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Advice on Replacing CV Boots Please.

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I have spotted that both of my CV boots need replacing as they have split. Car is a 1.9 tdi with dsg 'box.

Any advice please on the best way to do the job?

What needs to be taken off? The off side looks like I could unbolt the drive shaft from the gearbox end and drop the shaft down to enable the old boot to come off and the new boot to go on. Looks like I can't do this with the near side as there is not room to drop the shaft.

Also I understand that I may need to use replacement bolts and not re use the originals?

Any advice much appreciated, thanks. :thumbup:

I've not done this on a Skoda, but on Ford, Peugeot, VW & Fiat, which I have done in the past it's usually : Remove the drive shaft nut at the hub, disconnect the track rod end & anti roll bar, drop the lower arm so that the drive shaft/CV unit can be withdrawn out the back of the hub.

You will probably need a ball joint splitter, torque wrench to re torque the drive shaft nut (new nut would be advisable) etc..

It's not that difficult if you have the right tools and you know what to torque the nuts & bolts up to.

I'm sure someone with the precise info will post a reply.

  • Author

Thanks, I was looking at it from the wrong end! I have all the tools, just need the torques then............................anyone?..................................Please!

Top tip.

The CV is very tight to get off the driveshaft. The spring clips holds it on too tight to knock off with a hammer. Take the old 27mm driveshaft bolt and cut the washer off it. Now screw the bolt back into the joint. As it goes in further it hits end end of the driveshaft and pulls the joint off.

  • Author

Thanks for that :thumbup:

Do the boots come as a "kit" with the replacement driveshaft bolt, etc. or do I need to but the individual parts?

(Still hoping someone can tell me the torques I need)

Thanks for that :thumbup:

Do the boots come as a "kit" with the replacement driveshaft bolt, etc. or do I need to but the individual parts?

(Still hoping someone can tell me the torques I need)

More details please - ?estate, ?BHP, ? year, ?4x4 etc then I can look it up for you in my workshop manual.

The kit comes with everything bar the driveshaft bolt usually.

  • Author
More details please - ?estate, ?BHP, ? year, ?4x4 etc then I can look it up for you in my workshop manual.

2006, Hatch, 1.9 tdi, DSG, 105 BHP, 2wd.

Thanks :thumbup:

2006, Hatch, 1.9 tdi, DSG, 105 BHP, 2wd.

Thanks :thumbup:

I wonder why these have failed so early in life?

Both mine went this year (06 2.0 tdi) but done under 3 year warranty. As your's is also 06, might be worth trying dealer

There appears to be several drive shaft/CV types & bolt sizes with different torques.

Check out the info that I have cut and pasted from my workshop manual.

Hope it helps.

Im guessing this correct as there are several engine codes that correspond with those engine specs.

If you could look in your maintenance book and post your engine and transmission codes - then I'll double check.

Edited by Jules59
update

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author
I wonder why these have failed so early in life?
Both mine went this year (06 2.0 tdi) but done under 3 year warranty. As your's is also 06, might be worth trying dealer

The car has 78,000 miles on it and is out of warranty.

If you could look in your maintenance book and post your engine and transmission codes - then I'll double check.

Thanks Jules, sorry for the delay not sure which codes you need so here are the lot from the front page of my service book.

1Z336C OCT LIM ELE HXU 9102 TA 77KW BKC

Hope this means something to you!

Thanks again.

Thanks

Codes are :

1Z3 body style

HXU DSG gear box

BKC engine code.

This combination flags up 5 different drive shaft variants. The previous 3 mentioned above plus AAR2600i and AAR3300i both use "spider" joints.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Well, I tried doing the boots myself but ended up giving up and taking the car to my dealer!

This is the first time that I have ever had to do this in 27 years of doing DIY work on cars. I have built Hillclimb cars, changed clutches timing belts and cylinder heads, engines and gearboxes and have also done loads of work on motorbikes as well and have never been "beaten" before. What beat me? - the multitude of special tools needed I couldn't even fit the clips that hold the boots in place 'cos even they need a special tool. I commented on this to my dealer and he told me that they have over £35,000 worth of special Skoda tools and even that isn't the full set as they just buy in the tools when certain jobs come in!

I will henceforth be sticking to oil and brake pad changes on my Octy and will confine my DIY to my bikes and my TVR!!

Thanks for the help.

P.S Just out of interest my dealer insisted that the driveshaft bolts did not need to be replaced on my car, I queried it and he told me that if the bolt needs to be replaced it would either come as part of the boot "kit" or it would be flagged up on the parts computer as a parted needed in conjunction with the boot kit.

Things aint like they used to be !

I also had the boot replaced this year 0n our 55 plate 2.o dsg Elegance at 30000 miles.Just got in by 2 weeks for warranty.

My '06' 1.9TDi 4x4 in the garage today to fix the same problem.

Sounds like a problem part, let's hope the replacements are longer lasting!

All day job as apparently 4x4 is more complicated, so three cheers for the warranty:)

Garage just phones - Maybe tomorrow or Monday before I get the car back now as mechanic is having problems putting everything back together due to lack of play on drivers side.

Anyone else have boots replace on 4x4 ?

No probs though as they were good enough to provide a courtesy car :)

Edited by MAPGO
Update

Had mine done a few months ago with the 2nd Variable service (about 37k), but I put it down to impact damage from the ridiculous tracks I drive down at work. Its beginning to sound like it might be a known problem now...

  • 3 months later...
Top tip.

The CV is very tight to get off the driveshaft. The spring clips holds it on too tight to knock off with a hammer. Take the old 27mm driveshaft bolt and cut the washer off it. Now screw the bolt back into the joint. As it goes in further it hits end end of the driveshaft and pulls the joint off.

Hello Lummox,

Butting in with humble apologies, but, do you know the size of the splined bolts on the inner constant velocity joint please, ?? on the Fabia VRS 2005.

I read somewhere on this site that M14 spline bolts were used, but it looks massive compared to the bolts it's supposed to fit, I'd say off hand M10 would be closer??

Many thanks for pointing me in right direction.

Ian. 19/04/2009:confused::)

Getting my off side CV joint replaced tomorrow at last, I was informed it was knackered last July and it even passed a taxi test last month ,

I ask the mechanic to check what one was gone and he said it would not matter as they can be fitted either side

Well, I tried doing the boots myself but ended up giving up and taking the car to my dealer!

..... he told me that they have over £35,000 worth of special Skoda tools and even that isn't the full set as they just buy in the tools when certain jobs come in!

Out of interest what was the charge from your dealer for doing this work? It might be useful for some of us to benchmark against if this is a common problem.

Thanks

Nic....

Just back from getting the CV joint changed, £96 all in

I've been using the "split" universal boots for a good few years now.

For those of you not in the know, it is a normal drive-shaft boot with a carefully cut split down it's full length. After cutting the old boot off with a stanley knife, and cleaning off the resultant grease, you just wrap the new boot around the drive shaft, squeeze in some new grease, and then carefully superglue the two sides together, and secure at either end with the new ties or cable ties :thumbup::thumbup:.

It all comes a a complete kit from the motor factors, with boot, ties, knife, glue, gloves, and instructions, costs about £20, and saves all the hassle of having to strip the brakes/hub etc, and only takes around 20 minutes to "boot" :rofl::rofl:.

Just back from getting the CV joint changed, £96 all in

Though that's unlikely to be a main dealer price, yes? I would figure that would be just the labour only from a dealer?

I've been using the "split" universal boots for a good few years now.

For those of you not in the know, it is a normal drive-shaft boot with a carefully cut split down it's full length. After cutting the old boot off with a stanley knife, and cleaning off the resultant grease, you just wrap the new boot around the drive shaft, squeeze in some new grease, and then carefully superglue the two sides together, and secure at either end with the new ties or cable ties :thumbup::thumbup:.

It all comes a a complete kit from the motor factors, with boot, ties, knife, glue, gloves, and instructions, costs about £20, and saves all the hassle of having to strip the brakes/hub etc, and only takes around 20 minutes to "boot" :rofl::rofl:.

I'm sorry but I would never, ever, ever recommend this fix unless it was a 'get_me_home_like_a_spacesaver_spare_wheel' kinda repair. I have changed too many boots on my old Golfs to know that even using a cheap universal boot from a motor factors has proved to be false economy in the long run. The pattern parts are rubber and the grease makes them perish. The genuine VAG ones I used to use were more of a plastic compound and far more durable. Yes, they cost more but saved me doing the job again in 18 months time. It was a job I never liked doing, but running a modified engine and lowered suspension used to hammer the CV joints to death...

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