looked on Autodata and the image it shows doesnt show any kind of fuel pump ?

is the image wrong ?

The ASZ engine does not use the cambelt to drive the fuel pump. On that engine it's driven directly by the camshaft on the right hand side of the engine, looking from the front of the car.

aha, thats why then lol, cheers for the info

is their anything special i need to know about doing a cambelt on one of these ?

is their anything special i need to know about doing a cambelt on one of these ?

It's all here ..

http://briskoda.net/technical-guides/fabia-vrs-timing-belt-change-diy/104046/

Have fun !

special tools are required to lock the engine and detension the belt tensioner

my advice is , if your not sure what you're doing , don't bother trying , it always ends in tears if you **** it up

aha, thats why then lol, cheers for the info

is their anything special i need to know about doing a cambelt on one of these ?

You really need the minimum of a Haynes manual to make sure you lock the cam sprocket correctly. I would recommend doing the water pump (preferably one with a metal impeller from Quintin Hazel) tensioner and idler. It's a fairly involved job, as you need to take off the drivers wheelarch liner, the engine mounting from that side, to drop the engine enough to get access to the crank pulley nut. The engine mount needs new bolts on refitting, as they are stretch bolts.

No hidden dangers if you have done cambelts before, but a dealer job if your not 100% sure.

Not a dealer only job, I could think of some other places that would be cheaper

A picture of one anyhow..

That is in a Superb though.

thanks again for all the replies, this forum is superb !

i work at a Renault dealers (in parts) so i was gonna get the lads in our workshop to do it for me, just wondering if their was anything strange/important they should know before starting

thanks for the tip about the engine mount bolts, good to know !

what about bleeding the cooling system after refilling ???

Edited 3 December, 200817 yr by BRUN

Just run it with the cap off for a while and it will bleed out.

There arnt any bleed nipples on the coolant pipes etc.

Not really a bad job to do.

Engine mount can sometimes be a pain to get out, but it can be worked around.