Apologies if this is covered else ware, but im looking into a Octavia vRS, and i cant seem to find anywhere there is a list of things to look out for, i work for VW and assume its the same as a golf/passat, ie wishbone bushes, anti roll bar bushes, etc, can anyone give me an idea of what to look out for?

do they rust? What about water leaks etc?

Many thanks

Russ

Rad mounts and a rusty tail gate on an estate and, er, thats about it

Timing belt has been done.

Do rad mounts fail? Are they the normal rubber block type things?

Cheers guys, any more?

Water leaking in boot from hose popping off the rear wash/wipe

Faulty CD multichanger

Problems with central locking

Front ARB corroded under rubber sleeves

Noisy starter motor, noisy secondary air pump

Thats all I can think of at the moment. As AmateurStuntman said the most important thing is cambelt and water pump, has to be done every 4 years or 60k whichever comes first.

Sounds pretty much the same as the VW's matey, what problems do you get with the central locking?

Do a search on here, it seems to come up every other week!

People find they can't unlock the car with the remote, or certain doors won't unlock.

It's either a problem with the central convenience unit or the locking modules in the doors, moisture gets into them or they need re-soldering.

I think it's also a common problem across the VAG range as there was a guide on the Mk4 Golf forums on how to re-solder the locking modules.

Touch wood I've not had any central locking problems with mine but the husband of one of the girls I work with had central locking problems on his and was quoted something like £500-600 to sort it out

And how about the clutch? :thumbdwn:

Do a search on here, it seems to come up every other week!

People find they can't unlock the car with the remote, or certain doors won't unlock.

It's either a problem with the central convenience unit or the locking modules in the doors, moisture gets into them or they need re-soldering.

I think it's also a common problem across the VAG range as there was a guide on the Mk4 Golf forums on how to re-solder the locking modules.

Touch wood I've not had any central locking problems with mine but the husband of one of the girls I work with had central locking problems on his and was quoted something like £500-600 to sort it out

Hmm, we don't see many CCU go wrong on the Golfs, more either the fobs or the door locks them selfs, though easy to replace and not too expensive

On the Passats the CCU is a big problem, water runs down past the pollen filter due to the lid leaking, runs down the vents and makes the CCU sit in a puddle lol, in fact we are doing on in the workshop today

Nothing wrong with the clutches as far as I know.... it's generally a driver related problem!

My clutch is still going very strong at 103,000miles, and I expect it to last for the life of the car.

Ha lol, agreed there, i find they tend to last quite well.

What suspension set up does the Octavia have? Its not the 4 link set up like the passat is it? Please say it isn't they are horrid!

Sorry for all the newbie questions

It's a normal mk4 golf type setup, but with an anti-roll bar and drop link assembly like the R32/TT has (long drop links connecting to the struts rather than the wishbones).

Ah thank you mate, im just trying to prepare myself when i look at one lol

Listen for any knocking coming from the front box when driving straight. The diff is very weak and if it goes it means a new box.

Coils go alot to.

Central locking as mentioned above by Jamie. Dont ask! It never ends just different bits need replacing!

Ha lol fair do's fella's ,thank you for all the tips so far!

I would also say clutch, especially if it's modded (a spirited drive should reveal any problems...just floor it in 5th). Second thing I would look out for (and I know this is not common, but it IS expensive to fix) is head gasket problems: coolant level, coolant color, oil on dipstick, ideal would be if you could perform a block test before buying as this will tell you for sure (a competent mechanic will know what this is).

I've also had the radiator mounts gone (rattling sounds and the radiator was physically moving), DV was broken (fluttering sound when letting off the throttle), MAF went (I don't know of an easy to test way except some vag-com logs), some hoses are prone to cracking (Y-hose on top-right of the engine is usually faulty and it's easy to look at), bushes (visual inspection once you get the car up on something).

These are all things I would NOW look out for if buying a vrs (or 1.8T)

Wow thanks matey, im lucky enough to work for VW and i know our workshop systems can read Skoda's and i can take one with me , so i can plug it in and see, i can also take the good old pressure tester ( the one to fix to the coolant bottle and pump and check the guage) so im lucky enough to have the tools and know how to use them lol, so the list goes:

Check if Timing belt has been done.

Check for Water leaking in boot from hose popping off the rear wash/wipe

Check for Faulty CD multichanger

Look for Problems with central locking

Check for Front ARB corroded under rubber sleeves

Noisy starter motor, noisy secondary air pump

Check for clutch wear

head gasket problems: coolant level, coolant color, oil on dipstick

Check DV (fluttering sound when letting off the throttle),

MAF

Plus the usual used car checks

Diff eh?

I didn't know it was a common fault but mine was on the way out.

There was backlash in it.

It is being replaced with a Quaife unit but they seem to have made a right fist of the job.

One way to tell if the MAF is duff is by unplugging it, then the car runs on a default set of values. If it runs better with the MAF unplugged then it's a new MAF on the cards

The coilpacks are usually pretty obvious when they go, the car is practically undriveable (and shouldn't be driven as the unburnt fuel will ruin the cat). You can find which coilpack is broken by unplugging them one by one with the engine running. The engine sound should change with each one you unplug, if you unplug one and the sound doesn't change then thats the broken one.

I'll make a note of all these things and put a buying guide together as a sticky on here

Thats what i was about to sujjest,making this sticky mate lol

Well sounds like its all the same as the VW's then, which is a relief as i have got nearly 10 years worth of experience with them

Diff eh?

I didn't know it was a common fault but mine was on the way out.

There was backlash in it.

It is being replaced with a Quaife unit but they seem to have made a right fist of the job.

Yes its very common. People ignore the knocking but its serious and dangerous. My car locked up the front wheels while doing 60. I was on a race track at the time mind.

The Quaife is slightly better but the pelloquin comes with a handy fitting kit to make things easy. I'm waiting on a pelloquin from Jabba as we speek. Can't wait!!

Well, my gearbox is knackered in a way that nobody can understand.

By process of elimination it must be the new diff that is wrong but we will check by putting the old diff back in and seeing if it is still noisy.

Then we will have to buy a second hand gearbox and replace one part at a time until we find the broken one.

No car for my holiday...

All this about the DIff.

I've been knocking around here 3.5 years and I don't think I've ever heard of a diff letting go, and I think I can remember one head gasket.

All a bit new too me, but I may be wrong lol

All this about the DIff.

I've been knocking around here 3.5 years and I don't think I've ever heard of a diff letting go, and I think I can remember one head gasket.

All a bit new too me, but I may be wrong lol

:iagree: