Warning! This is a mammoth post of all the information I have learned while trying to pair keys to my car...

I have been trying to get a new key for my 2005 Skoda Octavia MkII (1Z chassis) as I purchased it second hand from a lease company and it only came with 1 remote key. Hopefully some of the information here will help others and hopefully someone will be able to help me with my outstanding issue...

So far I have..

Got a new key blade cut.

Worked out the immobiliser security code for the car

Matched the remote control units

So far I have not been able to..

Re-configure the immobiliser

What I have done step by step...

Step 1: Hit ebay!I purchased 2 second hand 3 button VAG keys from ebay with the correct remote code - you can find this by inserting a large flat screwdriver into a slot in the middle of the key that becomes visible when you fold out the blade and pulling apprt the two parts of the key, the remote code is something like - HLO 1KO 959 753 G, it is important you get the key with the correct remote. These keys have key blades which must be replaced...

Step 2: Get blank key blade cut & fit

I purchased two blank key blades from ebay and had them cut from my existing key at Timpsons in Cambridge (the one on the exit of Lion Yard in St Andrews St) this was free of charge as it is non guaranteed, but I donated £10 to the charity tin. now swap the key blade by removing the pin that is visible in a little hole as you 'flip' the key blade - make sure you put the new blade in with the slot on the right side so it matches the position of the hole!

Step 3: Program the remote

I found lots of guides consisting of instructions such as insert the working key in the ignition and the new one in the door and press buttons etc, I didn't get any of these to work. In the end I have paired the remotes using VCDS (Ross-Tech: Home) I purchased the HEX-CAN USB hardware with a VCDS license and followed the instructions on ross tech website summarised here...

[select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.]

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "00"

[Read]

[save]

When the prompt asks if you are sure you want to save a value of 0 to Channel 00, click [Yes]

[select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.]

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).

[Read]

This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".

Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4(including any existing keys) in "New Value"

[Test]

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is correct.

[save]

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you're programming more than one fob press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the third fob for one second, etc. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.

The car gives a flash of the lights to signal learning of each remote.

Step 4 - configuring the immobilizer (PROBLEMS HERE!)

First things first, you cannot use second hand (already paired) immobiliser transponders. (You can work this out using VCDS by measuring the immobiliser block 023 and looking at the second reading).

Secondly in order to change the number of keys you need the security code. I don't have this so borrowed someones vag K+ commander interface and software (purchaed on ebay for about £30) this is very strange software but produced the 4 digit security key for me true to its word - if anyone is struggling with this part I can offer limited advice on what buttons I pressed.

now to the immobiliser programming...

I am using VCDS 805.1 with a HEX+CAN USB interface and I am following the guide from the Ross Tech Wiki (Immobilizer IV Key Matching - Ross-Tech Wiki)...

For simplicity I have put the results of my actions in blue below, & the instruction from the wiki in grey...

Determining IMMO-ID & VIN

[select]

[25 - Immobilizer]

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Select Block 081.

[Go!]

The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID..

[Done, Go Back]

[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

--> YES!, I get VIN and 14 digit string

Key Matching

Prerequisites:

• All keys are either new or were adapted to this car (IMMO-ID) before.
  YES new transponder (ID48) from Transponders
  
• You can match up to 8 keys.
  
• While adapting each key, make sure to place the other keys away from the ignition lock (reader coil). The passenger seat is an adequate place. YES
  
• Battery voltage at least 12.0 V. YES 12.58V
  

[select]

[25 - Immobilizer]

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Select Block 001.

[Go!]

The value in field 3 must be Yes. If value is No, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer.

You can check each key in this manner.

Everything apparently OK up to now I think

Select Block 003.

[Go!]

Make sure the shown lock times in field 1, 2 and 3 are 0 (each field represents a time in minutes).

• If the lock times are NOT 0:
  
  • Do NOT switch off the ignition!
    
  • Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the fields 1-3.
    

[Done, Go Back]

All zero

[security Access - 16]

There are 2 possibilities how to enter a PIN, choose the one that applies for you.

• 4-digit PIN
  
  • Enter zero followed by the 4-digit PIN. For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.
    

  [*]7-digit PIN

  • [use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
    
  • Enter the 7-digit PIN, Date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated the code.
    
  • [OK]
    
  • VAG-COM will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".
    

[Do it!]

Yes 4 digit security code accepted

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter 001 in "Channel Number".

[Read]

The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.

Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys.

Entered value '2' and save

The old keys are automatically beeing cleared.

[save]

Completed, when I click save the immobiliser light comes on for a couple of seconds and then goes out

[Done, Go Back]

[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

• Repeat the following steps until all keys have been matched:
  
  • Switch ignition off and remove key.
    
  • Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again.
    
  • The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out Switch ignition off and remove key.
    

Note: The above steps after saving the adaptation, should not exceed 60 seconds!

Now I insert the new key, the immobiliser light stays on for about 2 seconds then starts flashing. If I remove the new key and put the old key in the ignition, the immobiliser light flashes and immobiliser (25) reads an error code 'Incorrect key matching 000___'. If I insert the 'new' key the immobiliser light flashes and the immobiliser (25) reads an error code 'key, implausible signal 008'. The only way to clear this is to go back to adaption, save a value of 1 and learn the old remote, the immobiliser light does not flash when I insert the old key and the error codes do not re-occur.

My guess is that the immobiliser transponder is somehow incompatible, I have looked inside my old (working) key and it looks the same (glass grain of rice type) but I know there are at least 2 variants of this design, I was told ID48 is what I need but if anyone knows differently could you suggest where I could get a compatible one?

For any vag-com experts, would there be any mileage in reading and saving to block 00 for the immobiliser i.e. resetting the immobiliser in a similar way to the comfort system which I needed to to do when setting up the remotes? or would this be a bad idea for some reason?

Edited 12 September, 200817 yr by WardyWales

Your problem is with the ebay keyfob, if the keyfob had been used in another car before this one then its impossible to program to the car because the key is locked to the original immo and cant be recoded. There has been a lot of discussion about this on here, and unless you can guarantee the the fob is new then the chances of getting it to work are virtually zero.

edit.

See this thread.

http://briskoda.net/octavia-ii/replacement-key-only-buy-new-unused-one/101414/

I have read through that thread before I started working on it and thought I had got around that problem by putting a new transponder in the key fob.

new transponder (ID48) from Transponders

I am fairly sure this is the right transponder, it comes up with a no in the "Key status transponder lock" in VCDS so isn't locked (the original used transponder that I removed came up with a YES in this box so is useless).

I missed the reading of group 7 shown in the screenshot of that post however. I was told that the new transponder it is a Skoda one but will check the status of group 7 tonight just to make sure.

There are a couple of frequencies for the transpnders. Have you got the right one?

I don't know how to tell if its the right transponder except from the feedback from VCDS which seems to be correct.

The chap at auto key transponders that I talked to said they used ID13 transponders with fixed codes in older cars, and then moved to ID48 for later models (I guess these are the product codes from that company but don't know another way of referring to them!), I realised that the second hand keys would have locked transponders and he said that the correct ones are ID48 for the OctyII, therefore I purchased 3 ID48's with the hope that they would be the right ones (only £3 each too!), since the error code is implausible signal I am guessing that they are not - though everything on the VCDS screen readout for the key seems to be right, I might get an ID13 to test and see if that works but I was hoping someone might be able to tell me if resetting the immobiliser controller by saving into block 00 would be advisable before I try and get different transponders, or if this is not a good idea for some reason. I will give Ross-Tech an email on Monday and ask their advice too I think.

A most interesting thread (to me). I've been wanting to find a way but have not the courage to go as far as you.

I was fascinated to find that the transponders are available and so cheap too.

Do report back on any successes or failures.

I have been told today by someone who has been doing something similar on a passat that you have to save zero to the immobiliser key count before saving the number of keys you want to re-code - thereby resetting it to some exent as it were, so I will give that a go tonight.

This is the VCDS output from my key that works (the original or 'old' key)

& This is the VCDS output from my key with the new transponder

If you put a key with a second hand transponder, the output is the same except that the Key status (Transponder Lock) is YES

As a reminder whenever I instert a key that isn't coded to my immboiliser either as part of the learning procedure or otherwise and whatever the transponder lock status an error code of "Key - 008 Implausible signal - intermittent" is generated, though I know this is a general message and not necassarily indicative of no signal being received. My best guess is still that its the wrong transponder but I havent found any that I think are a better guess yet!

I will update as and when I find out anything more.

P.S. I have now had the blade for my dad's 2003 Superb cut which I think is going to be immo3 instead of immo4 so will have a stab at that one over the weekend and report back on how that goes too!

Edited 15 September, 200817 yr by WardyWales

Success! I am now in possession of a completely working second key for my OctaviaII!

The key so to speak was indeed that I had the incorrect transponder, I have eventually found the right one here Advanced Keys Shop and it is product AKK237.

The procedure I followed was the same as that listed above but now when I insert the second key it actually works and the immobiliser light goes out after a couple of seconds.

I have also matched a key for the Superb last weekend, the problem with that car was getting the security code which I achieved in the end using vag-tacho and my vag-com cable. For the superb I used the immobilisers that I originally bought for the Octavia from Transponders, (ID48), so I actually programmed 6 transponders for this car (as I had them lying around anyway).

So in the end using 3 different sets of cables, two keys off e-bay and a couple of new transponders I have 2 working keys for my Octy. I am now going to contact advanced-keys and ask if they have just the immobilisers outside of the key for a lower price.

god the price is so much cheaper to the dealer

My dealer point blank refused to provide the blank key as a part if he didn't code it and wanted £165 for the key, £35 for cutting, and £65 programming, total £265 for a key! Hence this long and finally fruitful road of getting it sorted out myself. I have asked for a price for 10 of the transponders for the OctyII (and other mkV golf based cars) as I have a few people who want to learn from my sucesses and get extra keys cut and the transponders will hopefully be cheaper than the whole keys if they can get them (apparently Megamos crypto II are more difficult to source than Megamos crypto I). This will enable us to buy second hand keys from ebay very cheaply, replace the transponders and have the blades cut and be done.

where did you go to get it cut? i guess thats the only bit you cannot do yourself.

Probably any smith can do it. I cut another key blade for a Renault car over here for a little over 1 Euro. I imagine a VAG key costing in the 5-7E ball park, but not a lot more.

looks like once again brisky members are proving we wont be ripped off by dealer prices, its not what ya know its who ya know

This is quality knowledge shared here, as up to reading this I had no clue as to how to use a 2nd hand key again on a different car.

guess my skills of starting a car with a screwdriver wont be needed anymore

You'll be needing a paired immobilizer with that screwdriver anyway. Or enough talent to circumvent one.

15 years ago I remember I did to open my dad's car with the small letterbox's lock key, as it was an approximate match.

Excellent news

In the remote key how does one actually get to the transponder?

Regarding key cutting I got mine cut from a guy on eBay.

You send a good photo of the blade and he will supply and cut the blade for £7. It worked fine too.

Details below. Should ithe link not work then he is ddkeyprogrammers

VW Audi Seat Skoda Flip key blade CUT TO YOUR CAR FREE on eBay, also, Volkswagen, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 27-Sep-08 22:10:36 BST)

The immo is a glassy bit the size and shape of a grain of rice located on the front of the key, towards the blade. It's opposite the folding blade hinge, parallel to it.

It's sometimes in a shade of green, hard to miss, as there's nothing similar there.

You can sort of make out the immo chip in this pic: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/misc/key1.jpg

Look for the little rice bead on the left side of the piece in the middle.

In the remote key how does one actually get to the transponder?

1. pull the two halves apart (sometimes you can just pull them apart, but I always seem to need to put a blunt screwdriver into the gap on the side that has the skoda badge). So you now have a remote half and a key blade half (this half has the transponder in it)

2. lever off the badge (it will probably get thoroughly shagged in the process, but replacements are usually pretty cheap from ebay, and you can even get a pretty "vRS" one if you are bored with the standard Skoda one)

3. Undo the small screw that was under the badge

4. Pull the two sections apart (watch out for the spring loading of the key blade).

5. The transponder (aka immobiliser chip or RFID) is the glass capsule (like a long, skinny grain of rice) glued in to the end near the hinge for the key blade. I've levered some out without breaking them, but I imagine it would be pretty easy to crack the glass capsule.

I now have a number of them (from various sources), but none seem to work on my 2008 Octy (I think they have had at least 3 differerent versions over the years). The latest ones seem to need to be pre-programmed in to both the make and model of the particular VAG vehicle you want to use them on, and so far I haven't found anyone that can supply the ones I need (most places don't even bother to answer my emails :().

where did you go to get it cut? i guess thats the only bit you cannot do yourself.

Step 2: Get blank key blade cut & fit

I purchased two blank key blades from ebay and had them cut from my existing key at Timpsons in Cambridge (the one on the exit of Lion Yard in St Andrews St) this was free of charge as it is non guaranteed, but I donated £10 to the charity tin.

I tried a couple of locksmiths in Cambridge before Timpsons who could not do it, one of them being another Timpsons, so I guess it depends on the equipment they have. I was not too keen on having it done by photo from ebay for some reason...

I now have a number of them (from various sources), but none seem to work on my 2008 Octy (I think they have had at least 3 different versions over the years). The latest ones seem to need to be pre-programmed in to both the make and model of the particular VAG vehicle you want to use them on

I have quite a few too, all useless on the OctyII (as the majority available are either second hand i.e. completely useless, or actually Megamos 1, also completely useless on an OctyII as it needs Megamos 2!). I purchased a working one from advanced keys, unfortunately the immobiliser is currently not available as a single item so you have to buy the whole lower part of the key Advanced Keys Shop part number AKK237 which is about £30. I will keep this updated if I get my hands on any plain immobilisers!

Hi if you are still having problems i can program the key to you car no problem

Hi if you are still having problems i can program the key to you car no problem

It looks from the posts above that the problem in the end was an incorrect transponder, so I would imagine that you'd have the same problems coding it as the original poster did.

Either way he appears to have sorted it, some 4 months ago

So, I'm curious, given what you now know, and excluding the cost of the VCDS software and the CAN-BUS interfaces, approximately how much would you need to spend to purchase a key, a blank blade, get it cut and buy the transponder?

I never did obtain a non-dealer transponder that would work for my 2008 build Octy II. After several attempts with key blade halves, ID48 Megamos crypto transponders that also couldn't be coded, I even bought an Octy II lock set that came with new keys (with remotes), and those transponders didn't work either.(and yes, they were virgin, unused, unprogrammed keys) :(

I finally caved in and purchased a key blade "half" from my dealer for $AU 185, and that coded fine. I used my cheap ebay remote "half" and saved some $$$.

The noticeable differences between the working transponders and the non-working one from the lock set (according to what I was told the the dealer coding tool displayed) were : working transponder first (non-working transponder in brackets second)

Group I (Immo I)

Block 1 (Engine Start permitted) YES (NO)

Group II (Immo II)

Block 1 (Variable Code Authorised) YES (NO)

Block 2 (Key Status (Transponder Lock) YES (NO)

Block 3 (Fixed Code authorised) YES (NO)

MFD msg (after insertion of key into ign as final step of coding)

"Immobilizer adjustment active" ("Immobilizer adjustment failure")

If anyone has been able to source "non-dealer" transponders that will definitely work for 2008 build Octy IIs that would be great news, as the rest of the components are readily available at prices much cheaper than the dealers, but I've never heard of anyone able to supply the correct transponders by themselves.