jos

I've just needed to replace my windscreen wiper motor and had a difficult time trying to work out how to do it without smashing the scuttle panel, but have successfully done it and thought I'd share it with you. Hope this helps Mark the wiper blades position using tape on the windscreen (masking tape for example) Pop the bonnet Remove the caps at the bottom of each wiper blade & safely store Remove the wiper blade arm nuts using a 13mm socket (or spanner if you so wish) Soft close the bonnet & remove both wiper arms Reopen the bonnet & remove the soft rubber strip at the rear of the engine bay which keep sthe scuttle panel down. Now comes the hard part........ The wiper motor cover panel/scuttle panel is removed by gently lifting the driver side first by inserting a flat headed screwdriver from the passengers side towards the drivers side & gently lifting. It is secured into position by a plastic (moulded) strip along the majority of its length inserted into another plastic strip secured to the windscreen, which can be seen by gently lifting the soft rubber strip at the bottom of the windscreen. This securing strip stays in place on the windscreen, and only the scuttle panel needs to be removed. Once lifted the windscreen washer tubes need to be removed to allow the panel to be safely stored until later. Once the scuttle panel is removed you can then access anything underneath it, such as the wiper motor. The wiper motor & wiper mechanism is removed by removing the 3 star shaped (hex??) securing screws and gently manipulating the whole ensemble out from the bulkhead. Be careful as the washer tubes & other various electrical cables will get in the way and need to be gently pushed aside. The motor & mechanism do come out, they just need a bit of gentle persuasion. Prior to completely removing the motor & mechanism the cable connector needs to be removed. Once off the car the motor & mechanism needs to be dismantled by firstly removing the 2 arms. These just get popped off using a flat tool with a long handle and a bit of brute force. The motor comes away from the mechanism by undoing the 3 10mm bolts using a spanner or socket. Remove the old motor and replace with the new. Once the new one is on the mounting plate, the rotating arm needs to be pointing towards the passeger side (I think), otherwise the wipers will move downwards before returning to their normal position. It took me ages to figure this one out, but i got there in the end. Refit the 2 arms making sure the spinning arm is as close to horizontal as you can get it and reinstall (gently) back into the car, making sure the electrical connection is clicked back into position. I would thoroughly reccommend testing the system before refitting the scuttle panel or wiper blades. The wiper spindles need to spin anti clockwise at first, or up the windscreen. Once refitted & conencted, turn the electrics on. If the motor thinks its not in the right position (horizontal) it will automatically reset itself. Once reset, closely observe the spin direction to ensure it is correct. If it spins downwards first, remove the motor & mechanism & flip rotate the spinning arm by 180 degrees. Refit & test. Once satisfied that the motor causes the spindles to spin in the correct direction, refit the scuttle panel, and wiper arms. The arms will probably need the bonnet to be closed to refit them, but the nuts will need the bonnet open to do them up. Lastly refit the soft rubber strip to the back of the engine bay that keeps the scuttle panel down/secure, and job done. Hope this helps Cheers Jos www.josbrownlie.co.uk @josbrownlie

Hi folks, your help please Ive got a really annoying rattle that sounds like its coming from the dashboard area, almost from within the air vents. However, adjusting the fan/air con settings has not effect on the volume or tone o fthe rattle. It normally happens above 40mph and always above 60 so cruising is a right pain. Even the stereo doesnt completely drown it out. Ive tried a search and investigated everything I can see from that. Ive taken out the glove box (easy peasy, 5 screws plus the lamp connector) and its out and had a look and a feel around but cant seem to be able to pin point it and stop it Any ideas

ta daa pics reuploaded

I'll sort the pics out now Sorry for the delay

What size jubilees are they, i tried to fit 30-40 mm ones two days ago but they werent big enough

PROBLEM SOLVED YIPPEE - THANKS FAINTREE GARAGE - BRIDGNORTH - SHROPSHIRE I can thoroughly reccomend these guys to any and everybody who has a probelm with their Skoda. These guys DO actually KNOW THEIR STUFF and as if that wasnt enough theyre not so far up their own ar$es that they dont listen to their customers and they actually take time to solve their customers probelms unlike a chain of skoda dealers in Shropshire whove lightened my wallet of in excess of £200 trying to solve the problem. The solution - the throttle valve was stripped and cleaned and a turbo pipe was replaced - i think that the majority of the problem was due to the gunked up valve but whilst they ahd it we decided it was a good idea to do the pipe. All of these are photos of the valve AFTER cleaning. Before there was a load of black gunk on the inlet side of the valve which stopped air from passing into the head causing the mixture at idle & low revs to be incorrect which make the running/jerking/stuttering occur. Whip it out, clean it so its smooth metal with carb cleaner, whip out the sensor a bit further on, reassemble and voila - no more problem. You can see in the first photo the air gap that should be present on the right hand side, there is one on the left too but its not as visible due to the angle i was holding the housing at. These two pics are of the hose that was replaced which was done at the same time - I dont think that the oil is anything to worry about but i could be wrong. Either way the splutter is GONE and I'm over the moon. Very easy job to do too and i'll get some poics of the engine bay soon to show which bolts to remove & which hoses to remove so that you guys can see if yours is gunked up too.

My vRS is booked in at a local skoda dealer (Ive got three or four to choose from). This one was reccommended by another vRS owner who rates them highly. I rang them at lunchtime and explained the symptoms. They have heard of it on a number of occasions and believe the fault to be the dirty plenum and a turbo pipe (although it may be the intercooler pipe or maybe vac pipe). Its booked in for a week on saturday so I will be very interested to see if the problem goes away and will let you all know. They reckon around £100 to do the work and it'll take 1.5 hrs. Fingers crossed

whats the part no for the coolant sensor

I noticed that mu door led wasnt flashing recently too. My car had been broken into through the front passenger window & something had gone wrong with the central locking unit on that door as when I locked the car, to my horror, i found that i could open the front passenger door on occasions. This led me to believe that if the light isnt flashing then it telling me that the system has NOT deadlocked and there the vehicle is not secure. Needless to say its gone into the dealers to get the lock fixed/replaced

Ive been filling up with Tesco's standard unleaded, and ever since, touch wood, my judder/stutter problem has got ALOT better

Nokia 6111 - Nokia's variation on the SL55 theme

before you try getting it programmed in, have you tried putting your key into the lock and turning it as far clock wise as it will go and holding it there for 10 seconds. If this doesnt do anything try turning and holding if fully anti clockwise for 10 seconds. I cant remember which way to turn it on mine but one of the ways works on mine

Telford's only a small place so youre extreemly close to me. I work out in the sticks and live in Shawbirch

Where abouts in the midlands are you?

Ive voted for no failures. However I do have 2 different types of coil packs so the previous owner might of not been so lucky and i dont hold out much hope of continuing to be so lucky in the future

There are a number of things which I am still trying to try to sort out my stutter problem which is exactly the same as you are experiencing Coil Packs Lazy MAF Dirty plenum The skoda garage I took mine to said the MAF was fine & the plenum too but I dont believe them. I'll keep you posted as long as you keep me posted too. Hopefully between us we'll get it resolved

I had a very similar problem on mine. I hooked it up to VAG COM and got error code 17978 which I didnt think was anything to worry about. I got fed up with the jerking so booked it it and the error code was rectified by the mechanic wiggling some wires. Not the best of resoloutions but its sorted it any way. Try to get it onto VAG COM and see whether any errors are present.

Well the garage has just given her back to me having had the 17978 code remedied. They say my jolting power should be cleared now. We'll see. Got antihijacking activated too now, although it doesnt auto unlock - will try and get that sorted

is it any good???

Try looking on http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/audi.dtc.table.htm

Mines a 2002 52 plate btw

Ive got one similar to http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-VAG-COM-409-COMPATIBLE-KKL-DUAL-K-OBD-2-CABLE-OU_W0QQitemZ8067169227QQcategoryZ30921QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and use software version 311.2 from http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html

Ive got VAG COM & version 311.2

I dont believe they are faults or errors that would log a fault, i think the maf is just lazy and the plenum needs cleaning

I'm experience un even power delivery and believe it to be attributed to one of three things, lazy MAF, clogged plenum, or coil packs. As Ive now eliminated coil packs (even though I know theyre the wrong type) as far as I can from the equation, I'm happy to give her to the pros for further investigation