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Bllody thing won't start

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I'm having a real nightmare with my vRS which I'm hoping someone may be able to help me with!

I have had my car sat on my driveway for 5 days as I've been on holiday. While I was away my mate sprayed the bumper for me.

So this morning I went to move me car so I could re fit the bumper, it fired up on fast idle as usual, then it cut out. All it does now is turn over.

It's turning over nicely but it's not even trying to start.

I've tried everything basic, checking the battery connections, put some fresh petrol in (it was low but no where near empty) and I checked all the fuses.

It still won't start, just turns over.

One last thing I will add is that on the Monday when I used it last I had a stage 1 remap done, I don't think it was this as the company that done it are a TOP outfit. No cheap e-bay remap specials.

Or do you sometimes just get a dodgy remap? They aren't open today for me to call them though.

Please someone help, it's doing my head in :(

you need to get the car checked with vagcom but I hope it's not related to the remap especially given the recent Saga of the Postal Remap by Mr Catbiscuit.

Could be a problem with the fuel pump or blocked fuel line perhaps?

I assume there are no lights on on the dash which shouln't be there.

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My mate is going to come round with his VAG com later on.

Everything seems fine mate, no lights or anything

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Right, we have now found out it has no spark.

He can't get his diagnostics to connect though.

The hunt continues :(

Immobiliser?

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I thought that, I tried both keys but with no avail.

How could I check it?

Thanks for the suggestion :)

God I hope the ECU is ok :(

No Idea how to check it without VAG COM.

It's just that a few months ago my neighbour had a flat battery on his Laguna, he charged the battery, but flatened it again try to start the car. I gave it a jump lead start and it cranked fine, but didn't fire.

I checked and found no spark & also no fuel as the plugs were dry. We closed the doors, locked the car, unlocked on the key fob and the car started first turn. I think he opened the door with the key as the battery was flat. Your problem sounds very similar.

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Thanks mate :)

The wires leading to the coil pack connectors look a bit suspect, can anyone confirm that the insulator cover should not be broken at all and that the wires should have no joins in them?

the coil pack wiring is prone to self destruct so make sure there are no shorts. Its normally the ground wire that breaks the worst. if it was the imobiliser the car would start then cut out. if it is turning over OK but not firing then when you log the faults on vag com I suspect you may have "Engine Speed Sensor" fault. if the engine speed or cranck position sensor go duff then the Fuel pump relay gives no voltage to the fuel pump. HTH

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Maybe it could all be related :( I've looked for shorts though and there is definately nothing touching.

The only reason I mention it is by looking up the only error code my mate's **** diagnostics read - 01314

So many bloody reasons for this code though

Edited by tsp

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Sorry I just saw your post mate, I didn't ignore it on purpose!

So it could be a relay problem... These cars are so complicated!

what company did the remap, and how long ago?????

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On Monday mate, about 5 miles ago :(

On Monday mate, about 5 miles ago :(

So who did it? I had a nightmare with a postal remap (which contained a checksum error) causing the car to break down leaving me, the wife, 3 young kids, two dogs and a cat stranded in Leigh delamare services for 6 hours over Easter...

Hope it's not the same company (well, actually it would be good for my court case if it was:thumbup:)

But I do feel for you buddy...

SO WHICH DID YOU GET? NO COMMS OR CHECK DTC? either way it looks like an ECU problem

01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

Possible Causes

CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module faulty

Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module

Possible Solutions

Check CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module

Check Measuring Value Blocks (MVB)

Usually Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 125+ show the current Communication Status

01314 - Engine Control Module: Check DTC Memory

Possible Causes

Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module

Possible Solutions

Check Engine Control Module for Fault Codes

Special Notes

Engine Control Module stored a Code which influences other Control Modules Functionality.

To clear this Fault Code you will need to correct the Problem in the Engine Control Module first.

VAGCOM and other similar software is nothing but a glorified multi-meter. It measures voltages and converts them to a pretty display that can be interpreted easily on the PC screen. Some people refer to computer diagnostic equipment as the 'Goon Machine'. It makes things easier, but it's not essential to carry out diagnostic checks. I know, I was an AA and then RAC patrol for 12 years, and fault diagnosis was something I did everyday.

If you have no spark you should first check that you have a battery supply voltage at the ignition coils when cranking. If you have you should then check that the coils are being switched. Both of these tasks can be done with a voltmeter, although admittedly a wiring diagram will be an enormous help to you too. IIRC the coils have four wires. Live supply. Earth, ECM switch, and Misfire detection. If there are only three then there will be no misfire detection, and if only two there will be no earth.

You can also use the meter to check whether the crankshaft sensor is working. If it isn't then the ECM doesn't know that the engine is turning over, and therefore can't do anything more. If it's not working then the fuel injectors won't switch either. Check those also with your voltmeter. The ECM will be supplied it's feed from a relay, and most likely a fuse. Check that these are in working order.

Don't be too quick to point the finger at the ECM. Everyone tends to do that but they don't fail that often......

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Johnny, I'll see what they see on Monday and then I'll report. I really don't think it's anything to do with it. I am hoping it's just a coincidence.

Karl, it was the top one. No comms. I seem to remember the ABS being mentioned though...

Railroad, thanks for that mate. I'll see if I can make any headway.

If the ECU was faulty though would everything else work? The lights are ok, wipers, horn. Basically everything but the bloody engine! Or am I wishfull thinking here...

I wouldn't be so nervous if I hadn't just forked out for a remap...

Thanks for your help everyone :)

I wouldn't be so nervous if I hadn't just forked out for a remap...

In that case I would be worried that it could be an ECM problem. The trouble with re-maps is that you just don't know what they're doing do it.

As I said before ECM failures are very rare, but those that do fail are usually due to short-circuiting or voltage spikes. Also in nearly thirty years I have never known a petrol fuel injector to be electrically faulty. Considering how many vehicles have had them over the years, and the number of times per second they switch, reliability is definitely a word that can be used here.....

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Bummer.

Thanks mate. Fingers and legs and everything else crossed then

If its no comms are you sure the ECU was plugged back in tight and the locking clips put in place? they can be a pain to locate properly. wouldnt hurt to re-seat the cables (works a lot of the time in computers as well)

If the ECU was faulty though would everything else work? The lights are ok, wipers, horn. Basically everything but the bloody engine! Or am I wishfull thinking here...

The ECU is just for the engine. lights, wipers, horn etc are different controllers.

VAGCOM and other similar software is nothing but a glorified multi-meter. It measures voltages and converts them to a pretty display that can be interpreted easily on the PC screen. Some people refer to computer diagnostic equipment as the 'Goon Machine'. It makes things easier, but it's not essential to carry out diagnostic checks. I know, I was an AA and then RAC patrol for 12 years, and fault diagnosis was something I did everyday.

If you have no spark you should first check that you have a battery supply voltage at the ignition coils when cranking. If you have you should then check that the coils are being switched. Both of these tasks can be done with a voltmeter, although admittedly a wiring diagram will be an enormous help to you too. IIRC the coils have four wires. Live supply. Earth, ECM switch, and Misfire detection. If there are only three then there will be no misfire detection, and if only two there will be no earth.

You can also use the meter to check whether the crankshaft sensor is working. If it isn't then the ECM doesn't know that the engine is turning over, and therefore can't do anything more. If it's not working then the fuel injectors won't switch either. Check those also with your voltmeter. The ECM will be supplied it's feed from a relay, and most likely a fuse. Check that these are in working order.

Don't be too quick to point the finger at the ECM. Everyone tends to do that but they don't fail that often......

The first bit did make me laugh but I have to disagree.:rofl: VAG COM is a completely different kettle of fish to a multimeter. The modern VAG car has a multitude of Computer control units on board, all capable of self diagnosis, what VAGCOM does is gives Joe Public (me:thumbup:) a cheap alternative for accessing these codes for EASY diagnosis of problems. I know that there is more to it than simply being told a part has failed and that there is often a reason a part has failed that needs to be addressed before replacing the part. But given what VW charges per diagnostic scan :thumbdwn: I'll be keeping mine!!

And the code that the OP listed does relate to the ECM and Mr Catbiscuit can relate that while ECU failure is rare these days, it does happen. Especially after a postal Remap :rotz:

:popcorn:

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The ECU is just for the engine. lights, wipers, horn etc are different controllers.

Bugger :( fingers crossed I can get to the bottom of it tommorow.

Where is the ECU on a vRS?

The first bit did make me laugh but I have to disagree.:rofl: VAG COM is a completely different kettle of fish to a multimeter. The modern VAG car has a multitude of Computer control units on board, all capable of self diagnosis, what VAGCOM does is gives Joe Public (me:thumbup:) a cheap alternative for accessing these codes for EASY diagnosis of problems. I know that there is more to it than simply being told a part has failed and that there is often a reason a part has failed that needs to be addressed before replacing the part. But given what VW charges per diagnostic scan :thumbdwn: I'll be keeping mine!!

And the code that the OP listed does relate to the ECM and Mr Catbiscuit can relate that while ECU failure is rare these days, it does happen. Especially after a postal Remap :rotz:

If you give a young child an A4 sheet of paper with some sums on it and he'll have to use his brain. Give him a calculator and all of a sudden it gets much easier because he doesn't have to think anymore. Or a computer operator dragging and dropping with Windows and someone moving files in DOS. These are the comparisons between diagnostic software and a multi-meter. Many modern technicians are using the likes of VAGCOM and don't really understand what they're doing. The fact remains there are far too many technicians whose only use for a multi-meter is as a wheel chock because they just don't know how to use the thing, and there is no part of the engine management system that can't be checked with it.

The multi-meter does not know how to lie. It does much the same as VAGCOM, you just have to be able to interpret what it says. VAGCOM does have features such as snapshot and graphs with a meter does not have. These are very useful, but are of no use to someone who doesn't know what they mean......

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