Is it straightforward to change the engine (& gearbox) assy. on a 110 bhp (AHF) Octavia I for a 90 bhp engine complete with ECU exchange. i know the key chip will need encoding - but are there any other items (Climate control / central locking etc.) hiding in the ECU?

The 110 unit and gearbox require expensive repairs and it easier to source a 90 bhp lump.

Thanks

There is only ECU coding and turbo differences, most all the rest is the same. What's up with the gearbox and engine and what are you doing with them?

Greg.

Injectors are different on the 110 bhp. Thats where the power difference comes from.

I found an ASV engine quite quickly when I did a repair a short while ago, pity I sold the head with injectors off the old 110 bhp engine a while back.

Good point - I was thinking of external differences. But the power isn't just injectors surely - as the GT17V (VNT15) can get up more boost at a lower level and the ecu and map & control side for the N75 valve is specific to the 110hp with the stronger low end pull?

Do you get access to many 2nd hand bits from swapped out engines Lummox?

Greg.

Yeah the map will be different. The AHF and ASV use identical turbos both VNT.

I do have a fair collection of bits, doing a fair bit of engine swap work at the moment.

The engine pulls very well but requires a lot of cranking to get going when warm. The box/clutch rattles a lot (not sure which one is faulty) and the noise quits when you press the clutch pedal in. I tried to lever the flywheel via the TDC inspection hole but saw no movement so I think the flywheel is OK?

I pulled the gearbox out over the weekend - Not an easy job! Found the DMF centre ball bearunit damaged which in trun forced the surface of the flywheel off at an angle....resulting in a very juddery clutch release action..and the rattle noise. Replaced teh DMF and all if quiet and smooth again. thanks for all the responses.

The engine pulls very well but requires a lot of cranking to get going when warm.

Cranking to get it started when warm? This might be a stuck anti-shudder valve. A quick clean will sort this - it gets clogged with oil from EGR.

Might sound like a dumb question ...but where is the anti-shudder valve located? Is it near the EGR valve closer to the cylinder head?

It's on the end of the intake manifold looking like a throttle, the rubber pipe by the drivers suspension turret top goes on to it. As said, clean it and observe it - when you turn off the engine the actuator (little plastic unit, CUT the pipe off - if you pull, the plastic nipple will likely snap) will snap it closed, it will stay closed about 3 seconds after the engine is off, then snap open again. If it stays in the 'shut' position, you have a sticky valve issue. Lube up the spindle & actuator moving parts with spray grease once it's all spotless clean.

This is actually, if the problem, a good time to pull the inlet manifold, fully clean it and the ports (vacuum them out after to prevent bits falling in the engine) and use a blanking gasket on the EGR pipe to disable the EGR & keep your inlet manifold clean in the future.

Greg.

Might sound like a dumb question ...but where is the anti-shudder valve located? Is it near the EGR valve closer to the cylinder head?