reset it 1 spline further round to avoid the pillar completely.

Yes, it is the correct blade, 26" on the drivers side and 18" on the passengers.

There is a very small bit of play, maybe around 7 to 10 mm at the very tip of the blade, but I suspect that might be the case anyway as you are bound to have some form of play in the mechanism. That said however I was unable to pull the arm off the shaft as it is firm stuck to it, I need to find or make up some form of puller to crack its grip so I can then reposition the arm by 1 spline to the right (as looking at it from front) so the arm does not go fully vertical (assuming it also does not then hit the bottom of the screen), and then try that arrangement.

I have to discovered that the wiper blade is striking the top of the A pillar on drivers side and is actually taking the paint off but when the wipers are parked they are perfectly aligned and they don't show any signs of excessive wear in the system at rest position. I was wondering if the arm might be repositioned in a slightly more down position when parked, if this would then stop striking the A pillar when in use?

I have the self same issues with my seat as well. It has never worked in the time I have owned the car, I plugged my VCDS in and it reports 7 faults with it, in all of its axis there is no basic setting/calibration. How do I correct this please, using the VCDS?

I must admit after watching all the various YT videos of the mk3 with DCC that I was expecting a far more compliant ride from comfort mode, TBH I don't think it is much different to the ride of the mk2 without DCC which is a bit of a let down.

Thanks for the explanation, last night I tweaked my settings in the individual mode to give comfort and eco modes plus the AFS mode for the lighting. I could never work out why they decided that people using the eco would not wish to take advantage of the extra safety of enhanced lighting mode?

Yes, I did that and it seems to be working OK. I thought that it might also turn the radio volume up as well but it doesn't, its a strange way of doing it compared to the mk2.

What I'm saying is that my car would not fit in my garage as the garage also has other gear in it like 2 freezers etc and unlike garages which standalone, mine is part of the house structure and also part of the neighbours house. In there words, it is attached to both houses and the garage door only just fits between them so when you get inside the garage it measures something like 2.6metres wide between the walls and with the doors on a Superb being larger than most smaller cars, and the doors are indeed thicker most other cars, that there is insufficient space to open the door and get of the car. It might just be OK if you are built like Twiggy but totally useless if you have a large frame like I have. The neighbour who has the race to get the spot outside of my house, also cannot use their garage, mainly because they are using as a living space even.

Nope, it wouldn't fit in the garage, myself and my 3 sons are all 1.94m tall and me and my eldest are built like brick sh1thouses and while I could fit into most drivers seats not even my wife could possibly sit behind me as there is literally about 2" between the back of drivers seat and the back seat. One of those cars would have been fine when the boys were babies in their baby seats but as adults, no way on earth. Hence why I was looking for so long to find another decent Superb, or other similar sized car that was reasonably cheap to to maintain, tax, insure and run.😤

Every body in the street has a drive, the garage, having one or not is a red herring if your car will not fit in it as they are designed around the smallest cars and in my case a small car will not fit me or my family, people come in all sizes and shapes and its about time that developers understood that. As to the tree and also my house, my house is owned by a housing association and the tree I would therefore think is on their land and therefore theirs. I cannot just go and cut it down because I don't own it. The HA say that they don't own it or the land that it stands on, and neither does the City council or the County council, so someone is not telling the truth, but one thing you be sure off is that should I take the law into my hands and do something with the tree I'd be in trouble.

So does that mean that when I'm in ECO mode, it is also in COMFORT DCC setting as that is the last DCC mode before the ECO or how does this operate?

And will it then remember this setting for any subsequent calls, or do you have to do it every time? On the mk2 I never had to do that, there was a setting in the menu to set incoming call volumes.

Is there any real noticeable difference between DCC settings? I use mine mostly in ECO mode but sometimes I select COMFORT but I have not noticed any difference in comfort. Plugging the VCDS in and it reports zero problems with the system?