I was going to post this in Basil's previous EGR thread but since I did a few other bits I thought I'd put them all in one place. Thankfully I had one of my mates to help me out as Im a bit cack handed with the old car maintenance so yesterday I removed manifold and cleaned it with an entire can of carb cleaner - extremely messy job but with 70 k on the clock there was at leat 3-4 mm of caked on black sludge! removed EGR valve and replaced with Jabba EGR Bypass pipe, connected up a boost gauge to EGR take-off adding a platic regulator valve to the boost tubing, replaced upper boost pipe with S/S pipe and added a red silicone elbow and jubilee clipped all pipework. Lastly I did the Elephant hose CCV mod - I was going to vent this to atmosphere but decided to make a makeshift catch can until I buy a proper one utislising the finest of 2pt milk cartons :eek: Note the Diet coke bottle top!

Only thing is I've stupidly bought the wrong boost gauge so will have to swap this over for a 3bar one as its bouncing off the scale on full boost!

All in all the car seems much smoother throught the rev range and I cant say I notice much shudder on shut down! all in all I'm really happy with it :D:D

Edit: Forgot to mention there is considerably less smoke when under heavy acceleration as well.

I had to wrap the boost tubing in tin foil until I get it clipped up properly as it popped off with the heat from EGR/Manifold where the regulator valve joins, you can just see it in the corner of the below pic (its blue)

A bit pikey I know but is such a good fit with a little bit of epoxy for good measure!

This was after I drove Sheffield to London last night, there was quite a bit of steam as well from the catch can/milk carton but I believe this is normal

I put the wiring and boost tube through the air vent so I wouldnt have to drill holes in the dash, however I feel a bit stupid for buying the wrong gauge but I should be able to return it!

Thanks to Briskoda and its members for all the threads I'd read on the above subjects which helped me to do the work, especially where removing the manifold is concerned!

Any comments welcome

Edited 20 July, 200916 yr by geordie_21
more info

If you want a prefect fit bung for the blanked off inlet pipe where the PCV hose used to go, buy a valve grinding tool (wooden stick with two rubber cups on each end) from A1 motor stores. Remove one of the rubber cups, and it's a prefect fit, with a flared end so it can't get sucked into the inlet manifold.

I would be wary of using araldite to hold that coke cap in place. If the glue breaks up over time and bit gets sucked into the inlet manifold, it could go anywhere.

I used a black rubber bung from BNQ, the type you put on chair ends to stop them scuffing floors.

I think it was 25mm, a very snug fit

So, do you now have a engine management light with the lack of EGR? If so, how will you get rid of it? I'm only asking because I am worried about the sludge that the EGR generates and need this engine to run well for a *long* time...

Also, how much oil is actually dumped in this way? How often do you think you'll have to empty the bottle?

So, do you now have a engine management light with the lack of EGR? If so, how will you get rid of it? I'm only asking because I am worried about the sludge that the EGR generates and need this engine to run well for a *long* time...

Also, how much oil is actually dumped in this way? How often do you think you'll have to empty the bottle?

Engine light has to be mapped out by a tuning company. Amount of oil that comes from the PCV rocker breather is minimal, you can get catch cans with view window to see when it needs emptied.

Removing the EGR increases combustion temperatures, so the long term effects could in theory cause valve damage. Depends how much tolerance the designers built into the engine components. They did however desing the engine to run an EGR system. I would think MPG would also suffer very slightly.

You can fit the PCV hose mod, and leave the EGR in place (means you also retain the anti-shudder valve). If you clean the EGR and inlet manifold while doing the catch can mod, all you will get after rebuild, is a gradual build up of soot, without the oily mess. Most of this soot will be drawn into the engine and burnt off.

Slightly off topic but...

When you fitted the PD160 did you find it vibrated on anything?

Fitted mine the other day and it vibrates on the gear selector thing below it :(

Had to take it off, got to find a way to adjust it somehow...

I would be wary of using araldite to hold that coke cap in place. If the glue breaks up over time and bit gets sucked into the inlet manifold, it could go anywhere.

Thanks MoggyTech, the bottle top is a perfect fit for blanking off the inlet pipe! It fits over the inlet so I think it would be impossible for this to get sucked in to the manifold. I put a little Araldite on the outside of the inlet pipe just to make sure. I saw in another thread someone else used exactly the same thing so thought I'd give it a try.

So, do you now have a engine management light with the lack of EGR? If so, how will you get rid of it? I'm only asking because I am worried about the sludge that the EGR generates and need this engine to run well for a *long* time...

Also, how much oil is actually dumped in this way? How often do you think you'll have to empty the bottle?

My CEL light came on after 30 miles, Im not sure on the intricacies of getting this removed other than its a 'mapping' job - I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and roughly how much I can expect to pay to get this done?

Oil in the catch can is minimal, I have only done about 170 miles with this mod and there is no oil in the base just what you can see around the breather holes (vapour). As MoggyTech has said you can get catch tanks with a level on the side so you can see how much fluid is in there. Overall I was suprised how much sludge had built up on my manifold so I'm pleased I've done this.

Slightly off topic but...

When you fitted the PD160 did you find it vibrated on anything?

Fitted mine the other day and it vibrates on the gear selector thing below it :(

Had to take it off, got to find a way to adjust it somehow...

I've had my PD160 fitted for about a year now and not had any problems with it rubbing / vibrating. I did however cable tie a couple of pipes which fell alongside to stop them rubbing and not had any problems at all.

So has anyone got any info on who can map out my CEL light, is it just a case of turning the EGR value down in Vag Com or do you have to get a tuning company or mapper to do it? Anyone actually had this done?

Thanks, John

Engine light has to be mapped out by a tuning company. Amount of oil that comes from the PCV rocker breather is minimal, you can get catch cans with view window to see when it needs emptied.

Removing the EGR increases combustion temperatures, so the long term effects could in theory cause valve damage. Depends how much tolerance the designers built into the engine components. They did however desing the engine to run an EGR system. I would think MPG would also suffer very slightly.

You can fit the PCV hose mod, and leave the EGR in place (means you also retain the anti-shudder valve). If you clean the EGR and inlet manifold while doing the catch can mod, all you will get after rebuild, is a gradual build up of soot, without the oily mess. Most of this soot will be drawn into the engine and burnt off.

This sounds like an interesting way forward for me...

I would think MPG would also suffer very slightly.

I clocked 160 miles this morning and my average mpg was 52.9 according to the trip computer. I would say I'm probably about 4mpg down since fitting the EGR bypass pipe so not too bad overall given what I to consider the benefits.

I'm still trying to find out about the CEL light it's triggered, does anyone know if it can be removed with VagCom and is my dealer likely to entertain this?

Thanks

is there a tutorial for cleaning the EGR valve?

wouldnt mind giving that a go..

is there a tutorial for cleaning the EGR valve?

wouldnt mind giving that a go..

Dont think so bud, but if you're only removing the EGR valve it simply bolts on and off.

The only thing which makes removing the manifold tricky is the limited space.

There is a bit more detailed info here http://briskoda.net/maintenance-performance/intake-manifold-cleaned-egr-delete-pipe-fitted-wow/94806/ which I kind of used.

John

I don't think removing the EGR should reduce your MPG as it's recirculating a percentage of your exhaust gas to reduce combustion temperatures which in-turn reduces NOx emissions.

If the car is getting more oxygen per cycle then you should get a more complete burn which in theory should give you more power for the same amount of fuel injected.

I'm still trying to find out about the CEL light it's triggered, does anyone know if it can be removed with VagCom and is my dealer likely to entertain this?

Thanks

Needs to be 'mapped' out by a tuner, it cannot be disabled with VAGCOM mate.

I don't think removing the EGR should reduce your MPG as it's recirculating a percentage of your exhaust gas to reduce combustion temperatures which in-turn reduces NOx emissions.

If the car is getting more oxygen per cycle then you should get a more complete burn which in theory should give you more power for the same amount of fuel injected.

Interesting Phil When not motorway driving I do seem to be down slightly on mpg (admittedly there's so many variables) however I wasn't expecting this mod to reduce my mpg so you could be right! This morning I did about a 150mile journey down the M1 and averaged (according to trip computer) 52.9 mpg which I was happy with given I was probably 80+mph all the way.

On the performance front its definitely better and alot smoother, I did remove about 4mm of sludge from the manifold and the EGR valve itself was quite sticky so surely this can only be a good thing! Not sure how much performance increase is due to EGR bypass though as I replaced boost pipes and OEM clips so could of sealed a boost leak I didnt know about however it all helps and certainly feels better I'm also getting less smoke which I hadn't even thought about before doing this mod so that's an added bonus

John

Needs to be 'mapped' out by a tuner, it cannot be disabled with VAGCOM mate.

Thanks, guess I'll just have to call around then and see who can do it., there does'nt seem to be much talk on here yet of people who can map this out! I think Unit 18 can do it which is about an hour from me which is possible if there's no one local!

John

Just ordered a VDO 3.0 bar boost gauage from Merlin Motorsports so should do the job!

VDO COCKPIT VISION TURBO BOOST GAUGE 3 BAR - 150015001

They're not in stock till the end of this week so will get some pics up when it arrives. Overall I had real diffculty finding a suitable gauge, this is about the only 3 bar mechanical gauge I could find with no negative boost.

John

im thing of fitting a boost gauge, i see how you have gone through the air vent, but once in the engine bay, what do you connect the 2 tubes too? ive never had a turbo car before so am a complete novice, i have a egr valve leak and after seeing your mod im gonna do the same if i cant get it done un warranty.

were did you get the red L bend and stainless steel pipe from ? also the pipe that replaces the one with the egr valve on?

im thing of fitting a boost gauge, i see how you have gone through the air vent, but once in the engine bay, what do you connect the 2 tubes too? ive never had a turbo car before so am a complete novice, i have a egr valve leak and after seeing your mod im gonna do the same if i cant get it done un warranty.

were did you get the red L bend and stainless steel pipe from ? also the pipe that replaces the one with the egr valve on?

Hi,

I just posted on your thread suggesting you do this mod, you need to buy an EGR bypass pipe, there are two I know of - an Allard and the Jabba Sport Bypass pipe you can see in my pics (give them a call - costs about £50 make sure you tell them you want the take off nipple). This has a boost take off nipple which means you dont have to tap into your boost tube or drill the manifold. 3mm tube comes straight off the bypass pipe take off nipple and threads into the cabin behind the glovebox. Once inside you can feed behind the centre console witohut removing any dash quite easy. I took the fuse box cover off and drilled a small hole into the air vent pipe feeding the pipe up and through the vent. The other (black) tube you can see is the electrics but am yet to connect this up as I bought the wrong gauge so am waiting till the weekend to fit my new VDO one.

The silicone 75mm 90 degree elbow I bought is from Auto Silicone Hoses Auto Performance Silicone Hoses cheapest I could find and IMO is really good quality.

The Stainless Steel boost pipe isnt essential but gets rid of the poor OEM clips, I bought this from VRS Dovit who is a member on here - send him a PM and he'll sort one out for you.

It's also worth you venting your crankcase so you only have clean air entering your engine and no sludgy build up on manifold etc, forum member Basil wrote a thread called Elephant hose CCV Mod for full details. Its quite a cheap mod though.

Only downside is, removing the EGR will throw up your CEL light and the only option is to have it mapped out, at present I'm just scanning mine with Vag Com to keep an eye on it and will get this mapped out when I buy an exhaust system in the near future in order to get the most out of the custom map.

John:)

I've done an EGR blank off before on a mates car, but havn't removed the manifold before.

How hard a job is it? Just a case of having girly fingers or is it a real pain in the rear end?

I've done an EGR blank off before on a mates car, but havn't removed the manifold before.

How hard a job is it? Just a case of having girly fingers or is it a real pain in the rear end?

Girly fingers are a bonus, IIRC there's 6 bolts and off it comes. Simple job but limited space makes it tricky