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Advice on Replacing CV Boots Please.

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I'm not a fan of the split CV boot kit either as I've done a few of these in the past as well and they never last. The key to it is making sure the two faces are clean and grease-free, otherwise the superglue never sets properly and it soon comes undone. But even then, I'd rather go with a complete boot - will last much longer if fitted properly.

Though that's unlikely to be a main dealer price, yes? I would figure that would be just the labour only from a dealer?

Local Indy very quick and cheap but bloody good at the job, they repair all the cars used at knock-hill race circuit:thumbup:

  • 15 years later...

Just a thought on an old thread for all you budding mechanics.

 

I'm in the process of replacing the outer cv joints on 2008 Octy 1.9Tdi.  I know the hub bolt can be used to extract the joint if a suitable spacer is put into the half shaft, but I was thinking about reassembly.

 

I don't like the idea of walloping the joint to locate it on the shaft clip (I've had one fail as it didn't locate correctly), so was thinking of how to press it into position in situ.  If a  piece of threaded bar (M16x1.5 fine) was screwed into the shaft, with a the portion of the bar that goes through the cv joint stripped of its thread, and a suitable nut and washer set up on the outside of the joint, it could be pressed into place without the need for hammering.

 

What do you reckon, any other ideas?

Rubber mallet / deadblow hammer = job done 😉

5 minutes ago, Me-109 said:

Rubber mallet / deadblow hammer = job done 😉

Didn't work for me - unless the spring clip was faulty in some way.  I even tried my hardest to pull the joint back off, and it wouldn't budge.  Have no real explanation for the shaft separating from the joint.  Maybe the spring got damaged as I struck the end to the joint to locate it??

Wow, this is an old thead to come back to!

 

No point making work you don't have to - I normally use a stretch boot and a cone or spreader to pull it over the CV end. The thermoplastic boots love to find a way to pull themselves off. 

 

If it's been split a long time, blast the grease out with brake cleaner, let it dry and put the new grease in with a syringe. If it's not bad, just add a bit extra. 

On 09/12/2024 at 20:46, beezera10 said:

If a  piece of threaded bar (M16x1.5 fine) was screwed into the shaft

 

Good luck with finding that! 😁

 

A good example of "easier said than done"!

I think the fix for this I've seen is to use a tie-wrap around the spring clip to compress it first. As you knock the joint on it moves that cable tie out of the way along the splines. Snip it off before you get the joint fully seated.

Not tried it myself, but may work. They don't really sit that proud of the splines.

2 hours ago, Me-109 said:

I think the fix for this I've seen is to use a tie-wrap around the spring clip to compress it first. As you knock the joint on it moves that cable tie out of the way along the splines. Snip it off before you get the joint fully seated.

Not tried it myself, but may work. They don't really sit that proud of the splines.

Just so, I mentioned the same in another thread after talking to a mechanic about avoiding walloping the end of the shaft.

 

Not too keen of the stretch boots, they actually seem harder work than whipping the CV joint off (although properly locating the joint back on is critical!!!)

 

Maybe the relocating tool would be more hassle than it's worth on reflection.

 

Cheers fellas.

56 minutes ago, beezera10 said:

Just so, I mentioned the same in another thread after talking to a mechanic about avoiding walloping the end of the shaft.

 

I didn't understand what you were saying in that posting but I do now :thumbup:

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