The temperature gauge of my 2004 Octy1 1.8T vrs suddenly started going beyond the 90 degree mark. I did not let it overheat and shut down.

I found that if I drive carefully, it behaves normally. If I give it some stick, the needle starts rising. The fans are working and the radiator is hot. The first time it happened, I noticed the coolant level was low. I topped it up in the office basement car park with distilled water but the phenomenon still happens. I must add that when the cooling fan failure saga happened a few months ago, I used distilled water so might be the coolant is heavily diluted.

My question is

Is the water pump shot or do I merely need to completely flush and fill in proper coolant? As I mentioned, the radiator is getting warm so water is circulating. The car has only done 30000km. BTW - am writing from India so no freezing considerations

Being one of the last Vrs models , I was under the impression that the water pump has a full metal impellor.

Looking forward to your inputs

Skoda never used the metal impellor water pump to my knowledge. Has it ever been changed? I would put money on it being the pump though due to the description you have given. Might as well have the belt and coolant changed whilst it's in too.

Sounds like the pump to me. Diluted coolant won't affect things short term but you should get it checked/replaced asap.

The coolant additive used also affects the boiling point and is VERY important for corrosion prevention. You should be using VAG G12/G12+/G12++ or if you can't easily get that, then you may be able to get Pentosin Pink. You need a boil protection of at least 130degC. On some cars in hot climates, it pays to have a HIGHER concentration of coolant additive. In the UK we just think of it as antifreeze so we think of freeze prevention rather than boil prevention.

If it is very hot where you are, you may be boiling off the coolant. Is the pressure cap on the coolant expansion tank hissing all the time?

It would certainly be worth changing the pressure cap.

It may be the pump - even at 30k. To test the pump, take the return off the expansion tank and run the engine up to about 2000RPM. You should get a steady stream out of the pipe.

Booked it in for tomm. I drove it for 3 miles. If I stick to 3000 rev, it behaves okay. anything above, the temp rises but falls if I ease off. All pipes are warm/ hot so water seems to be circulating.

Sounds like it could be the head gasket to me :(

HI

You will find that it will be the water pump

Part of the impella falls off

Then you will find that as you drive at a steady pace , then the water pump impella that is left , can cope with it

But if you go that bit faster , the impella that is left cannot circulate the water quickly enough to keep it cool

VAG have to my knowledge , never done a metal impella`d water pump

Sorry , it is the water pump

I would put my last £5 note on it

Mark

Yep, it was the pump - till I checked the car in, I used it for a 3 mile drive then took the office shuttle to avoid risking any damage. On the 10 mile drive to the garage, the needle climbed rapidly. Preserved things by keeping around 1500 rpm and switching off at the lights. 2 Miles from the garage as I was climbing a bridge, the needle moved to the extreme so I stopped for 10 min and finally got there.

The garage felt it was the pump but went through everything else first. When they got the pump out - the answer was clear as in the pic!

Thanks all for your help on this

I've heard of this many times, never understand why Manufacturers use plastic but hey makes more money on spares I guess.... I always have the pump changed on cam belt changes ... always better than having the cam belt changed then having it off again to do the pump.