Problems..today ...my felicia will not start,have installed new plugs,checked all electrical sockets,poured a little fuel into injection bellmouth,but still all it does is spin on the starter motor not a glimmer of ignition.

Have installed a new head gasket a few months back, all I can say that the cam chain is

pretty noisy, I have an idea that just recently it was getting noiser could this be the culprit?.

Mileage 102,000

Possibly the starter.

But mine sounds noisy and didnt start once.

My mechanic came and cleaned out the fuel pump and my car fired right up.

Hi there,

Your Favorit only done 50,000 miles, it's only just run in !!!,.... my felicia ....it has been so

reliable for a long time ......but nothing lasts forever, it just seems strange that not a glimmer of the engine firing.

Just discovered the odometer "sticks" a little sometimes!

One day all Skodas will have electronic speedometers !!, no chance then of sticking oddometers !!

Will call out Autonational tomorrow maybe those guys can work some magic...hopefully!.

Thanks for advice.

Any sign of petrol being delivered?

If not then would start with checking the fuel pump relay and fuse, and the crank sensor (possibly moving on to the fuel filter and the pump itself).

I guess the other thing could be the ignition pack on top of the spark plugs.

I think it's possible a stretched timing chain would put the timing out, but I would expect a slow deterioration in running (particularly at high revs under load) rather than sudden death and not starting at all. Unless the chain snapped or came adrift but from what I have read this is very rare.

First things to check:-

1) Sparks

2) Fuel

If you have both of these there will be some sound of the engine at least trying to fire.

Have just had Autonational call about the Felicia 1.3 mpi,he had a look round car and thought the problem was strange i.e the turnover on the starter motor is very fast he thinks no - compression could be problem.

Does anyone think it might have jumped on the cam chain sprocket ?i.e worn chain, Is this possibile

has anyone experienced this ?

Deflated !!:confused:

I'd expect the chain to break before it stretched enough to skip a tooth; it's not very long you see.

As for the low compression, a dry compression test is easy enough to do, and wouldn't cost much if you wanted a garage to do it. If it shows low (170 +/-20 PSI is normal IIRC), a wet test would tell you which end was causing it.

Hi there,

I have a compression tester in the shed, unused for many a year here is a chance for it to

shine.

The head gasket I replaced a few months back.......now in a perfect world you would probably get the head skimmed when you did this job, because if you looked closely you would see some evidence of pitting in one or two places......I have an idea this could be the problem,engine performance just lately had not been exactly turbo charged even in

1.3 mpi terms.

Thanks for the advice.

This relates to the non starting Felicia of 2 weeks ago, have taken the head off and close

inspection shows heavy pitting around the water channel openings.

My question is to you guys out there is.... when would a head be deemed unsuitable for skimming?, I would think that to skim my head would make head serviceable again but

the depth of pitting around water channels would still leave areas unskimmed any advice would be great.

There's usually a specification in a decent workshop manual (and in some Haynes') which says something like "Head - maximum skim 0.3mm".

Thanks for your comments, have taken head down to Gosnays and had a head skim

so no problem so far !.

The problem that remains is getting head bolt set for cylinder head and a head gasket,

Jorily is on holiday at the moment and Butts have discontinued the spares that I want

does anyone know where I can source these components ?.

Thank you from Gerry.

ps no joy at Gosnays re spares.

Dunno, but a thought has occured. If you've not sourced the gasket set yet, when you do speak to a supplier, tell them you've got a skimmed head, because they may be able to supply a thicker gasket which will avoid at least some of the issues of a raised CR.

We are back open from Tuesday, we have been to Czech on a business trip. A holiday would be nice

All up and running again, problems caused by very worn timing chain and sprockets.

Thanks for advice to all who contributed.

I don't know if this will be of any use but when my starter motor gave up the ghost it still spun but because of the poor original design it had shot out past the flywheel hence no starting and the starter sounded really fast the new one has a revised design so this cant happen anymore:thumbup:

Just a word on the non starting 1.3 mpi, started having starting problems after engine

fully warmed up for an example after a trip of 20 miles, and a stop off in Tesco come out

and engine will not start....a lot of scratching heads, but as luck would have it you can

call out RAC free of charge if parked in Tesco car park.

The RAC man gets it going in 3 or 4 minutes flat, removes electrical connectors to injectors turn the engine for a couple of seconds...it fires....stop engine and replace electrical connectors to injectors and engine fires up and is away, he recomends replacing

spark plugs which I duly did, but the same problem (non starting after warm up) persists.

Consult Haynes manual, check valves.... and even though I had set them perfectly on the

recent re-build they were all in need of adjustment....too tight.

When I had the head skimmed I removed the valves and re-fitted them after skim was done, I am guessing that once the engine was running after re-build the valves must have bedded in (collets etc) and so valve clearance settings would have changed ?.

Thankfully the car is now running fine, but the above information is worth bearing in mind after top half engine re-builds.

I'm not trying to be funny here, but have you re-checked the head bolt torques? (not applicable if this engine uses angle-tightening, unless the manual says otherwise).

Torque settings were set as per Haynes manual using a fairly old draper torque wrench.

Thanks from Silvafelicia.