I just saw that this thread had been resurrected after some time so I thought I'd give an update. I had the temperature sender changed at an independent VW specialist (and rather coincidently on the next trip the water pump broke, leading to an overheated engine and a tow - I wonder if an air lock could have done this). The end result is that I had to have a major/cambelt service done at which point the coolant was refreshed of course and I took the opportunity to have a new thermostat fitted. The independent VW peeps used a different oil to what it had had before I think, it was labelled as being for VW diesel and petrol engines, I think it was possibly 5w40. This has made the tickover quieter, less emulsion on the filler cap and the fluttering tickover is better behaved (but by no means cured). I did see a you tube clip of someone having this problem with the AUB engine (unfortunately this clip has since been removed), in the comments underneath it would appear that replacement of the front lambda sensor had solved the problem. What I do tend to do now mind you is try to rev it past 5000 rpm once or twice per journey to try and keep the breather system clear and this I believe helps.

has the car had a cambelt change? these symptoms are very similar to what you get when the timing is out a bit (very easy to get wrong on the belt change) and easy enough to check yourself with a little patience too,

seen a few now with the cams out of sync by 1 tooth and no engine damage. sometimes causes a slight rattlle around 3500rpms or so too

Exactly the same problem with my 1.4 16v comfort. I took it to Skoda and they diagnosed a faulty front lambda probe. Haven't had it done yet though. Since this I have found yellow gunk in the filler cap. Intermittent tick over problem still persists. Now my fuel gauge is not going dwn and the computer is given a generous yet inaccurate reading (225miles) yet with only half a tank on the dial, both, I feel are probably incorrect.

If its any concilation. I think the garage I took it to before, has put in an incorrect fuel filter or fitted it wrong. I, taking it for a full service to a garage I know I can trust next week. I feel like crying

Morning all.

I'm new on here and also new to Fabias so please take this into account when answering :-)

Sorry to use this old thread, but it seems silly starting a new one when the issue I'm having seems to be very similar...

How I can about the car is a long story so I will summarise it for the benefit of fault diagnosis

The car is a 2000 1.4 16v comfort with only 19000 on the clock. Prior to me getting it, it had not been properly run for 7 years and totally unused for the last 5. I got it as a non-runner as a first car for my daughter. I know it was a gamble but given its a VW engine thought it was worth a punt.

I put a new battery on after a little fault finding (fuel pump corroded) get her running a dream. I had the cam belt and water pump changed and she passed the mot without and issues.

1 week later, she failed to start. I found the after market fuel pump I had put on had failed. This was replaced on warranty and all was well again. What I didn't know it the 2nd replacement pump sender gauge was wired backwards and as such, my daughter run out of petrol and the engine management light came on.

It is at this point the problems have started.....

The issue - cold starting is fantastic and idle is great. Once up to temp however, the engine beings to hunt on idle and acceleration of very very poor and feels like a shortage of fuel. Making progress whilst driving (not having to stand at traffic lights or junctions for too long) the problems don't present, it's only after a period of idle.

I've no fault codes yet as I don't have the equipment to view although I've bought a fault reader on eBay over the weekend which such come tomorrow.

I've read that the coolent temp sensor can cause all sorts of issues so I have replaced is part with no change at all.

A 3rd replacement pump is on order (will arrive tomorrow) and is an original part so hopefully the gauge will be right.

I've read about faults with the Lamdbe probe. What is that and could it cause the problems described?

Could the fact the fuel gauge is showing empty and the fuel light is on (even though the tank is full) cause the problems? If so, why only when up to temp?

Will resetting the faults codes sort it ( it's shown the fault since running out of fuel although the idle problem only occurred later)

I changed the oil and air filter about 150 miles ago and don't notice any emulsion. I've checked the filler cap since and it's clean. I've looked at the butterfly valve and the edges look clean. Could a vacuum problem be to blame?

I've read on here about a re-boot (disconnect the battery for 45mins then idle to 30mins) in order to reset the engine. Will doing this help?

Loads of questions sorry, she's a great little car that I'm sure will be great for my 2 daughters for a good few year, but only if I can over come these problems.

That's in advance :-)

Mal

Replace the coil pack, HT leads and spark plugs if you haven't done so. These engines eat plugs and leads and the coil pack can give trouble once its hot, especially if its the original. Buy a decent coil pack, I bought a Delphi part from ECP which was good but have had problems with cheaper ebay coil packs.

Your a star sepulcrave. I'll give it a go and report back :-)

& run it on shell nitro & use a decent engine oil. I would also replace the oil separator at the back of the engine, cheap black plastic box which filters the air between the crankcase & rest of engine, but gets gummed up. If its not been used in 5yrs.............its a lot of work, also redo brake fluid

 

basically all fluids, also timing belts as they age.

 

& yes the reboot as per my thread will help. You have a lot of work to make sure it is a reliable runner in all weather! I just sold mine after 14yrs of ownership & it ran like a dream, but I treated it with the best oils & petrol, & drove it properly......................red line it when hot as they need it do these engines!

Thanks fabdavrav

I don't mind doing the work it's just knowing what work need to be done and I f I'm honest, I'm enjoying getting my hands dirty again!

Cam belt and water pump done. Fluids changed (not brake fluid yet) oil used was astrology edge fully synthetic with man filters.

HT leads ordered and will be in tomorrow, going to try them before I do the coil (trying to keep the spend down for now). Will ask about the oil separator tomorrow when I pick the fuel pump and HT leads up. I've learnt my lesson with pattern parts so it ohm only now.

Castrol not astrology

Also just remembered that because the car had not been used in 5yrs any fuel in tank would have formed gundge & this gets into the fuel filter & fuel pump., however fuel in lines between the filter & engine will get into everything else. If it's too late to flush the system out, get another filter & get some additives to pour into tank & clean out, cataclean, or similar. Then run engine on full tank until empty, fill again & run right down, do several times then change filter again! Haynes do a manual for the Fabai.

 

I always got OEM from the dealers, unless I was certain the part I was getting was a way better design than the OEM

 

Oil separator diagram here:-

 

http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/fabia-fab-eu-2000-10305-cylinder-block-with-pistons-oil-sump/

 

part number

19 036103464G oil separator

Sound like you're missing you're old girl :-)

Tank flushed and now on 2nd full tank with additive. Fuel filter changed and will do again in a couple of tank fulls time. I thought the fuel filter may have been the cause of the problem.

Got the Haynes manual with the car so that was a bonus :-)

Predictive text on this tablet is driving me mad ! It put ohm instead or OEM but you knew what I meant.

Thanks for the diagram of the oil separator. That will be a great help

She runs really well until she up to temp then the idle is awful and if you sit at lights she just doesn't want to pull away. If you turn her off when waiting at lights it just doesn't happen. Don't want to keep doing that though. I'll get there though.... Especially with your help :-)

Sound like you're missing you're old girl :-)

. I'll get there though.... Especially with your help :-)

 

Thanks!, we are here to help!

 

I bought her new in Jan/Feb. 2001 & sold her this Jan, so 14yrs, longest I think anyone has owned one from new! & yes I do miss her, here is what she looked like when I sold her:-

 

Update

New HT leads and fuel pump fitted. The fuel gauge is now correct and working the right way! Just been on a 40 mile run bit of urban, rural and m-way driving and she has not missed a beat. All that is needed now is a reset of the engine management light (fault code reader didn't arrive :-( ) and perhaps a re-boot to be sure and then keep a close eye on her for any further issues.

Thanks for all your help.....

Update 2

DTC fault code 16555 was the only code showing and as there had been fuel related issues I'm please to report she is running smooth as anything :-)

The next thing to look at is the slight noise from the n/s/f when pulling off in 1st gear. I've read it may the the dogbone bush so will look at that next week.

I'm a happy fabia owner tonight :-)

Update 2

DTC fault code 16555 was the only code showing and as there had been fuel related issues I'm please to report she is running smooth as anything :-)

The next thing to look at is the slight noise from the n/s/f when pulling off in 1st gear. I've read it may the the dogbone bush so will look at that next week.

I'm a happy fabia owner tonight :-)

 

Check that the disc dust guard isn't slightly bent and rubbing against the disc.

Wil

Check that the disc dust guard isn't slightly bent and rubbing against the disc.

Will do :-)