What are the options for tuning an Octy II VRS TDI?

Are there tuning boxes on the market yet that actually work with this engine?

Are there any companies remapping the ECU either?

Is this engine just the same as the TDI 140 or not?

Thanks in advance

Paul.

Paul - try the search function - there is a fair bit on this topic about the forum already.

After seeing a friends VRS TDI on the dyno yesterday with a Superchip Bluefin map installed - I'd say that was a good a place as any to start. Think the figures were around 200bhp and 300lb/ft.

Lee

I think you mean 205 lbs / 310 lbs ..

:lol:

Also run on a Dyno Dynamics RR at Torque of the Devil.

I have SuperChips

203.2 BHP (207 PS) and 316 lbft

Here is RR graph:

Thats vitually the same as the Graph i have for the missus car

How are you getting on with the DPF after the S/chip was installed?

Touching wood... (no funny comments people )

The DPF has been fine, we had a A3 Sline with the same engine and no stop problems with the DPF until they used another update on the cars software. The Audi was bog standard to.

I have REVO. No idea what the figures are as I have not RR'd it yet. Feels good though!

As for my DPF, I have had the light on 3 times since the REVO and never before (13000 miles!) But saying that, the light is clear within 5-8 mins at motorway speeds and I have been driving more around town lately anyway, which will bring up the light!

You really know when the DPF is full as the engine splutters and hessitates, also the exhaust takes on an entirely new, deep rumbling bass sound!!! Some people pay good money for that last bit!!:P

Thats vitually the same as the Graph i have for the missus car

One would hope so for the same engine and same map!

How are you getting on with the DPF after the S/chip was installed?

It has come on 3 or 4 times in a year.

All incidents have been the morning after or after an idle period following unusually "brisk" runs.

My DPF has not been triggered by round town use, but backroad "rallying". Very rich full throttle stomps, with sudden backing off (the former dumps fuel, but has no boost initially and therefore no air and hence soot plumes, and the later which dumps turbo pressure via wastegate but not necessarily after fuel has burnt, leading to soot plumes).

It quite happily regenerates itself over an 8 mile / 15 min run. I just leave it in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear (depending on speed limit) at 2-2.5k rpm using cruise control and let the low load/high air mass burn off the soot build up.

It has come on 3 or 4 times in a year.

All incidents have been the morning after or after an idle period following unusually "brisk" runs.

My DPF has not been triggered by round town use, but backroad "rallying". Very rich full throttle stomps, with sudden backing off (the former dumps fuel, but has no boost initially and therefore no air and hence soot plumes, and the later which dumps turbo pressure via wastegate but not necessarily after fuel has burnt, leading to soot plumes).

It quite happily regenerates itself over an 8 mile / 15 min run. I just leave it in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear (depending on speed limit) at 2-2.5k rpm using cruise control and let the low load/high air mass burn off the soot build up.

Same here. The only time my light has come on in 22k miles was the morning after giving it some stick on some twisty Scottish roads, full throttle to nothing for about an hour.

It quite happily regenerates itself over an 8 mile / 15 min run. I just leave it in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear (depending on speed limit) at 2-2.5k rpm using cruise control and let the low load/high air mass burn off the soot build up.

Your principal is correct, but official recommendation for DPF regeneration is to use 1,800 - 2,000rpm in 4th or 5th (from Skoda Assistance/RAC man with his diagnostic laptop connected when my exhaust gas pressure sensor went on the blink).

As to tuning; a simple less costly option is to fit a K&N 57i induction kit and use V-Power with Millers Diesel Sport4 (double dose); resulting in 190bhp and 280ft lb (well nearly);-

Your principal is correct, but official recommendation for DPF regeneration is to use 1,800 - 2,000rpm in 4th or 5th (from Skoda Assistance/RAC man with his diagnostic laptop connected when my exhaust gas pressure sensor went on the blink).

The required outcome is that the engine pump more air (oxygen) through the engine than is required for complete burn (so that there is still unused oxygen available at DPF catalyst to convert carbon soot to CO2 as a gas).

This is acheived any time the engine is in low load (low fuel) and in the turbo range.

The official operating DPF appendix (available from dealers in a friendly format or in handbook) states that the rpm should be NO LESS THAN 2,000 rpm and that higher engine speeds are perfectly acceptable, should legal and other conditions allow etc.

Admittedly, using 2nd or 3rd may be less efficient, but is does clear the DPF and it does mean you can operate the regeneration cycle at low road speeds or slower conditions (not all roads allow 40-5- mph!)

The required outcome is that the engine pump more air (oxygen) through the engine than is required for complete burn (so that there is still unused oxygen available at DPF catalyst to convert carbon soot to CO2 as a gas).

This is acheived any time the engine is in low load (low fuel) and in the turbo range.

The official operating DPF appendix (available from dealers in a friendly format or in handbook) states that the rpm should be NO LESS THAN 2,000 rpm and that higher engine speeds are perfectly acceptable, should legal and other conditions allow etc.

Admittedly, using 2nd or 3rd may be less efficient, but is does clear the DPF and it does mean you can operate the regeneration cycle at low road speeds or slower conditions (not all roads allow 40-5- mph!)

Good to know; so we are probably both right; I drove up the Motorway at 1900rpm in 5th for about 10 miles and it cleared the DPF.

Interestingly in 20,000 miles motoring (so far), including a daily run in congested NW London traffic, I have only had the DPF light on twice; both occasions being at the time there was a fault with my Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor!

Just added a bluefin to this months bills. Only driven it up the road and back so yet to really appreciate it, certainly seems more pokey, and a little harder to get traction especially in todays showers. Bit of hassle getting the map sent across, not much of a computer person so bit nervous and clueless, but the helpdesk were very helpful. Seemed a bit fiddly and frustrating at first but now once done seems reasonably simple.

Two questions, if the dpf light comes on, can you leave sorting it out until the next day, or do you have to extend your drive and drag everyone in the car up and down the motorway until its cleared?

I haven't experienced it yet, but with this now in place will there be an increase in smoke from the exhaust (before i panic) at times?

Two questions, if the dpf light comes on, can you leave sorting it out until the next day, or do you have to extend your drive and drag everyone in the car up and down the motorway until its cleared?

I haven't experienced it yet, but with this now in place will there be an increase in smoke from the exhaust (before i panic) at times?

It would be better to extend your drive for two reasons, the soot wont settle/bond (a possibility if it cools and especially if/when moisture condenses in DPF) and the engine/exhaust system will already be a operating temerature. Leaving it overnight will result in "cold start" fueling (rich) and high catalyst condensation from initial cold system on exhaust H2O.

These issues are not permanent, they just mean the DPF regeneration cycle is likely to be longer as the system needs to reach normal operating temperature before cycle can be initiated and there is the danger that if the DPF (if very full and regen continually ignored or failed to complete) may tip into dealer only regeneration (ammonia has to be injected into system to flush soot) and the car will enter low power limp mode to protect itself. Ultimate DPF misuse will require new DPF catalyst to be fitted. This is unlikely to be a warranty item!

To be fair though, I assume that like most warnings the system is particularly conservative, so you could "push" it a bit. But as with low fuel warning, it probably doesn't really pay to play "petrol station roulette" etc in the long run)

The other thing is, it will be sod's law that the next run you will be in a rush and can't regen it properly.

Hi guys, new to the forum.

I'm also looking to tune the vRS TDI. I've only covered 1200 miles in it so far. Getting the Bluefin shouldn't be a problem should it?

I found the Bluefin/Superchips website a bit odd. No 'add to basket' button for the Skoda, but looking at the same engine in the Audi/Seat, it has the 'add to basket' button available.

Do you think it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Audi one (seeing as its effectively the same engine) or should I contact to make sure its correct?

Hi guys, new to the forum.

I'm also looking to tune the vRS TDI. I've only covered 1200 miles in it so far. Getting the Bluefin shouldn't be a problem should it?

I found the Bluefin/Superchips website a bit odd. No 'add to basket' button for the Skoda, but looking at the same engine in the Audi/Seat, it has the 'add to basket' button available.

Do you think it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Audi one (seeing as its effectively the same engine) or should I contact to make sure its correct?

I don't see them as any different (in fact the map graph used for all brand instances, and billed on my invoice, is is referenced VAG170PD)

You could just phone them, wouldn't that be easiest?

Out of interest what is the likely 0-60 time with re-map?

Not that 0-60 is that important. 30-70mph is the important figure.

I would guess 0.5 to 1 sec reduction.

The only problem is I barely use first or second due to wheel spin. As you say, the in gear is where the action is.

Hi guys, new to the forum.

I'm also looking to tune the vRS TDI. I've only covered 1200 miles in it so far. Getting the Bluefin shouldn't be a problem should it?

I found the Bluefin/Superchips website a bit odd. No 'add to basket' button for the Skoda, but looking at the same engine in the Audi/Seat, it has the 'add to basket' button available.

Do you think it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Audi one (seeing as its effectively the same engine) or should I contact to make sure its correct?

WHy don't you try JKM Performance in Portsmouth, they are listed on here if you search for them! Talk to Kate and she can get one ordered and sent out for you. Keith is also very good technically and can talk you through anything that you want to know

0-100 kph with my stock vRS Tdi PD170 estate = 8.39 after a few test runs

0-100 kph with Bluefin added to the car = 8.20 at the first try; 7.55 as "top score" after a lot of testing (Hard to control the wheel spin on first gear)

But the best thing is the power for overtaking at higher speeds

Had mine remapped by Performance Torque in Wolverhampton and have to say that the car is so much better to drive.

Smoother around town, quieter, much more power and torque and no decrease in mpg.

I did some 30-50 in gear timings the other day and is now substantially quicker than a Civic Type R I owned.

Would totally recommend, and I have had no problems with the DPF, before or post remap.

Your principal is correct, but official recommendation for DPF regeneration is to use 1,800 - 2,000rpm in 4th or 5th (from Skoda Assistance/RAC man with his diagnostic laptop connected when my exhaust gas pressure sensor went on the blink).

As to tuning; a simple less costly option is to fit a K&N 57i induction kit and use V-Power with Millers Diesel Sport4 (double dose); resulting in 190bhp and 280ft lb (well nearly);-

Bahnstormer

Which model 57i kit did you use ? I cant find one listed for Octavia VRS PD 2008.

Which model 57i kit did you use ? I cant find one listed for Octavia VRS PD 2008.

I got the 57-0618, see here;- 57-0618 - K&N 57i Series Kits, 57i International Intake Kit

Here is a pic of it installed (complete with Heath Robinson's heat shields and cold air intake ducting);-

My vRS TDI is a 2007 PD engine, not the latest CR, but I doubt there is any difference in the air filter arrangement.

I hope this helps.

Guy