Bear with me as this may get a bit long winded to explain......

Basically, I want to use replace the switch blank that lurks beside the ASR and fuel filler cap with a sprung switch (like the fuel flap release) to act as a starting button. After having issues starting the car in coldest of winter, and replacing both the battery and the starter, I've found a wee bit of play in the ignition barrel which explains the cause, and really do not want to go down that (from what I understand quite expensive) route.

So, my thinking is by transferring the starting duties to a switch, this should help the barrel last a lot longer.

And it's also a little bit of extra security if the switch looks oem.

Now, from what I understand, the only factory switch that is used to fill in the blank is for heated seats. If I buy another complete fuel cap filler switch, is there another facing I can use so I don't have two switches the same? Or will the seat heater facing with the dials transfer onto the sprung switch? Suppose the easy way is to fork out and buy both.....

I think I've seen two fuel filler switches in somebody's car used perhaps as a similar thing?

Any and all advice gratefully received.

TIA

Steve

Could be the ignition switch not the barrel, sounds an awfully long way to work around a fault.

Plus you would have to run a relay.

iirc taxi's have a button there to turn the taxi light on and off..... guess it was an option.

sounds like a cool idea anyway...

Thanks for the comments so far.

The issue is that sometimes the car won't start, and the only way for it to do so is to push the key up towards the stalks, and the silver key barrel moves about 1 - 2mm in the black housing when doing so.

How can one tell the difference between a faulty ignition switch and a faulty barrel?

Thanks

Steve

If the key turns properly, then fault is probably with the switch. However if you need to apply an upward pressure on the key to get it to turn, then that might suggest the fault is more with the barrel.

If the key turns properly, then fault is probably with the switch. However if you need to apply an upward pressure on the key to get it to turn, then that might suggest the fault is more with the barrel.

That was my way of thinking too.

Thanks.

The only switch that is suitable is the fuel cap release (momentary non latching )

the heated seat switch is two rotating pots with end stop switches .You could try grafting the switch blank onto the fuel release switch for a stealth switch .

Can the fuel filler symbol just be rubbed off the switch? Or coat the switch in black primer?

Symbol is transparent plastic so the switch illumination works ,you can paint it over but the fuel cap switch is an end switch so is the wrong shape on the front.