The saga continues with my 1997 1.3 LX Felicia. It looks like the ECU is buggered, but MOT now expired as well. Garage has a second hand ECU to try, if it doesn't work, then it's a dead un.

Now I've been offered a T reg 1.6 GLXI for free, but it's 200 miles away. It has a few small problems, like a very slow oil leak, and the temp gauge doesn't work, but for a free car with 7 months MOT left I think I'm going to take the chance with that one regardless of what happens to my old one. The people giving it away just want rid of it, as it's now been replaced by another car.

My question is; The temp gauge malfunctioning, is that a major problem to sort out?

If the garage get back to me with 'good' news about my old Skoda, then I could end up with two Skodas!!! If not, then I'm not sure if it's worth keeping the old one for spares for the new one, as they are quite different engines, I'm thinking the only parts salvageable would be bodywork and trim items.

To think I was going to ditch Skoda and get a huge bank loan for a new car!!! LOL.

Bad alternator voltage regulator can kill ECU's so hopefully the second hand one isn't just being bunged in as whatever killed the old one could possibly kill that.

Temp gauge, if the car runs fine, most likely the gauge itself is at fault? Or just a cruddy wire connection needing cleaning up. Either way it shouldn't be major - and I wonder if the instrument panel from your current car will work with it.

Other salvageable bits worth keeping include

• suspension struts (springs and shock absorbers)
  
• wheels with tyres including spare if legal
  
• all the lights
  
• all the seatbelts as well (fray = MOT fail)
  
• wiper motor (again MOT fail item)
  
• coolant bottle and windscreen washer bottles could be worth keeping if the same
  
• battery if in good condition and of same spec
  
• radiator fan (if same) and heater fan assemblies
  
• fusebox may be the same and worth keeping
  
• the seats can easily be swapped if need be
  
• could attempt to keep window glass from the doors in case of breakage (practising removing it on a car that you're scrapping anyway may make installing it yourself easier - or you could keep the entire door)
  
• door locks could be worth keeping, and are relatively easy to remove - also ignition key and steering lock, and the boot lock and petrol cap (would try seal it up with newspaper and duct tape or something)
  
• steering rack if both the same and relatively low mileage on it (chuck the track rod ends as they're cheap enough)
  

That's all I can think of but there's probably more. It is also worth pulling it to pieces yourself as it's good practice for if you ever need to do the same to your next car

Slow oil leaks are frequently a slightly loose rocker/cam cover or oil filter. You can imagine how hard those are to fix!

Oh and if there's any petrol left, what with cost of petrol these days.... http://briskoda.net/forums/favorit-felicia-fun-forman/anti-syphon-device/112444/ don't know if it would be the same wire mentioned in that post on the 1.3.

the small oil leak maybe from the front of the oil pump, the two bolts either side of the crank pulley have to be removed to replace the timing belt and often they aren't done up tight enough afterwards and you get a slight leak. often confused wrongly for the crank oil seal itself

before you go pulling out the instrument cluster make sure that there isn't any broken wires/ bad or corroded connections etc on this sensor. it is quite common for the wires to break off these due to the wiring loom being quite a 'stretch' to fit the sensor

Thanks for the advice everyone. I forgot to say that the cause of the minor oil leak is already known by the current owner. Apparently it's something to do with it being scraped on a speed bump. It's very minor, and it passed it's MOT in that condition.

I didn't realise they'd be that much salvageable from the 1.3 that could be used on the 1.6

I'll see if I can get it towed back to my house, after I settle up with the garage. If I strip the old car, will there be any issues with getting someone to collect it for scrap? thinking if it's got no wheels (I'll take the spare, as it's in good condition) they might not be so keen.

The wife is going to love me, filling the outhouse with bits of the old car! LOL.

I imagine they won't have any problems collecting it off bricks as they'll probably hoist it up anyway, as they have to deal with cars involved in crashes etc where they may not be able to use the wheels anyway. Suppose it depends on how new/good the tyres are though to make it worth the hassle.

Scrap metal is worth quite alot at the moment so I can imagine people tripping over themselves to come take it off your hands.

That's reassuring.

I haven't got the new one yet, as I have to collect it from Yorkshire, but I've just remembered that the other problem with it is the air vent blower doesn't work on the 1.6

You know what I'm thinking. Can I butcher the air vent motor/blower from the 1.3 to fit on the 1.6, or are they incompatible?

I would keep the 1.6 if its ok, and then if the 1.3 is ok - sell it, why not?!

You know what I'm thinking. Can I butcher the air vent motor/blower from the 1.3 to fit on the 1.6, or are they incompatible?

Just checked and the heat blower fans are both the same for 1.3 and 1.6. Remember it could be the switch or something else that is faulty too, and WD40 may get it working anyway.

Just checked and the heat blower fans are both the same for 1.3 and 1.6. Remember it could be the switch or something else that is faulty too, and WD40 may get it working anyway.

That is great news. I would try to get the 1.6 one working first. Being a complete amateur in these things, if a squirt of WD40 can fix it, I'll always try that first.

As for selling the 1.3, it's a none runner, with a missing ECU now, and no MOT, even if it was working worth around £150, so I don't think it's a viable option to sell it. It'd be far better to butcher parts for the 1.6 and save a bit of cash that way.

If they've scraped the sump, that's probably where the leak is. A new sump's probably going to run about £40, plus an hour removing and replacing bolts and gasket, plus 4 or 5 litres of oil.

yeah if you got a new sump,

you could fit it yourself. - its not difficult.

Saves alot of money, just get the oil and gasket too, like KenONeill said.

i've got a sump for a 1.6 here somewhere

Based on PSA TU engine; details may vary:-

1) Drain oil. If an oil change is due, remove filter too. In fact, for sick squid, may as well do this anyway.

2) Jack up front of car and support on axle stands

3) Drop exhaust front pipe from manifold.

4) Progressively loosen, then remove, all sump bolts.

5) Strike side of sump until it comes loose.

6) Clean jointing compound from block face (presumes replacement sump is new).

7) Apply jointing compound to new sump, and press into place.

8) Fit all bolts.

9) Torque up bolts progressively.

10) Refit front pipe.

11) Fit new oil filter, and refil with fresh oil.

12) Rejoice in having saved £Lots on garage labour! Even if you had to buy the tools, you'll still have a saving.

Based on PSA TU engine; details may vary:-

1) Drain oil. If an oil change is due, remove filter too. In fact, for sick squid, may as well do this anyway.

2) Jack up front of car and support on axle stands

3) Drop exhaust front pipe from manifold.

4) Progressively loosen, then remove, all sump bolts.

5) Strike side of sump until it comes loose.

6) Clean jointing compound from block face (presumes replacement sump is new).

7) Apply jointing compound to new sump, and press into place.

8) Fit all bolts.

9) Torque up bolts progressively.

10) Refit front pipe.

11) Fit new oil filter, and refil with fresh oil.

12) Rejoice in having saved £Lots on garage labour! Even if you had to buy the tools, you'll still have a saving.

all sounds good to me ken'o except it should be possible to do it without removing the exhaust:)

I did say "details may vary". Exhaust location and presence or not of a sump gasket being the main details I had in mind!

yeah, there is no sump gasket, you use sealant on it

You lot are so bloody helpful. Thank you very much. I'll not tell the person who's kindly giving me the car, that it's this easy to sort out

TeflonTom you have given that engine bay a damned good clean!!!

The 1.6s are quite bulletproof as are well kept 1.3s.

I've had to have a new Thermostat and fan switch last year but its had no problems since.

Although I think it may need a new rad sometime in the future as i've seen pink residue in one corner.

if your getting pink on the outside of the radiator then it's time to replace it

Just had a look, its not pink but it looks rusty and corroded in the bottom left corner

I can get a Rad off Fleabay for £30 if thats worth it?

that's a bit expensive for a second hand one....

Scrap is fetching a good price these days. We weighed in an Escort estate the other week, drove it to the yard and got £145 for it.